i will, going to start on it tomorrow after a little nap coming off nightshift

no i havent..Its been a rough week for me i came off nights last Wed. and my wife was leaving for work told me her car was acting funny i used my SCT X3 to look up trouble codes found none jumped off car drove down the road and heard my tuner slide off the roof and i pulled over to grab it and i was walking to it and seen a car threw my hands up pointed at it and the car hit it.. So im stuck in SRL+ tune iv already contacted GH tuning they said buy tuner from them they will Rewrite files for free and iv contacted SCT to get a recovery file both companys have been great a real person answers and quick response from emails and wife felt bad and paid half for new tuner so thank god i married a hardworking woman...lol

 

You steer to what you're looking at. Animals, trees, telephone poles, and tuners. Take note, never point to yourself.

 

Alright here is an update i spent all weekend flushing and draining, flushing and draining (backflush oil cooler too, with block drain open) saw some fine particles and alot of foam after a couple distilled water flushes and a good bit of miles on the truck everything was running clear. I installed the coolant filter kit replaced lower and upper radiator hose clamps, poured about 3 gallons of rotella elc into thermostat hole replaced mishimoto low temp Tstat with a factory ford 192* then added about a poured about half gallon of coolant in then topped off with distilled water which wasnt that much. i drove it around temps looked great EOT 200* ECT 194* got down on it once up to temp and it puked once i think it may have been overfilled a little. After a couple times relieving pressure the level dropped to bottom of tank assuming air pockets added just a hair of coolant and drove back home which was about 5 miles away.. SOOO this morning i decided to drive the truck to work which is about 50 miles away and i noticed half way there my ECT would stay around 196* and then fall to 186* ECT stayed around 205* sometimes up to 210* delta aways within 15* but the ECT kept going to 196* then drop to 186* with some heat lost in cab as soon as it would go back up heat came back.. i got out released pressure and went on seems to help some but still same number got on it a couple times ECT would reach 202* but quickly drop back to 186* a released pressure a couple more times and then about 5 miles from work i loosened the cap and drove easily and then tighten when at work ECT seems to steady out some but still the temp drop to 186*... im kinda lost now..

 

What was the resulting coolant level after that drive?

Is the coolant level dropping?

Did you flush with Restore?

Do you still have tunes installed? Or stock?

 

Coolant level was the same didnt lose any on the ride to work and boost hit 22psi a couple times

yes i flushed with restore didnt use the restore+.

and yes still have GHs SRL+ installed due to waiting on SCT to send me a recovery file for stock.

 

What brand cap did you use on the degas when you replaced it?

 

As long as you have tunes installed you are floating the heads.

Based upon the heat/cool cycle you have described, you might want to visually inspect the impeller on the water pump, possibly replace - same goes for the radiator. Something to do with coolant flow is causing that cycle.

Another possibility is your Scangage is not telling the full truth, though that is rare.

 

Stant cap from advance auto as only thing open that time of night.. im wondering if my degas bottle has a crack in the bottom were hose goes in

 

im not able to have a signature yet but i am studded heads have been decked and magnifluxed replaced with factory gaskets egr removed and iv been tuned for about 60k miles.. Water pump was just replaced 2 months ago with BPD water pump.. not saying it couldnt have gone bad... iv thought maybe radiator could be clogged but water at bottom is cooler than water at top so seems to be cooling and moving water properly something i did notice i cant remember if iv always never had it but the small grey vacuum hose coming from the heater hose with the vacuum activated valve i dont hvae that hose there..

 

found out yesterday its either blown HGs or cracked head...

 

I think I've got the same issue. I feel your pain

 

Sorry to hear. What's the basis for that conclusion?

 

gases in degas bottle and bubbles during test..

 

said worst case id buy new OEM heads and labor and parts reusing my arp studs looking at $5500-$6000...