I have a 2007 Expedition, that I love, except for the rear air suspension. I have found a set of rear struts, with coil springs, from a rollover. I need to know how to make it so the message center doesn't keep displaying "check air suspension". Anyone know how to do this?

 

This may help disable the rear air suspension from filling up and deflating to maintain ride height but not solve a true issue that needs to be repaired.

2007-2011 Ford Expedition and Navigator Air Suspension

 

You may be out of luck. Strutmasters did not have a solution for the light last time I looked at their site.

 

Are you thinking Strutmasters might have a solution to the light in the future or assuming the OP has strutmasters on his Expedition now? I'm confused.

 

I have this scanner that gives alot of information and control for fords. I'll look soon and see if it lets you reset the rear air suspension error.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JU3L6IC...ing=UTF8&psc=1

 

Strutmasters sells bolt in replacement struts with coil springs to replace the air suspension shocks. Basically converting a air ride vehicle to conventional suspension. On most of their applications, think town car, they offer a means to disable the suspension warning light. According to their sight they have not been able to find a work around for the Expedition/ Navigator at the present time.

 

Why do you not like the rear air suspension?

 

I live out in the country, on a gravel road. That type of driving is hard on air suspension components. It is starting to cost a small fortune to keep the air suspension going.

 

Realizing this is a mildly dated thread; I'm likely in the market for this generation Navi due to the demise of my current daily driver.

I want to be able to run 33"-35" tires, and have been reading a number of threads on the "lift" everyone is doing.

Questions for those in the know: Is the forward trailing arm bracket welded to the frame?? I have experience in "adding height via longer springs" as is done above. There are 3 issues doing it this way that concerns me - 1) being trailing arms, they swing on a central point, meaning more down also means more forward... 2) the ride quality suffers as the attack angle is sharper, so you end up with a more progressive rate of compression... 3) there is a caster/camber change when the axle swings more.

I did a similar lift to my 2000 VW Beetle. Although I went extreme, due to the castor change, the tail felt very touchy. I ended up having to drop the leading radius point, and set the trailing arm angle at a more consistent to stock angle. This meant that the wheel was again centered in the wheel well, the castor was correct, and the angle being corrected meant that the harshness was resolved....

I'd like to fabricate some drop brackets if I go this route, but wonder if I'm going to be welding them onto the frame vs bolting...