Hey guys I have a '09 F350 with the 5.4. The motor let go so I swapped it out(what a PITA!!) anyways I primed the truck and started it and the truck was running rough and sounded like it had an intake leak, I pulled the intake and checked the gaskets and everything was fine, reinstalled and the truck sounded better, but still ran rough and smelled like it was running rich, real rich. The exhaust also had oil coming out of it, I'd assume it's residual from the engine failure. Pulled the codes and P2198(P2198 O2 Sensor Signal Biased/Stuck Rich ( Bank 2 Sensor 1)) was active. Shut it down and cleared the code, restarted and the truck sounded great, as soon as I hit the throttle it went to running rough again and the code came active again, cleared and went through the same process and had the exact same outcome. Let the truck sit overnight and started it up and it sounded great but as soon as I touch the throttle it goes crazy and runs rough and smells awful. Here's what I've done, I'm a diesel tech but gas engines are not my specialty. Here's what I've done.
-checked rail pressure via AE and pressure it ~42psi
-unplugged injectors on bank 1 and they barely made a difference in the running? Unplugged 3 injectors on bank 1 and engine sounded the same. Unplugged bank 2 and you could definitely tell a difference.
-unplugged the coils on bank 1 and the back 2 made a more noticeable difference than the front 2. Coils are new.
-pulled up the Oxygen sensors in AE and B1S1 fuel trim is in the negatives while B2S1 was in the positives. B1S1 dipped down to the 30s. It seems like the further into the negatives the fuel trim goes I begin to hear a ping like detonation. Volts are between .
.2-.9.
-pulled up power balance and the cylinders start out all even and then I hit the throttle and they go crazy into the negatives on RPM.
-pulled the fuel rail up and turned the key over to pressurize the rail and no leaking injectors. Pulled the injectors up slightly and started the engine over and they are spraying. And I have spark as well.

I'm at a loss if anyone could help it'd be great. I'm thinking of replacing the O2 sensor.

 

How long was the truck down? I've heard of vehicles sitting for a while and the carbon build up hardening on the sensor tips. Add a coat of oil on top of that, and it's very possible the sensor is just bad. You did check to make sure the sensor was plugged up and no wires pinched? You could try swapping the 02 sensors to see if the code moves.

 

Truck was down for around a week to a week in a half. I did check to make sure wires were connected and none were pinched. I just added everything I've checked as well.

 

Does it have an egr valve?..the o2 sensors don't come into play until the engine reaches a certain temp...Certainly not right off the bat. If it has an egr is it sticking open when you blip the throttle.

 

There is no EGR valve.

 

I'm guessing a vacuum leak somewhere, easily done when swapping a motor. Get you a can of throttle body cleaner and start checking. Sounds like you know what your doing and you'll get it figured out. Check the pvc going to the back of the intake, could have damaged it on the firewall when putting it in. My expedition threw a code when it was leaking, then broke in two and wouldn't even run.

 

I hope so. If I had a vacuum leak feeding the intake wouldn't I be throwing a code for both banks and not just 1?

 

Someone else recently had a similar problem and that same question in a thread. Unfortunately they never responded with an answer to their problem, so that thread is of no help. When you find your problem, please let us know, so it can help others in the future. There are some vacuum lines under the throttle body that are hard to see. Was this a crate motor or a used motor? I guessing used since it was only down a week. Did you swap in that new 02 sensor? Clean the throttle body while checking for vacuum leaks. I use a baby bottle brush.

 

Where did the engine come from...new reman...or old junk yard pull?

 

I don't recall my throttle body having any vacuum lines attached to it but I'll double check. And yea I found that thread and my truck is doing the identical thing that his was doing. Same bank and everything. And I will let everyone know what it comes down to. I sprayed contact cleaner throughout the engine bay and nothing hit. And it was a new long block(block, crank, heads, timing, Valve covers, and oil pan). I haven't tried swapping the sensor yet, I will do it today or tomorrow. I'm just confused as it is only one bank, Are there any vacuum lines that feed just bank 1?

 

It came from colt powertrain. And it was a longblock

 

Check to make sure both your coolant temp sensors are connected. By your description, it may be confused because of erroneous temp readings.

 

Every time I see an elusive problem after an engine swap like this, I think about the tone ring problem a few have had here. Whether it was the year change that caused a problem or an engine builder using one from a 6.8 v10 on a 5.4 or vice-versa.
Just a thought.

 

So a 3 valve engine went in to replace the 3 valve engine.

 

On the 3v engines was the coolant temp sensor replaced with the cylinder head heat sensor? Because that's 1 thing I replaced.