I restored my Ford Recirculating heater and now it leaks. See what happens when ya clean stuff. It didn't leak before. Guess I'll be calling the radiator shops tomorrow to see who can re-core it.



It had the original 1952 dated core so I can't really complain. I'd rather find the leak now than after paint and interior.

I'll post up what it costs IF I can get it done.

 

The most common failure is the solder on the connections to the tank, you may luck out.

 

If that's the case Ross I'll break out the torch. Thanks for the heads up.

 

I have the same heater. Located a leak with one of the hose bibs that pass thru the firewall.........had a local welder braze the little pin hole............good luck.
Do you still run the heater on 6 volt or converted it to 12V?

 

My truck is still 6 volt but, will be 12 volt soon so it has a 12 volt motor in it.

 

I'm going to have to pressurize it and see where the leak is. The radiator shop said there is a Ford core that might work and it will be over $100. If they have to make a core it will be over $200!

 

Check this past thread on the subject,with a list of heater core size and cross references:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10833934

 

Thanks Ross, Awesome info there!

I just made up a pressure test kit and found I have two leaks at the tank to core solder joint.

I'm going to break out the torch and see if I can fix it. The radiator shop said $30 so if I can't get it, I'll be driving across town.

 

I have the same heater in my truck and after two years of driving my core went bad. I went to O'reilly's and matched this heater core to mine the outlets were close but not exact. The core was the same size I made it work with little effort. It is brass.

 

Thanks for the alternative core info. It lists as aluminum at my local O'Reilly's and it is for a Ford E-350 REAR heater core for those interested. Many years from 1996 up.

Rock Auto lists several manufacturers also. Thanks this helps!

 

Looks like it is the same 94783 number for several brands. Also looks like it can be either Brass or aluminum so verify before you buy if it matters to you. Also make sure to get the REAR one. It has straight tubes where the front tubes are curved to the side.

Thanks again Ibuildmyown! It is the same price to buy new as it is to repair my original.

 

OK, I wasn't going to pay a shop $30 to solder my tank seam so I gave it another shot. Actually three tries to get it sealed up. Here's some pics.

Since Ibuildmyown posted up an alternative core I ordered a copper/brass one for $30 and free shipping. I will hold off putting my old core in and let you guys know how well the alternative fits when I get it.

 

Clever! BTW your radiator cap should be a 4 psi unit, unless your radiator is a repro?

 

Thanks Ross. I put a 7 lb cap on.

 

OK, I said I would show the "substitute" core when I got it. Many are aluminum so be careful what you order if you go this route.

It does fit the box but, it's thinner so shim it up with weatherstrip. The tubes are spaced different so you can either carefully bend them, elongate the holes in the box and firewall or re-solder it slightly over.

So it IS a cheap alternative if you cant fix yours or find an original. Being thinner it PROBABLY doesn't put out as much heat as the original. I got mine fixed so I went back in with my original. The new one will be my backup.