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I bought the internal seal kit. Well worth doing I think. So much crud/carbon in the needle and nozzle. I am surprised at how much gummy stuff comes through the "fuel side" around the check ball area.
It looks like everyone is afraid to touch this one. Must have something to do with experience with rebuilt vs new injectors and the hassle of going back in a second time if things don't go right. It seems like the line of thinking is that we lowly mortals are unable to successfully conquer this task. I say kudos for diving in and taking one for the team. I look forward to hearing how it goes. I, too am watching to see how it goes.
Sometimes I pay people/shops to do things for me not only because I don't have the knowledge or experience to get the job done right. I think this is one of those times for me, I will give a shout to PIS for some 160/80 new Alliant injectors when the time comes.
I wish you the best of luck though and will follow your progress.
I am keeping them stock on the principal of fuel economy. To go bigger is simple. Just by swapping in the larger parts here. https://406injectors.com/collections...-3-powerstroke
But after the first one it was simple. Not much more to it than a full swap out and replacing seals. Just have to line stuff up IE pins. Never do more than one at a time. I almost mixed some parts! I always try and keep things where they came from even when building an engine. You could if one had to use a big pipe wrench around the hold down lever. As the TQ is only 65-70 ft lbs. I do not think it would be a big deal. One could weld a socket to a made up tool for your tq wrench. The hard part is making the clamp to get a pin/bolt in the holes(4 horizontal holes just just under middle outer seal to cups that fuel goes through) without scraping/galling the innards. I welded two nuts and used bolts so I could adjust the depth. I Go till it contacts and back off half a turn. In my case I think the reason I had a miss was the small pins(down by the nozzle) where missing! I hypothesize it would spin and hit the fuel hole for a while then back to the holes not aligned and back to my miss. But time will tell here should be done Tue/wed with luck.
My next fun thing to do is tear down a Hpop. I always thought those as Voodoo as well. But with my mill here I could cut new custom angles in the swash plate.
That is a very interesting line of products that they have there and it is a veteran owned company (I'm not sure if that helps or not). And these are all parts that I read were only available to bona fide injector rebuilders. Do you know what the country of origin is for this stuff?
I have just rebuilt my first set of sticks with parts from 406injectors, which by the way are awesome to deal with. I went for 30% nozzles on AD injectores. I did turn the poppet plate so it wasn't alligned with the magnet above. That injector failed contrbution test and where an easy fix. Runs like a champ and pulls much better than the old ones. I have now ordered 328cc/80% together with new piston and barrels for my next single shot built. Parts from 416injector where Allient Power and Italy made. I'm very happy with the outcome and no, its not rocket science as long as you are willing to dive in again in order to pull and replace whatever injector you did not get right on your frist attemt. The more of the internals you replace with new parts - the lower failure rate. After seeing my result in terms of smoke, power and sound- my fellow 7.3 PSD friends are all in for giving me a go on they're sticks. And to all of you my FTE friends - go for it, there are one really informative how to video from Rubberduck om Youtube.
This is awesome! I got the shim kit and want to start it by next week but after seeing this thread, might s well give it a gander...what all did you order to retain the stock AD injector?
Congratulations and thanks for reporting back. Please keep me (us) updated with results. If possible a write up of do's and don'ts would be great. I intend to tinker with that too since I have hardware and help to do it.
The relief cut concept is intriguing, and I can see the sense in it. Before attempting it myself, though, I would want some fairly detailed description of how to do it without creating any additional liabilities.
Since I have the shims and a complete set of o-rings, and am still planning on doing that work very, very soon, I would really love to hear some knowledgeable input on DIY relief cut techniques and whether or not it is a worthwhile effort )risk versus benefits).
I am interested in following your lead here, but have a question.
I have OEM AD split-shots. I guess that makes them 135cc?
Is it possible and are they capable of using 80% nozzles, if I choose to use the deluxe rebuild kit and 80% nozzles?
I figure it is a matter of volume and won't be the same as 160cc 80% single shots, but my split shots are mostly okay with me, just getting older as I approach 200k miles.
I can rebuild same as stock, but if 20% or 80% or whatever is capable, why not?
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