At the request of many well known Reps on here I am posting a new thread in hopes of receiving your advice, recommendations and expertise with the issues I am having below. I will try to disclose everything I know.

My brother recently passed away and I am considering purchasing his truck from his estate

2006 F350 Crew Cab, XL, work truck, auto, as base as base can get with exception to having electric 4x4 and backup sensors
207k miles, 7081.9 engine hours
SCT Tune - I have since tuned it back to stock setting until issues resolved
Everything is stock with exception to the tune and egr delete
I know the history of the truck since around 23k miles
Ford replaced oil cooler and egr cooler and head gaskets under warranty just before truck hit 100k miles
My brother purchased it at around 114k miles and put around 93k miles in two yrs
My brother drove it hard and was very bad at maintaining/servicingequipment’s, etc…
However, I have driven the truck around 700 miles myself so far

What I have done so far
Changed oil, oil filter, fuel filters, drained water from water separator – replaced with Ford Filters and Rotella Synthetic oil
Replaced air filter (ford filter), fuel cap, degas bottle cap
I will continue running only Ford Filters as recommended
After changing the oil, I sent his used oil off to Black Lab and everything came back average or better
I used a block tester with fluid from advanced auto and from what I could gatherit passed
The egr valve is connected and plugged in. I even removed it to clean it outand inspect it initially not realizing it had been deleted by a delete plate

Issues – All occurredunder minimal stress, no load, various speeds (Cruising low speed and athighway speed)
Loss of Power
Loss of coolant – My brother was adding 2 gallons per monthin the Georgia Summer (ford gold only and distilled water)
No signs of coolant under the vehicle or in the engine bay EXCEPT of degas bottle spraying (it’s only happened to me 2 or 3 times in 7 months / 700 miles)
No white smoke
No Oilin Coolant
No Coolantin the oil
Sign of coolant spraying tho (white around the degas bottle)
Truck randomly shakes at various speeds
High Deltas using ScanGauageII
Water and Engine temps haveexceeded 15 degree difference
SnapOn - Codes pulled


Videos – Below
Highway cruise
5 miles, no load

You Tube

You Tube

Cold start - GA Winter

You Tube

What are yourthoughts as to why I am losing coolant and having such varying temperatedifferences?

 

From your first video, part 1.

You are not pushing the motor at all, basically flat ground driving - as evident by hearing the mother and lack of any downshifting. It does sound good and smooth.

This a I quarantee:
a) the Oil Cooler is filled with an orange goo/sludge/slime, research "silicant drop out", the only way to chemically clean this situation is by using Fleetguard Restore to dissolve the sludge. That sludge is reducing the surface are of the exchanger, preventing efficient heat transfer. About $35 for Restore, about $120 for a CAT-1 coolant, about $20 for distilled water. 4~6 hours of time. The other option is to replace the Oil Cooler.

b) the Oil Cooler Bypass Valve is shot worn out, high miles. It is inside of the Oil filter housing, requires 20 minutes to replace. About $20 from BulletProofDiesel if they can sell it, or about $300 for the entire valve body from Ford and lots of time to install it.

c) nothing wrong with the thermostat temperatures, though that is candidate for replacement about $50.

This is suspect:
d) head gaskets are shot or head is cracked AT High Temperature. Two ways to validate, pull the heads or drive the truck like you stole it while measuring warmed up truck coolant levels before and after a good hard workout for about an hour. You might not see any white smoke at all. Again, AT HIGH Temperature.

 

Well first things first! You need to eliminate the codes you have.

The injector code you need to run a balance/contribution test on the truck after an overnight cold soak. If #1 shows weak then replace that injector.

replace the glow plugs on those 3 cylinders or all of them. They are cheap. Replace the GP harnesses. They usually break when you pull them off of the GP's.

Pull the HFCM from the frame and take it apart and clean it out. You can buy the gasket kit for it. I would bet it is full of crap or the sensor is bad. I had a WIF light that was problematic after 3 filter changes and numerous draining I ended up pulling it and cleaning it. That worked until the pump died a year later. Also have you drained fuel into a container and let it sit over night and then see if you have water in the fuel?

That should take care of those codes.

As for the coolant leak it could be a few things. As already stated it could be HG's or a cracked head. Do you have any oil/coolant mix? Is the egr cooler still in place? That could be a source of a leak. Have you looked into the engine valley under the turbo? There is a hose in there that could leak if the EGR cooler is still in place.

The low power could be a few things. From an EBP tube plugged, to a MAP sensor issue to a sticking turbo etc.

Always eliminate the codes first! Then clear the truck memory/computer and drive for a good half hour then rescan for codes.

 

I have a different take. You appear to have signs of failed head gaskets. Plumb a pressure gauge just upstream of the degas bottle on the radiator overflow. Drive the truck at various loads, including some WOT runs at full operating temp. If you have correlation between boost levels and pressure, or achieve pressure value of 16 psig or above, your gaskets are likely toast. There's enough experience on the board that can interpret any data you gather and post.

If the test is positive for gasket issues, you'll have a decision point. No value in changing glow plugs or injectors if head gaskets are gone in that truck - I doubt you'd get that money back out of you decided to sell it.

 

You have this thread and the other thread, good advice on both. What are you going to do?

Please don't open another thread - this community attempts to help people who can help themselves. Nobody is handing out a participation trophy for posting threads that only consume the time of others.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ile-truck.html

 

I plan on taking the advice and following it. As mentioned, I started this thread because it was recommended by other people. I realized I initially jumped the gun by making a different thread but I did not give all info. I also thought it would be better to post everything in one thread giving as much information as I know in hopes of receiving help from those that are well experienced.

Thanks for taking the time to read my post and offering your advice. I am sorry if I gave anyone any impression that I did not value their feedback and I was just fishing for more.

 

Nothing more than what I've already added in both threads.

 

thanks for reviewing this and offering your feedback.

I do not have oil in my coolant or coolant in my oil. I believe the egr cooler is still installed but I'll have to inspect to be sure. I believe only the egr valve is deleted and it's deleted by using a delete plate). I'll check for this and check the hose.

 

I HIGHLY doubt a troll would go through all the trouble of posting vids, giving us a pretty good synopsis of the trucks history and asking for advise.
The guy posted something twice, big deal, cut him some slack......he lost a brother recently. Not everyone here, myself included, knows as much about 6.0's as others do.

I've seen posts that troll, the guy makes an account and posts two or three times and vanishes. This ain't one of them.

 

My thoughts entirely, lost a brother besides.

Well said Mike.

 

Thank you both.

CopperFarm gave some great advise but I would have handled it differently but, no hard feelings.

I am going thru Probate to purchase my brother's truck and I am waiting until it is legally mine before I invest any more money into it. Once it's done i'll follow up with my findings and progress.

Another issue i've noticed, I added coolant/distilled water b/c the coolant level was very low, practically none in the degas bottle. I added and got it to the correct level. I Left the truck parked for a few days, started it up just to move it in my driveway and I noticed the degas bottle was completely full.

What do you make of this and when should you check your coolant level?

any

 

Sounds like you're getting air in the system, replacing the engine coolant when the tank is full.
I'd start with the thermostat first, knowing it can reek havoc on coolant levels when not operating properly.
Easy place to start.

 

Thanks. Once I can purchase the truck, ill change the thermostat immediately.


I just removed 68oz of coolant yesterday to get it back to where it should be.

 

I hope you guys are doing well. I have still not purchased my brother's truck as it is still tied up in probate. I have since purchased the wifi obdII hook up and app. What does the data attached mean? Thanks so much. PS once I can actually purchase the truck, I plan on going thru it and correcting each code then evaluate how what my next course of action will be. Thanks for your help.

 

What app are you using?