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the load in my signature is 27,000 lbs from Grand Junction to central AZ in the summer 100+ degrees and my rear end never went over 190, my trans would climb up over 250.
towing my 5th wheel from San Diego through death valley in June it never went over 190, 120 degrees
That's enough to convince me I don't need a special cover.
Never saw one on a military vehicle I was behind.
I have replaced cracked aluminum ones. Steel ones just dent.
I just cant figure out why doing it with exception of more oil, sight glass maybe and a drain plug.
the load in my signature is 27,000 lbs from Grand Junction to central AZ in the summer 100+ degrees and my rear end never went over 190, my trans would climb up over 250.
towing my 5th wheel from San Diego through death valley in June it never went over 190, 120 degrees
Not to disagree, my experience is from hauling double and a few triple tandems gooseneck trailers from Black forest CO, to Silverthorne over Eisenhower on a DRW Sterling 10.5 with 4.30s , maybe 60-70 degree days. Loads were logged timber 24-28,000 lbs scale verified. This is not a GROSS weight, including the truck we weighed in over 30k everytime. I could get the diff to 235 degrees within 10 minutes up I70, and it was hard to drop it much, seen more than that as well.
Trans stayed at 225-230 with a 6.0 cooler and upsized lines. I will agree a deep finned trans pan does nothing for temp, but the additional 6 qts can be nice.
I will agree 90% of them out there are for looks....
Hey bud. By chance, can you tell me how much longer the bolts need to be compared to stock?
Everywhere i read said 1 1/4" 5/16 bolts but i got away with 1" using a lube locker gasket. Lowes sells them in stainless for like $1 each. I used regular bolt heads not the allen hex cap ones
Everywhere i read said 1 1/4" 5/16 bolts but i got away with 1" using a lube locker gasket. Lowes sells them in stainless for like $1 each. I used regular bolt heads not the allen hex cap ones