well...I did it...for the first time ever. I crossed over and decided to change the filter myself last night.

wasn't too bad...went to the local dealership and bought the filter for $37 plus tax and went home to change it. I got the instructions from your posts on this site and decided I could tackle this project myself.

some one told me that I should check out the screen at the bottom when I get the filter out to make sure its clean. when I pulled out the black filter, I didn't see a screen. I saw a chrome colored wheel about the diameter of the filter that looked somewhat like a fancy tire rim. it looked really clean and I didn't see a screen so.... i put the filter (motorcraft) on the post and slide it down as far as I could and put the top on....also dumped a little stanadyne in there like I've read here. screwed the lid on and started it up.

I guess I didn't have the lid on tight as I needed it though. when i did start it, it sprayed diesel everywhere. I killed it tighted it up some more and then took if for a ride...it started right up.

when i got back opened the hood up and noticed something dripping off the wire next to the fuel filter canister. it was diesel again. ....so again i tightened it and this time I guess i must have gotten it....it finally seemed to stay tight and I haven't noticed any more drips....

anybody have this problem before?

also...I noticed I got a bird nest in the V of the engine right below the fuel filter...guess it's been there since I bought it...any ideas on how to remove it without tearing down then engine? will it hurt to leave it there ( ie: cause temps to get to high or ignite?)

thanks for the input and helping me thru!!

 

First of all, I love your screen name... great choice! Yes I have done the same thing, the filter just needs to be tightened down pretty good. I don't have the tool used to tighten it so i just used a screw driver and a hammer to set it straight. You should be able to find a cheaper filter though. $37 is way too expensive. Got mine at Autozone for around $19 and I am sure there are places with them cheaper than that. Let me know if I can ever be of assistance. Doing your own maintenance is a great thing!

Scott

 

thanks....I've never been much of a mechanic...just never been taught...I know where the key components are, but other than that, I'm clueless. Wish I knew more, but I have learned a ton from this sight and from trail and error. I thought that AutoZone didn't have the motorcraft filters...I wanted to stay with Motorcraft instead of Purolator or Fram or Hastings. was your $19 a Motorcraft?

likewise I didn't have a filter wrench either...i just used a pair of channel locks that I could get on several of the fins to turn it. It didn't seem like it was on near as tight when I took it off as when I put it back on.

 

no, mine was a purolator, that may explain the difference.

I think!?!?!?!

Scott

 

Pretty sure the Auto Zone fuel filters are made by Hastings, judging from what I have seen on the Internet. That's what I have currently. Just remember if you do go to an aftermarket filter, the canister lid and the filter are made together, so you won't be using your OEM canister cap. If you do stray away from the Motorcraft filter, DON'T throw away your cap. You might need it some day (wish the previous owner of my truck had realized that).

I was looking at your signature, fisher_of_man. Pretty impressive fleet. Is your '00 a SRW or a dually? Also, could you tell me what an F-140 is?

 

Hey everybody, I just replaced my fuel filter last month because of a bad batch of diesel. I got mine from Kron International in LEX, KY and only paid 14.99+tax. They said they could sell theirs for that price because of he large volume they sell. Just a hint. The directions that I got even said to use a screwdriver for the lid. The Int'l filter uses original top.
Just thought I'd share tht tip for anyone who can use it.

 

its SRW...and its supposed to be F150...for some reason something keeps happening the other day it changed to just F150 Super...the crew fell off...I'll go back and fix it. thanks for letting me know. The only one I have now is the 00 F250 -- but that's all I really need -- one good dependable, long lasting truck! I just had to keep upgrading til I got the one I've always wanted!!

 

I want to change the fuel filter on my used 2002 7.3L in the near future. Anyway to tell if the existing filter is a motorcraft or an aftermarket before I open it up? If it is a aftermarket, and I wanted to go with a motorcraft, then I would have to buy the lid...right???? I assume that Ford sells these and wonder how much the lid cost or does it come with the filter????? Also beings I'm new to this forum, I'm sure it's been discussed before, but what is the proper way to change this filter without making a mess? Can you drain it by opening the water trap valve? If so, you would insert a new filter and tighten the lid and then crank untill it starts...right?????? Sorry for all the questions but this is alot different than what I'm used too when I change filters on my farm tractors. Thanks and I look forward to your help!

 

I don't know that there is a way to tell without opening it up...if you do and the filter doens't come out with the lid, then you have the original in there. yes, they do have the lid, but I have read on here that they charge anywhere from $50-90 for the stupid thing!!! I did exactly like you said...opened up the water trap valve and let it drain down..the only problem was I couldn't find the hose it was coming out of...got diesel everywhere! pull the filter out, put the new one in and tighten the lid back...shouldn't have to crank to much...mine started right up. when you turn the key to start, it pumps fuel back into the bowl. good luck and it turned out to be a lot easier than I thought it would be.

 

$50 to $90 for that stupied lid????? I guess I'll find out when I get into it...already made up my mind that if it's a aftermarket, then it's going to continue to have aftermarket filters in it. Can anyone give me an idea of what is a GOOD brand to use? Thanks

 

Hey Fish.. I change my Filters too... Make sure you coat the seal on the cap with diesel an make sure it is not twisted an it wont leak... Thanks Spud

 

I have no problem with the Hastings filter (Auto Zone). I have had no problems with it.

I have a stock lid I could take a picture of so you all would know what it looks like. Gimme a little time, and I'll post an image.........

 

Red Taurus94....Plesae post a pic of the lid...I was in town awhile ago and picked up a Wix filter, thinking that as one poster said it would have a lid..well opened it up and NO LID...now what do I do??????

 

OK....here is a picture of the stock lid:




I priced this piece at several Ford dealers here in N.C. and they wanted from $42 to $54 for them. I tried to price one at the local International dealer, but once they found out that it was for the Ford, they said they couldn't get it. Not sure what their deal is there, but if you try to get a price on one from an IH dealer, tell 'em it's in a school bus or something. AND if you DO buy one from an IH dealer, let us know what you have to give for it.........

 

Red Taurus94...If you will read my new post from yesterday afternoon, you will see that I took a look at what I had and found it to be a Baldwin with the lid attached. Found a Baldwin dealer in town and bought one this AM...little over $22 with tax. I'll carry a spare one with me at all times so the issue of having the spare lid shouldn't be a problem now although, if I elect to get one in the future from IH, I'll use your advice about it being in a school bus or something other than a Ford Super Duty. Thanks for all your help By the way, the OEM lid is alittle different than the Baldwin. I can tighten the Baldwin down with a 1/2in socket drive.