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been quite awhile since I been here but I still have and drive my early bird every day. she's got 365000 on the clock now and with the price of new trucks I wont be buying one . so its losing a little oil pressure and a little noisy maybe need to give her some attn. what's a good compression range ? and I guess I should do a oil sample to get a good read on the motor I think I still have a blackwood kit somewhere. if I remember correctly ford said anything over 25psi at 2000 rpm was ok I think its at 45psi at that rpm but I know that is not what it used to be. maybe jumping the gun a little early but would rather not window the block. how many miles are you guys racking up now? I see a lot of old friends are still here just picking heads now.
Who can forget that avatar ...
Maybe you got a twitchy gauge. I recently found out my gauge was hitn the pipe when going over bumps. Reached under dash and moved wires, sure enough..gauges started twerk'n..
. Think, I'm at 15# idle, 40-55# when running. Also think, heated oil plays a role in psi
Pretty easy to change the LPOP on the front of the crank if you verify low oil pressure with a manual gauge off the HPOP reservoir fill plug. -4 ORB fitting.
Good compression is between 350-400 psi with all cylinders ideally showing within 10% of each other. Most of our trucks with lots of miles will be on the low end of that and down to around 325 psi. Lower than that, and you might need to look at a rebuild or head/valve work.
I have yet to find a block where the holes needed to be bored other than obvious damage. Last one I worked on I ran the hone down to clean it and get good readings. It almost made full contact up and down all the way. The engine had 265K on it.
After doing that block and getting the history of it I have had a new found respect for the bottom end(Short block) on these.
Who can forget that avatar ...
Maybe you got a twitchy gauge.
. Think, I'm at 15# idle, 40-55# when running. Also think, heated oil plays a role in psi
thanks timmy its a mechanical gauge and I'm close to your pressures .
Originally Posted by Nicmike
Pretty easy to change the LPOP on the front of the crank if you verify low oil pressure with a manual gauge off the HPOP reservoir fill plug. -4 ORB fitting.
yea its a mechanical gauge low pressure off the side of the block and the high pressure gauge is on the hpop. many of you guys change the pump and not rebuild the block bearings and such? mine is in great shape I bought it new specked it out actually. changed oil religiously 3000k in the beginning reg oil now mobil one syn 8k motor is clean on the inside.just sorta getting ready maybe a little early she still runs great.
Good compression is between 350-400 psi with all cylinders ideally showing within 10% of each other. Most of our trucks with lots of miles will be on the low end of that and down to around 325 psi. Lower than that, and you might need to look at a rebuild or head/valve work.
thanks mike I'm gonna check them.
Originally Posted by hotrodfeguy
I have yet to find a block where the holes needed to be bored other than obvious damage. Last one I worked on I ran the hone down to clean it and get good readings. It almost made full contact up and down all the way. The engine had 265K on it.
After doing that block and getting the history of it I have had a new found respect for the bottom end(Short block) on these.
yea and my early bird has the good rods to (forged) mine should be in good shape I thought about going with the rebuild bottom end kits from ford if I need to go that route. just gotta go thru the heads and every thing else its getting some age. I seem to remember about welding the pressed in cooling tubes I think they were piston coolers in the block is that still relivent?
I think so, considering I have/had debris in my oil that takes on the property of that metal... Unfortunately.
If/when b you get that far and yours are still there..etc, put your own taccweld to them.
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