In the process of a basic restore of a 1976 F250 360 4x4 4spd manual. I've got the frame stripped bare except for the engine, transmission & transfer case. I thought it would be a good idea while I have access, to replace the intake, rear main and oil pan gaskets & seals. I've never done intake or rear main before so looking for advice.

Intake Manifold:
I have removed the intake manifold (cast iron) and have cleaned it up nicely. Everything looks good but there is what I'd consider a very slight amount of pitting in some spots around the water jacket ports. When I removed the manifold, they had previously used the full gaskets on the heads but only used a gray sealant for the front and rear seal instead of the gaskets. Seems like every thread, article or you-tube I see, people say to use different methods.

I have a set of FelPro gaskets MS90145 coming tomorrow but wanted to hear your thoughts on the best methods and the absolute things to NOT do.

Rear Main Seal:
Ignorant question but can I replace this just by removing the oil pan or do I need to pull the transmission / bell housing? I'm assuming since I've got it down to a bare frame, I should be able to just leave the engine on the frame and remove the transmission if needed? Any tips or tricks and things to Not do?

and lastly,

Oil Pan Gasket:
Last time I did an oil pan gasket was maybe 30yrs ago. I'm assuming this is fairly straight forward, clean surfaces, install gasket, install pan and torque properly?

Thanks guy's!

 

I just redid the top end and gaskets on a 390.If I had it to do over again, I would used RTV for the front and rear of the intake. I noticed the other day my front intake gasket slid out from the mating surface and is barely catching on the block. At the very leat I would put a little RTV on the block side of those gaskets and let it set up to "glue" it in place before replacing intake.

The pitting, are you sure it is the water jacket ports? These have a passage that runs from the exhaust in the intake to heat the carb area.

I did not replace the rear main seal, I believe it involves removing the rear cap so I didn't want to deal with it.

Only thing you need to do with the oil pan gasket is make sure you put a dab of RTV where the timing cover meets the block. The oil pan bolts to both.

 

Hmm..good question, from what I remember seeing it was the 4 smaller ports on the corners if that makes sense. It's not bad, but its not perfectly smooth either.

 

Sealing up the intake is the easy part, do whatever makes you happy there. I've done the China walls both ways. The toughest part is getting the intake centered back up between the valley without disturbing your gasket or gasket maker.

The real pain in the neck is the rear main seal. You can do it in the frame but I can't imagine. I doubt you'll run into a rope seal but it's possible but most likely long gone. The later ones are easy to install except for the side seals and nails for the main cap. I like the Fe but really dislike the rear main on them.

 

Don't use blue or black rtv. I like permatex red #7 you can get it at Napa. If you don't like to use the end gasket on the intake and want to use rtv then make sure there is no oil on there, it has to be clean, I would use starting fluid to remove all traces of oil. Personally I like Fel-Pro gaskets and would use them. I can't remember about the rear main seal. Don't forget if your going all out you might as well put in a new torque converter seal too.Never mind I see you have a manuel