No wts no start ideas???
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 30
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No wts no start ideas???
My first Deisel can use all the help I can get!! I have a 2001 7.3 480.000 on it (by the way is that considered high) I had a bully dog installed but have since uninstalled. Was running fine then just quit no spit no sputter just nothing. Bully dog read oil temp defueling. Got it in n garage had two qts to much oil in it got that straightened out uninstalled the BD (has a new icp) now when you turn the key on no wts and won't start unplugged fuel bowl heater checked all fuses. When I crank it oil press comes up maybe slight tach movment. No check engine light. Let it sit 4 awhile with batt unhooked (charging) hooked them backup turned key wts came on started ran 4-5 sec died. Turn key to on no wts no start. Have moved wires around unplugged and plugged in connections bully dog did communicate with pcm when uninstalled. I am now lost would appreciate any help fellas
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,353
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
There are tests that you can perform with a multi-meter and test for voltage when there is supposed to be, perform a quick search and you should be enlightened.
Also, you can use a pair of insulated pliers and short the 2 large terminals together for a short period making the connection manually. I would only do this as a last resort after testing the GPR though.
These engines/trucks are notorious for being very picky about sensors that are not OEM or International.
Also, you can use a pair of insulated pliers and short the 2 large terminals together for a short period making the connection manually. I would only do this as a last resort after testing the GPR though.
These engines/trucks are notorious for being very picky about sensors that are not OEM or International.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
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From: BoCoMo
Depends on how it has been treated. I have driven 7.3 vans with more than 650,000 miles on them.
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,548
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
easiest way to test the glow plug relay. open hood and place volt meter on top of engine.
turn key to run position and hop out to under hood and test the large terminals on the glow plug relay. both should have 12 volts. if only one does, there is a possibility the relay is bad. on the small terminals, one will have 12 volts and the other is the ground to turn the relay on. if you have power to one large and one small terminal, ground out the small one with no power. if the relay clicks and then sends power to the other large terminal, the relay is good . if it does not, the relay is bad.
turn key to run position and hop out to under hood and test the large terminals on the glow plug relay. both should have 12 volts. if only one does, there is a possibility the relay is bad. on the small terminals, one will have 12 volts and the other is the ground to turn the relay on. if you have power to one large and one small terminal, ground out the small one with no power. if the relay clicks and then sends power to the other large terminal, the relay is good . if it does not, the relay is bad.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,712
Likes: 107
From: BoCoMo
easiest way to test the glow plug relay. open hood and place volt meter on top of engine.
turn key to run position and hop out to under hood and test the large terminals on the glow plug relay. both should have 12 volts. if only one does, there is a possibility the relay is bad. on the small terminals, one will have 12 volts and the other is the ground to turn the relay on. if you have power to one large and one small terminal, ground out the small one with no power. if the relay clicks and then sends power to the other large terminal, the relay is good . if it does not, the relay is bad.
turn key to run position and hop out to under hood and test the large terminals on the glow plug relay. both should have 12 volts. if only one does, there is a possibility the relay is bad. on the small terminals, one will have 12 volts and the other is the ground to turn the relay on. if you have power to one large and one small terminal, ground out the small one with no power. if the relay clicks and then sends power to the other large terminal, the relay is good . if it does not, the relay is bad.
I am a little more lazy than that, about opening the hood to see if the GPR/Alternator is working correctly. I have one of these from wallyworld
Sears.com Bargains&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
plug in before turning on key....
should have over 12 volts
turn key on 'wait to start'.
if GPS comes on, voltage will drop to around 11-11.5 v.
if GPS does not come on, voltage will stay at over 12v.
if voltage drops below 10.5v because of bad batts, truck will not start.
(need over 10.5v to start)
start your truck....
voltage will remain around 11-11.5v while GPS is on
when GPS shuts off while the truck is running...
The voltage will slowly rise to the out put of the Alternator (around 13.5v)
The 12v plug in meter will tell you a lot about what is going on is a short time frame.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 545
Likes: 2
From: SGV SoCal
Hey, No WTS light! I would try swapping the relays around IDM, PCM, FP. I remember seeing the WTS light even if the engine is warm, it just cycles off sooner. It could be the computer is not starting up correctly.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 979
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver
It is possible that the oil temp sensor is going bad. The PCM relies on getting solid readings from all the sensors that are connected to it. If it sees flaky readings, a default decision could be to shutdown. The EOT sensor(engine oil temp) is not that expensive and is involved in how the PCM runs the engine all the time, especially since there is no coolant sensor connected to the PCM. The dash coolant temp indication is a different sensor and not connected to the PCM.
Larry
Larry