Boost leak test
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 868
Likes: 1
From: SoCal
I had to set my shop air regulator to 40psi to maintain 20psi while overcoming the leak down past the piston rings. I also added a ball valve to control the air flow. You have to get the leak detector clamped in tight so it doesn't blow out with the pressure. It'll blow out before you can make enough pressure to hurt anything else. Oh yeah...don't stand in front of the leak detector, it hurts!
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
I set mine to 30 PSI, I figured that it was high enough to work but not high enough to hurt anything.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 523
Likes: 9
From: Carrollton, Ga
This took me by surprise when I did mine, your engine may rotate backwards slightly depending on what valve is open and what position the crank/piston is in. I tried to recreate this several times to no avail so it may be rare.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
It seems logical the engine is basically a air compressor. Did you hook your tester up at the turbo inlet?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,352
Likes: 5,946
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Start low pressure at like 10, then 15, then 20, then 25 or so if you feel the need. You should see leaks by 20-25 if you have them and don't need to crank up the pressure. You are simply simulating the pressure that the system would produce while spooling up the turbo.
Performing this step is a necessary step in my opinion if you are at all concerned about the condition of the truck. People spend thousands of dollars to make their truck run well and/or fast, but neglect to check how it is breathing.
Once I get done with my winter break modifications, I will gather materials to test the system on my truck. I suspect I have zero leaks due to the PSI I can maintain, but will not know for sure until I test it.
Performing this step is a necessary step in my opinion if you are at all concerned about the condition of the truck. People spend thousands of dollars to make their truck run well and/or fast, but neglect to check how it is breathing.
Once I get done with my winter break modifications, I will gather materials to test the system on my truck. I suspect I have zero leaks due to the PSI I can maintain, but will not know for sure until I test it.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
Been there, got that bandaid.
clean the tester cap and the boot your clamping it into with alcohol (isopropyl alcohol really cuts oil and it's cheap) or carb cleaner before assy. at 20psi it's like a potato cannon going off in your face. Fortunately mine just hit my arm
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Been there, got that bandaid.
clean the tester cap and the boot your clamping it into with alcohol (isopropyl alcohol really cuts oil and it's cheap) or carb cleaner before assy. at 20psi it's like a potato cannon going off in your face. Fortunately mine just hit my arm
clean the tester cap and the boot your clamping it into with alcohol (isopropyl alcohol really cuts oil and it's cheap) or carb cleaner before assy. at 20psi it's like a potato cannon going off in your face. Fortunately mine just hit my arm
haha 10-4 I will be cautious of that . First I have to get another air compressor or fix mine which it would be cheaper to buy a new on . At least my wife believes that lol
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Start low pressure at like 10, then 15, then 20, then 25 or so if you feel the need. You should see leaks by 20-25 if you have them and don't need to crank up the pressure. You are simply simulating the pressure that the system would produce while spooling up the turbo.
Performing this step is a necessary step in my opinion if you are at all concerned about the condition of the truck. People spend thousands of dollars to make their truck run well and/or fast, but neglect to check how it is breathing.
Once I get done with my winter break modifications, I will gather materials to test the system on my truck. I suspect I have zero leaks due to the PSI I can maintain, but will not know for sure until I test it.
Performing this step is a necessary step in my opinion if you are at all concerned about the condition of the truck. People spend thousands of dollars to make their truck run well and/or fast, but neglect to check how it is breathing.
Once I get done with my winter break modifications, I will gather materials to test the system on my truck. I suspect I have zero leaks due to the PSI I can maintain, but will not know for sure until I test it.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Im not looking forward to the replacement of the plenums. From what I have read it is a lot easier to remove the high pressure oil res
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
I had to set my shop air regulator to 40psi to maintain 20psi while overcoming the leak down past the piston rings. I also added a ball valve to control the air flow. You have to get the leak detector clamped in tight so it doesn't blow out with the pressure. It'll blow out before you can make enough pressure to hurt anything else. Oh yeah...don't stand in front of the leak detector, it hurts!