What's up everyone. Thanks for the add! But I can definitely use some help if anyone can.

Well, before I get started, I have done the research and found very little that meets my issue. Some posts have some of what's going on with my truck and others nothing close.

So, here we go. With the warm weather, I decided I was going to finally rebuild the top half of my 2001 f150 (170k) with the 4.6 2v, mainly because I was blowing blue smoke out the tail pipe as if the truck was doing a burn out. All went smooth including the valve job. Although my timing chain guides were almost completely gone, but the guides and tensioned were replaced. So on top of that, I replaced the injectors, plugs, coil packs and it ran really rough. Within the few minutes it was running, the catalytic converter on the passenger side was red hot and popping. I turned the truck off and did some research. I disconnected the y-pipe, looked down it and nothing fell down there (I did not get a good look at the honey comb) put the old coil packs and plugs on and still bucking and missing. Pulled each coil pack one at a time and the truck still sounded the same. Pulled each plug and some showed signs that they were working, the others looked like they didn't fire at all. Checked and cleaned the connections, same thing. What are the odds that 16 coil packs and plugs are bad or intermittent? Extremely unlikely. So, I did some more research and saw something about checking the cam sensor. Tested and it was bad. Replaced it, still the same. Bucking and missing like I'm riding a bull. I've checked my vacuum lines, tested what i could with just a multi meter (all 8 coil packs tested at 1-3 volts dc), even pulled the valve covers to make sure a valve or a spring wasn't broken and here I am. With a truck that won't run right.

Any help or thoughts or pointing me in the right direction would be awesome.

And a side note, besides the emense amount of blue smoke before tearing the motor down, the truck ran good.

 

Also, I did double check the timing. I marked them with paint markers before I removed them and lined them back up afterwards. Spun the crank and after a few turns they line back up. No oil in the antifreeze or vise versa. I've followed every torque spec to the manual too. I'm at a loss and really need to get my truck running. Thank you!

 

How about the injectors?


Any codes?

 

I'm sorry. I competition forgot the codes. P0135 and p0155. Bank 1 sensor 1 heat circuit, bank 2 sensor 1 heat circuit. No other codes. I've replaced the injectors. Same thing.

 

Those codes will have an effect on fuel control until they get up to temp.


I understand that you did replace the injectors.
But are they the correct ones?
Are they sticking/sluggish?
You apparently switched back to the old coils to see if that was the problem.
How about switching back to the old injectors to see if that was the problem?


Does your scan tool allow you to run KOEO tests?
Some years will do a resistance check of the injector circuitry from the PCM.
But it sounds to me like you may have a stuck injector or few. (Guess!)

 

I did switch back to the old injectors and still had the same issue. The new ones were oem replacement and had the sane part numbers stamped on them as the old ones. I run Torque on my phone for my scan tool using a Bluetooth scan tool obd2 adapter.

 

Will your scan tool display Mode $6 data? TID $53 to see where the misfires are?
If they seem to be mostly on bank #1, bank #1 may be out of time? :-(
Can you measure intake manifold vacuum when it is running?

 

I'm not sure if it can pin point the misfire, but I can see live read outs such as o2 sensor readings and tps readings and such. I'll have to go rent a vacuum meter and hook it up.

 

I did some research on the codes it threw. The p0135 and p0155 mean there's a short or bad ground somewhere in the air/fuel system somewhere. I'm going to run a jumper ground to the heads to see if I can find something there. Thoughts?

 

Your thread says misfire and red converters
The codes tell you the Ox sensor heater circuits for both banks are open.
The codes will not make the converters red.
There are likely two different issues.
The converter issue is cylinder misfires allowing raw unburnt gas to burn in the hot cats.
When that happens the cat substrate melts and block up the exhaust flow.
Very often the rear Ox Sensor tips melt.
It becomes an expensive mess to repair
First thing is to get all misfires solved first before new cats are installed.
Good luck.

 

I doubt the rear o2 sensors were melted. They're a pretty good distance from the cats. But I do agree with not installing the new cats until I solve the misfire. Thank you. I'm going to go back to the basics in this one. Starting with checking the timing.

 

so I found a ford service builtin on timing the 2v 4.6/5.4 and it turns out I may be 1 or 2 teeth off on the timing. Which is weird because I marked the chains before taking them off. I wonder if, with the old timing guides and tensioners worn so badly that the chain jumped tooth and I marked it that way thinking it was correct. First thing Thursday, because I'm in class for today and tomorrow, I'm going to remove the timing chain, inspect it and put it back on following the service builtin. Thanks again for the help.

 

The Torque app will certainly read your individual cylinder misfire counts. Look in the Test Results section for TID$53 data. As I best recall, the data is only there on a per-drive cycle basis (gets cleared if you turn the ignition off) and the data accumulation only starts after the PCM enters closed loop operation. This presumes an 01.

 

So I found 2 different service bulletins regarding the timing marks located on the chains. One states the cam timing marks go between the two copper plated chains and the other states it goes on the copper plated chain. If it's the second one, my timing is correct. If it's the first, my timing is off by one chain link on both sides. Which one is it?

 

On the 4.6 the mark on the cam sprocket goes on the copper link.
(If you have two copper links together, you have a 5.4 chain.)