Replacing Wheel Studs
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Replacing Wheel Studs
Hello Everyone, 1992 F150 XLT Lariat (Front disc, rear drum)
Today while getting a balance and rotate at Costco, the worker told me he could only get 3 of 5 lugnuts on my Driver Rear wheel. Having experience as a tire technician I went in and tried myself. I knew 1 was completely stripped when I bought the truck but the 2nd one took me by surprise. If i'm honest, the last time i put on the 4th one it went on pretty hard and I probably stripped it.
Costco paid for my tow home and gave me a ride home free of charge.
I have no experience replacing wheel studs, but i bought this truck to learn on. Can anyone give me a difficulty level for this type of job? would the rear have enough clearance to press the studs out and fit new ones on without removing more than the drum rotor?
Today while getting a balance and rotate at Costco, the worker told me he could only get 3 of 5 lugnuts on my Driver Rear wheel. Having experience as a tire technician I went in and tried myself. I knew 1 was completely stripped when I bought the truck but the 2nd one took me by surprise. If i'm honest, the last time i put on the 4th one it went on pretty hard and I probably stripped it.
Costco paid for my tow home and gave me a ride home free of charge.
I have no experience replacing wheel studs, but i bought this truck to learn on. Can anyone give me a difficulty level for this type of job? would the rear have enough clearance to press the studs out and fit new ones on without removing more than the drum rotor?
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Joined: Apr 2015
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From: Boston, KY
I'm getting ready to do all of mine. Previous owner probably used an impact gun to crank them tight, so the threads are all galled.
They just hammer out - get a BFH or (ideally) an impact hammer. Not sure if there is enough clearance to cleanly knock them out (should be) but if not, you could always knock it loose, then cut the stud off and push the back piece out.
Get the new studs seated before you put your wheel back on by putting on a few washers and torqueing down a lug nut. Don't use the wheel installation to seat the stud.
These trucks are great for learning. I had never pulled a transmission, rebuilt an engine, or done anything much more than suspension work before I got my truck. Have fun!
They just hammer out - get a BFH or (ideally) an impact hammer. Not sure if there is enough clearance to cleanly knock them out (should be) but if not, you could always knock it loose, then cut the stud off and push the back piece out.
Get the new studs seated before you put your wheel back on by putting on a few washers and torqueing down a lug nut. Don't use the wheel installation to seat the stud.
These trucks are great for learning. I had never pulled a transmission, rebuilt an engine, or done anything much more than suspension work before I got my truck. Have fun!
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Thanks buddy! I've watched a couple of youtube tutorials but I was skeptical about how simple it looked. Should be an interesting weekend project!'
Any recommendation on a spacer to use? I see they sell ones for the job, but they seem a bit pricey for something so simple
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-W...ct_top?ie=UTF8
Any recommendation on a spacer to use? I see they sell ones for the job, but they seem a bit pricey for something so simple
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-W...ct_top?ie=UTF8
5th Wheeling
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Rent a C clamp style ball joint press from autozone/oreillys and press them out with the drum and hardware off. There is a cutout that allows enough space to fit the back end of the press behind the stud. This is the factory procedure from my Factory Service Manual. Don't hammer them out as that puts shock thrust loading into your wheel bearings and differential gear sets which is bad.
The spacer when installing should be greased washers to provide a rudimentary thrust bearing while you torque the stud through to prevent turning the stud and stripping the splines, retorque every 50mi for the first 1-200mi.
The spacer when installing should be greased washers to provide a rudimentary thrust bearing while you torque the stud through to prevent turning the stud and stripping the splines, retorque every 50mi for the first 1-200mi.
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