Dash Light Woes
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2015
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Dash Light Woes
Well my dash lights went out on me again. I had changed the bulbs and the plastic bulb holders with the contacts. But the contacts seem to be jacked up on the cluster itself. I'm willing to bet this is my problem. What is an easy fix on this. I planned on giving the contacts a little more pressure. Also what is the blue stuff in there when looking at the front?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
If me I would pull the printed film off and give it a good soap & water cleaning first.
Once clean & dried I would take fine sand paper like 600 grit and sand each contact so it is shiny again.
Don't forget where the nuts go and where the IVR screws on to as it also looks like it contacts the film for a ground.
Also do the IVR were it contacts the film for the ground and the nuts for the gauge(s)? too.
Also hit the plug contacts to make sure they are shiny too.
Make sure the bulb holder contacts are clean / shiny, hit with the 600 grit paper too.
Once back together and if the light switch is good, might want to replace it just because, the dash lights should work again.
Dave ----
Once clean & dried I would take fine sand paper like 600 grit and sand each contact so it is shiny again.
Don't forget where the nuts go and where the IVR screws on to as it also looks like it contacts the film for a ground.
Also do the IVR were it contacts the film for the ground and the nuts for the gauge(s)? too.
Also hit the plug contacts to make sure they are shiny too.
Make sure the bulb holder contacts are clean / shiny, hit with the 600 grit paper too.
Once back together and if the light switch is good, might want to replace it just because, the dash lights should work again.
Dave ----
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Yes then the switch & holders should be good but I would still hit the holders with the paper just to make sure they are shiny before putting them back on the clean film on the cluster.
Why I said head light switch is the rheostat for dimming gets the same green funk the gauge cluster contacts you have and will not let power go thru to the cluster.
FYI I did this on a 70 AMC Javelin I am restoring as none of the gauges or lights worked. When I got it back in the car and tested everything worked like it was brand new.
Dave ----
Why I said head light switch is the rheostat for dimming gets the same green funk the gauge cluster contacts you have and will not let power go thru to the cluster.
FYI I did this on a 70 AMC Javelin I am restoring as none of the gauges or lights worked. When I got it back in the car and tested everything worked like it was brand new.
Dave ----
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Thanks Dave. I'm going to give that a shot. I'm going to take the gauges apart and do a good cleaning on them. I got a new Retro Sound radio for chistmas So when I'm done installing that I will clean up those and hope for the best.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,512
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From: Wildwood Pa
Your dash light sockets in the cluster itself are in pretty rough condition. The white plastic is crumbling, that won't allow the grey bulb holders to stay tight & make good contact. The real cure at this point is a different cluster with a solid back, one that isn't crumbling. They can be hard to find used, but they are out there. Check eBay. Here's one:73-79 FORD TRUCK BRONCO 85 MPH SPEEDO & GAUGE CLUSTER RESTORED SPEEDOMETER 77 78 | eBay
You can also replace the white plastic backing with a new one, there are a few threads that list the part #. Or the updated backing was used in 90's vans. You would have to swap all your present cluster parts over to the new backing.
The blue green "stuff" you see when you peer thru a couple of the light socket holes is the lens that gives the dash light the green glow.
Dave gives good advice for getting your PC in good shape. Doing that will make a big difference. But until you replace the crumbling backing, you'll continue to have issues.
You can also replace the white plastic backing with a new one, there are a few threads that list the part #. Or the updated backing was used in 90's vans. You would have to swap all your present cluster parts over to the new backing.
The blue green "stuff" you see when you peer thru a couple of the light socket holes is the lens that gives the dash light the green glow.
Dave gives good advice for getting your PC in good shape. Doing that will make a big difference. But until you replace the crumbling backing, you'll continue to have issues.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
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I just did mine. I cleaned/lightly sanded the bulb contacts on the Instrumment Panel Printed Circuit Board, and on the bulb holders. I also slightly bent the board contacts on the holders in order to give them a better bite. Then I sanded the contacts where the wiring harness plugs in to the cluster, as well as the contacts on that harness connector. That got me a little more brightness.
I also removed my light switch and sprayed WD40 into the dimmer parts and tried to clean it up the best I could. I then cleaned the contacts on the switch and on the harness connector. That got me still a little bit more brightness.
My gauge lights are pretty decent now, although they are still a little too dim when all of the lights dim at idle.
I also removed my light switch and sprayed WD40 into the dimmer parts and tried to clean it up the best I could. I then cleaned the contacts on the switch and on the harness connector. That got me still a little bit more brightness.
My gauge lights are pretty decent now, although they are still a little too dim when all of the lights dim at idle.
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Took the gauge apart and. I sanded the contacts. But I can see where it's deteriorated. Mainly around the greenish globes which 1 Was broke and the other I removed. They worked before but when I took it out it must have broke the 1. I'll give the sockets more tension. Since I got it apart I'll even paint the needles.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
D6TZ-10K843-B .. Printed Circuit Board-Use with Oil & Amp GAUGES / Marked: D6TF-10C956-BA / Obsolete
1976/79 F100/350 / 1976/91 Econoline / 1978/79 Bronco.
BAYER FORD in Comanche TX has 1 = 325-356-2777.
HAVEN FORD PARTS in Haven KS has 1 = 620-465-2252.
NOS PARTS SOURCE in Olathe KS has 1 = 913-220-5746.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
F4UZ-13B765-A (replaced C8OZ-13711-A & B) .. Instrument Cluster Bulb Holder / Obsolete ~ 100's available NOS
Misc: 1968/90's FoMoCo vehicles.
HAVEN FORD PARTS has 26.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 94 = 800-543-4959.
1976/79 F100/350 / 1976/91 Econoline / 1978/79 Bronco.
BAYER FORD in Comanche TX has 1 = 325-356-2777.
HAVEN FORD PARTS in Haven KS has 1 = 620-465-2252.
NOS PARTS SOURCE in Olathe KS has 1 = 913-220-5746.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
F4UZ-13B765-A (replaced C8OZ-13711-A & B) .. Instrument Cluster Bulb Holder / Obsolete ~ 100's available NOS
Misc: 1968/90's FoMoCo vehicles.
HAVEN FORD PARTS has 26.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 94 = 800-543-4959.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,260
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From: Pryor, OK
When I had mine apart, I simple put masking tape on the cluster before I put the printed film back down. This allowed a little tighter squeeze and cushion for the bulb holders. This worked pretty good for me.
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I think that's what I'll do. The pictures I just posted show the contacts barely touching. I think the tape will help
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Thanks numberdummy for that info.
I'm trying to take the printed circuit off. I got all the bolts and gauges out except the fuel gauges the studs are spinning. Any tricks to get that off or am I stuck cutting the bolts and buying a new gauge?
I'm trying to take the printed circuit off. I got all the bolts and gauges out except the fuel gauges the studs are spinning. Any tricks to get that off or am I stuck cutting the bolts and buying a new gauge?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
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Grab the tops of the threaded studs with some needle nose pliers or vice-grips, and then slip an open wrench in there and loosen it.
I didn't go that far because I thought I'd for sure ruined my gauge when the stud spun, so I just put it all back together, but it still works. I was in there fixing the lights and cleaning contacts, so I'd thought I would clean some gauge contacts as well...
I didn't go that far because I thought I'd for sure ruined my gauge when the stud spun, so I just put it all back together, but it still works. I was in there fixing the lights and cleaning contacts, so I'd thought I would clean some gauge contacts as well...
