As the title states, I am starting to wonder if I am getting some oil dilution.
Without fail, every time I change the oil, removing the filter first of course before dropping the plug, I end up higher on the dipstick when I check it around 1500 miles(I'm a little fussy that way).

It does not seem to really go up past that full mark, after some thinking about it, seems like it has crept a little higher each time it's close to oil change interval.
The oil does not smell like fuel, just that normal smell of engine oil you would expect from a diesel, not black either.

I'm going to check it again in a month and see how things look.
Anything else I am missing?
Likely culprit would be an injector body o-ring?
Perhaps it's time to get the Alliant kits and do the oil rails with the HHC kit, Randy has a nice write up from this summer, and these are original injectors pushing 150k miles, minus #6. I have noticed the IPR has crept up around a percentage point in 20k miles, and would bet I have some top seals starting to leak, however this would not allow fuel in the oil. I am referring to the o-rings around the body that seal it in the bore cup.

Thoughts?

 

Howdy,

One thought. before throwing parts at it, get yourself a couple of sampling kits and have them test it over at least 2 oil changes.

https://www.analystsinc.com/

Oil Analysis

Oil Analysis Lab Inc

Blackstone Labs


Cheers,

Rick

 

before you go crazy worring about this...try to figure out the net gain in qt's and then divide by your oil capacity to get the percent of fuel. if you gained 1qt and have a 14qt oil pan, net fuel % would be .07

the verdict is still out on what is a bad number....but I think I read somewhere that ford thinks .05 is an ok number.

 

Couple of good thoughts guys thanks. I did do some reading last night on the fuel dilution % that Ford says is acceptable.
What has me baffled is I can't catch any diesel smell in the oil, unless it's not enough to make it smell like it.

 

You'll probably always have trace amounts of fuel in the oil. Oil analysis from a reputable lab will tell you if it's "acceptable".

I of course, love "oil with diesel in it", but only when I get it from my neighbors! It runs GREAT in my Lanair waste-oil furnace!!

I wouldn't want it in my change oil though!

 

Ah yes, reminds me of the good old days as a kid when the local co-op would come to the farm house to fill the basement tank full of kerosene for the furnace. Those things would heat an old farmhouse no matter how drafty

 

On your next oil change, dump the oil and let it drain and drip dry. Then energize the fuel pump and wait. If the top fuel rail oring is leaking the fuel will run down into the oil pan and out the drain plug hole. You just got to watch for the fuel drip.

A little more invasive method is to pull the valve cover and energize the pump. Then watch for fuel around the injector body.

 

And what about the lower one leaking... a full cylinder?

 

For your above scenario the injector hold down would have to be loose or a damaged copper washer seal. If that's the case then:
With it on top dead center of suspected cylinder use a compression tester adapter going through the glow plug hole, and pressurize with shop air. Next remove the secondary fuel filter and watch for bubbles.
If it leaked with 60 psi of fuel pressure then it would have to leak with 150 psi. Also the compression gases eventually take out the lower oring and a bubble test will show. In reality the bubble test should reveal your issue too.

 

A bubble test would catch a leaking copper and the air will catch a leaking lower without adding the compression?

You said the hold down would have to be loose, if it's not, is this a useless test?

 

No, what I'm saying is if you had a condition where you had fuel draining down past the lower oring & the crush washer then the air test and bubble test should reveal the issue.
To get fuel in the cylinder from a failed oring then both oring & copper crush washer would have to have failed OR the injector pintle is not seating and is allowing fuel to leak into the cylinder. The latter has nothing to do with orings.

 

Either loose or copper washer bad.

 

I hope I'm not confusing anyone. Here's a picture for reference.

A: upper fuel oring
B: lower fuel oring
C: Copper crush washer
D: Pintle

Fuel can leak at points A, B, & D.
For your scenario above with fuel getting into the cylinder, it would be a leak from either D (more common and can be revealed in a bubble test),
OR
if B & C BOTH have failed.

 

Nope, not confusing at all.
So for Mike, upper o-ring at A would allow it to make oil and what mine was doing. After resealing mine, I should have bubble tested it but didn't.... it cost me an injector. I'm not sure if the copper didn't seal or the injector was weak to begin with, the Pintle was pretty Carbon coated and did appear to have leaked around the copper... noticed this after I took it apart. Within a week of the reseal, it coded and the truck started missing.

Make sure you get a set of brushes for the bores.

Thanks Pete for the injector education!

 

Yes, correct for Mike's issue. For your previous I'd suspect either the base of the bore (copper washer sealing surface) was dirty or the torque was off on the hold down. Always blow out the bolt holes completely for the injector hold down bolts and oil rail retaining bolts. Always use a bright light (LED flashlight) and a mirror to inspect the bores for cleanliness if you don't have a bore scope. And lube the orings with clean engine oil upon assembly.
Not pointing blame Randy just spreading info for anyone that reads this stuff.