Stalled & stranded
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Kansas City, KS
Stalled & stranded
'96 F150 4.9 4x4 just quit running and won't restart. I was trying to pull out of a parking lot. I have spark, new fuel pump, new battery, new starter. Engine cranks but won't start.
I have called a tow truck and they'll be at least an hour. Is there anything I can try to get it to start? Solenoid? Where is it?
Thanks to anyone who might be able to help.
I have called a tow truck and they'll be at least an hour. Is there anything I can try to get it to start? Solenoid? Where is it?
Thanks to anyone who might be able to help.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,305
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if it's cranking it's not the solenoid, or anything else starter related.
the PIP will often fail intermittently, before it fails for good. try BRIEF attempts at starting every few minutes, so that you dont run down your battery ... you may get lucky and have it catch.
the PIP will often fail intermittently, before it fails for good. try BRIEF attempts at starting every few minutes, so that you dont run down your battery ... you may get lucky and have it catch.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Kansas City, KS
joey2fords, THANK YOU! I'm thinking that's what it is, the PIP sensor failing intermittently. After an hour & a half of occasionally trying to start it, it started! How hard is it to replace the distributor? I gather it's just better to replace the entire distributor than to just replace the PIP. I've already replaced the ignition module, coil, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, battery, starter, rear fuel tank & pump.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Kansas City, KS
I can hear the pumps prime when I turn the key. Inertia switch is always a good thing to check, but it wasn't the problem in this case. Thank you for the tips, though!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
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swapping out a distributor is not rocket surgery 
, but i would pull codes first before tossing parts around.
, but i would pull codes first before tossing parts around.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
If it had spark and not start it is not the PIP sensor.
If the fuel pumps ran all the time with the key on when it would not start then I would say you have a bad PCM Computer.
If the fuel pumps ran all the time with the key on when it would not start then I would say you have a bad PCM Computer.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Kansas City, KS
Yes, that makes sense. I was wrong in my original post, I did not actually confirm I had spark. Thanks subford.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Kansas City, KS
The CEL lights up when key is turned to run. CEL stayed lit when I cranked the engine, if I remember correctly. When it finally did start, I drove it straight to the shop, as my insurance company wants to drop tow coverage on my policy. I can't afford to have it leave me stranded these days. There was no CEL lit when it started. Shop can't look at it until tomorrow. I try to do as much of my own repairs as possible, though, & would like to give the shop as much info as I can. Guess I'd better hope it's the PIP sensor.....
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
When it does not start if the CEL does not go out while the engine is cranked the the PCM Computer is not receiving the PIP from the distributor PIP sensor mounted on the stator assembly.
Note that a lot of the rebuilt distributors have bad PIP sensors in them.
Note that a lot of the rebuilt distributors have bad PIP sensors in them.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Highlands
Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. You can cheat and use a tire gauge a few times but it will kill it eventually. My money is on not getting fuel. (could be filter, could be switcher, or a numbe rof things).
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Elder User
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From: Kansas City, KS
This is an intermittent problem, when it happened before, it didn't actually stall while driving, but it wouldn't start, & it was totally random.
I've suspected fuel issues too, but why would fuel pressure just drop suddenly & then stay low for an hour & a half, then increase suddenly, enough to start & run? Fuel pressure regulator seemed to be working just fine before, when I tested the pressure.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Highlands
I just noticed you have a 96. You don't have a switcher, you have check valves that do all of the switching. My truck recently did something like you were describing but my rear pump was already acting up. Then the check valve failed slightly so my front pump was running but it was losing pressure due to bleeding off into the back pump.