So, looking at some engine mods for this year, need some input on what is worth buying.

Wicked Wheel 2 compressor wheel? Anyone ever used one of these? I noticed Clay doesnt stock any. So Im guessing what he supplies works better? Is this mod even worth it?

And then a while back I talked to someone about a new turbo. They suggested just doing the bearings, more info on this please. Clueless ATM.

Currently have a 6637 filter, not sure what system (Like the crap that connects it to the turbo) cuz it was on there when I purchased it. Have heard concerns about it pulling too much warm air in? Have also heard good things about the S&B systems. Tho they look a bit pricey. I would like to either look at a new system or get a new filter with one of those blue covers from RiffRaff.

Injectors. I have no idea whats in it. If they have been replaced. Rebuild. I got nothing. Should probably get in contact with the previous about that right? I have glowplugs to put in, but I dont want to open that up until I figure out my injector situation. Doesnt need glowplugs just was ordering anyways so I threw em in there. Now, do I just want to rebuild the injectors? Or get new? Ive kind of been upgrading stuff as it breaks, but I hear injectors are hella expensive.

Thanks

 

The wicked wheel 2 is a good upgrade over the stock wheel, also check out the SPX wheel, (and their 360* bearing kit some members have been using them here lately with good results.

The 6637 is a good filter, if you don't mind the noise. As to the warm air debate, here is where I stand (I run a 6637) it may suck in warmer air at idle, but as soon as you are moving there is plenty of cooler air passing through the engine bay to negate that, that is not taking into account the fact it gets heated up going through the turbo, and in turn cooled again by the intercooler anyway. I have an EGT gauge and as far as I can tell I don't see any issues with hot air (I live in Florida, so it gets pretty warm down here). If you can stand the noise and don't mind the way it looks I would just order another filter and replace. As for the sock, I don't run one, they reduce the effective surface area and clog up way quicker than the filter ever would. I presently change my filter once a year without a sock, and I don't think it really needs to be done then, just part of my annual maintenance.

As for the injectors, there are several options available to you, I would suggest searching the forum for some insight. If you can't get hold of the original owner to find out about these then pulling the valve covers is the only way to really find out what you have.

Before any serious upgrading I will relay some excellent advice I received here in the beginning. Get yourself a diagnostic scanner (pretty cheap options now on these) and make sure your truck is 100% before delving too far down the rabbit hole. Search for a user called Tugly, he has some excellent links in his signature to help you on this (OBD II scanners).

Welcome to the forum, you will gain some excellent advice here, whether is may be what you actually want to hear or not, really good guys, who don't mind helping you spend your money wisely!

One final thing to contemplate is, what are your plans for the truck overall, do you plan to tow heavy? Race from stop light to stop light? Longevity? Daily driver? All these will affect what options you would like to choose as far as upgrades.....

 

Keep in mind that the E99 came with a WW in the turbo, have you peeked in there to see what it looks like? If not do so and take a picture, then you can decide whether or not it's worth it to change it out. Also check the turbo for play, up and down (side to side) and in and out. If you want to change your filter the buzz is that the AIS filter is about the best and quietest unless you go for bigger injectors and tunes. I come from the school of, "if it's not broke don't fix it", and I'd leave those injectors alone until they cause problems. I would open it up and see what they are though. They were AB from the factory for that truck and their serial numbers will start with that. The numbers are right up on the top, front and center.

 

You are referring to a WW 1, the WW 2 is a completely different design......

 

I have used several and like this one. Price is right as well.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffraff-diesel-billet-compressor-wheel-94-03/

 

Ive got a scanner. Good points on the 6637. As far as my plan goes, Im hopin to get another 300k in at least. I dont see myself ever getting rid of this. I dont have any stoplights where i live so. . .

Thank you

Sorry, meant to say that Im not replacing them until they start to fail.

 

Are the differences as stark between WW 1 and WW 2 as they are between 99.5+ vs WW 2? Would it behoove me to keep an eye out for a WW 2?

Sorry...

 

The '99 Whistling Wheel is cast, whereas the WWII (sold only by DieselSite) is machined.

 

Also, the WW1 is not/never was meant to be a performance improvement ( as per DieselSite themselves). It was nothing more then a copy of the factory OBS wheel design, and its one and only purpose was to cure "surge" that some owners experience with the factory SuperDuty wheel, when pulling heavy loads. The WW1 is actually a slight performance downgrade, in terms of outright power output, from a factory 99.5-03 SuperDuty wheel.

The billet WW2, on the other hand, was designed to both eliminate the surge issue, as well as offer a noticeable improvement in performance. One of my first major mods/repairs was rebuilding the turbo, with an SPT 360 bearing kit, and a WW2. Even with the stock worn out injectors (w/ bad o-rings), I felt a difference. I later upgraded my injectors, and then shortly after installed an S&B CAI, seeing even greater benefit from the WW2.
In my opinion, with all the billet wheel options out now, and with their known advantages, its silly for anyone to buy a WW1 now. They really ought to just stop making them. If you are in there to change the wheel anyway, you might as well just go to the WW2 ( or one if the less expensive alternative billet wheels- if money is a concern.)

 

Check spturboost.com for their turbo rebuild kits and wheels, price is really competitive.

 

Alright thanks for the input. What is my best bet as far as turbo? A full rebuild with performance parts?

Is the RiffRaff one linked above just as good as the ww2? Id rather give my money to Clay

Havent heard any info on injectors yet, anyone have a thread I should check out?

 

I have the 4/4 billet wheel from Riffraff and am really happy with it. It eliminated my surge and seems to build boost a little quicker.

I do not have any plans to beef up the turbo so I used the Garrett rebuild kit. Had I known about the SPX 360* bearing kit I would have gone that route but I've been very happy with the wheel and rebuild. It feels like a new turbo.

The 6637 should be stock tubing with something that's 4" in diameter to adapt the filter onto the end. I've run that for 8 years with no problem. I have an S&B (dry filter) waiting in the garage for install.

Injectors are a can of worms. There's plenty to read and as many options as opinions. Search some threads to get your knowledge on. There's more than you ever wanted to know just waiting for you to grab a cup of coffee (or five) and start reading.

 

Alright thanks. Ive got some tubing going to a metal elbow deal that connects the filter.

Yeah looking at injectors is gonna give me cancer in my eyes. . .

 

I did the ats housing and just installed the riffraff compressor wheel made for the ported housing and it's pretty sweet. If I could go back tho, I would have just done a ww2 with stock housing.

 

I run the RiffRaff 4/4 billet wheel in a rebuilt turbo with the SPX 360 bearing kit and high flow outlet. Other than the wheel, bearing and high flow outlet the turbo is stock. It builds boost quickly, is quiet (comparatively) and can hold 25-28 PSI when towing a 5th wheel and climbing a grade no problem.

If you are unfamiliar with injectors, perhaps check out the post below that I started back when I was trying to figure them out. There is a lot of information on injectors, and what is 100% right for one truck is 100% wrong for another. Look at your goals and needs for the truck, then select an injector and nozzle size, then select a manufacturer.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ad-aa-etc.html

Don't forget, that the up-pipes, CAC tubes, and a half dozen other parts contribute to how boost is built up and how it is delivered.

In the future, I have plans to upgrade to the KC38R turbo and PIS 160/100 NEW injectors for improved power delivery which will make towing the 5th wheel effortless.