no start
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
Man I feel bad for you. Was it just the sensor leaking? Perhaps something got jarred a little when you were under there last time?
Doubt a HPOP cover leak would migrate up to the oil filter housing, did you use the good stuff in the corners of the cover?
Doubt a HPOP cover leak would migrate up to the oil filter housing, did you use the good stuff in the corners of the cover?
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 705
Likes: 12
From: Taxachusetts
it was the sensor. Oil was blowing right through it and amazingly out the pigtail where the wire goes. When I put the (why I saved it I don't know but glad I did) dead sensor in it stopped. I did use good silicone on the cover. Got a new one that I'll switch in when I can. It was the one that runs the gauge which irritates me driving it with no oil pressure on the dash cluster
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 705
Likes: 12
From: Taxachusetts
got my dieselsite orings in, sat down to compare it to the ford one.
my unscientific method with a digital micrometer.
the dieselsite d ring inside diameter measured .56 bigger and the d ring thickness (not height don't know how to differentiate) .51 smaller.it is also MUCH softer. which would mean it has room to squish into the groove on the j tube. and make it easier to get the cover on versus the ford.
keep in mind I am not an engineer, scientist or machinist and my measuring was done quickly while my kids were doing homework and avoiding chores.
my thoughts are that it doesn't matter if the dieselsite d ring is make of a more durable material (viton) or not, if its not exactly the same size its going to fail. I question the need for an updated cover and the possibility of the J tube and cover not being square to each other when the dimensional and flexible differences are taken into consideration.
thoughts?
my unscientific method with a digital micrometer.
the dieselsite d ring inside diameter measured .56 bigger and the d ring thickness (not height don't know how to differentiate) .51 smaller.it is also MUCH softer. which would mean it has room to squish into the groove on the j tube. and make it easier to get the cover on versus the ford.
keep in mind I am not an engineer, scientist or machinist and my measuring was done quickly while my kids were doing homework and avoiding chores.
my thoughts are that it doesn't matter if the dieselsite d ring is make of a more durable material (viton) or not, if its not exactly the same size its going to fail. I question the need for an updated cover and the possibility of the J tube and cover not being square to each other when the dimensional and flexible differences are taken into consideration.
thoughts?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
got my dieselsite orings in, sat down to compare it to the ford one.
my unscientific method with a digital micrometer.
the dieselsite d ring inside diameter measured .56 bigger and the d ring thickness (not height don't know how to differentiate) .51 smaller.it is also MUCH softer. which would mean it has room to squish into the groove on the j tube. and make it easier to get the cover on versus the ford.
keep in mind I am not an engineer, scientist or machinist and my measuring was done quickly while my kids were doing homework and avoiding chores.
my thoughts are that it doesn't matter if the dieselsite d ring is make of a more durable material (viton) or not, if its not exactly the same size its going to fail. I question the need for an updated cover and the possibility of the J tube and cover not being square to each other when the dimensional and flexible differences are taken into consideration.
thoughts?
my unscientific method with a digital micrometer.
the dieselsite d ring inside diameter measured .56 bigger and the d ring thickness (not height don't know how to differentiate) .51 smaller.it is also MUCH softer. which would mean it has room to squish into the groove on the j tube. and make it easier to get the cover on versus the ford.
keep in mind I am not an engineer, scientist or machinist and my measuring was done quickly while my kids were doing homework and avoiding chores.
my thoughts are that it doesn't matter if the dieselsite d ring is make of a more durable material (viton) or not, if its not exactly the same size its going to fail. I question the need for an updated cover and the possibility of the J tube and cover not being square to each other when the dimensional and flexible differences are taken into consideration.
thoughts?
My thoughts are that they will be hearing some shops asking for some labor back. Like I said earlier, why try to improve something that was not bad to begin with? The pump is the weaker link, not the o-rings.
Even if this was not an attempt to make something good better, then they need to have a visit with someone in QC that supplies their o-rings.
I would call them back and have a friendly chat with someone.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 705
Likes: 12
From: Taxachusetts
well the fun continues.
after sitting a few days, now the truck is getting harder and harder to start. last time it took 3 cranking times to start. icp, icpv and ipr are all where they should be, white smoke from the exhaust, all the same noises from under the hood. today I had to jump it because the batteries , which are new this fall, started slowing a little bit from the number of attempts to start it. I have sync and 5.0 vref.
oh and the water pump is weeping and the starter is starting to make the zinging sound.
could it just be the starter is getting weak and not spinning fast enough?
after sitting a few days, now the truck is getting harder and harder to start. last time it took 3 cranking times to start. icp, icpv and ipr are all where they should be, white smoke from the exhaust, all the same noises from under the hood. today I had to jump it because the batteries , which are new this fall, started slowing a little bit from the number of attempts to start it. I have sync and 5.0 vref.
oh and the water pump is weeping and the starter is starting to make the zinging sound.
could it just be the starter is getting weak and not spinning fast enough?
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,872
Likes: 952
From: Kaufman TX
A slower crank will increase the time to build the pressure to fire the injectors. Could be the starter, could be the cables, could be the batteries (or as WatsonR pointed out the batteries may be a symptom of the alternator), or a combination.
I'd put the batteries on a charge over-night, and go over all the battery cable terminations both positive and grounds including the block and starter. Also check the starter bolts, they have a reputation of backing out. Then see if it goes back to normal.
If the starer whirr is hanging on after you release the key that could be from loose starter bolts causing the starter to have a slight misalignment which can make the bendix gear hang up on the flywheel and not release properly. On other engines this can also be from the bendix engaging too far and the starter needs to be shimmed back, but I've never heard of that on a 6.0. It can also just be a failing starter.
I'd put the batteries on a charge over-night, and go over all the battery cable terminations both positive and grounds including the block and starter. Also check the starter bolts, they have a reputation of backing out. Then see if it goes back to normal.
If the starer whirr is hanging on after you release the key that could be from loose starter bolts causing the starter to have a slight misalignment which can make the bendix gear hang up on the flywheel and not release properly. On other engines this can also be from the bendix engaging too far and the starter needs to be shimmed back, but I've never heard of that on a 6.0. It can also just be a failing starter.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 705
Likes: 12
From: Taxachusetts
The first 4 tries at about 30 seconds crank time where normal. Maybe a little slower the next few tries. I pulled the excursion over leaving it running and put the jumpers on so to not hurt anything.
I may may have in my irritation when the d ring went cranked the leaving dodo out of it maybe probably not helped the starter out.
After it it started it ran fine. Shut it down a few times and it restarted fine on its own. Just came back from a half hour ride it ran normal.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 705
Likes: 12
From: Taxachusetts
The first 4 tries at about 30 seconds crank time where normal. Maybe a little slower the next few tries. I pulled the excursion over leaving it running and put the jumpers on so to not hurt anything.
I may may have in my irritation when the d ring went cranked the leaving dodo out of it maybe probably not helped the starter out.
After it it started it ran fine. Shut it down a few times and it restarted fine on its own. Just came back from a half hour ride it ran normal.
I may may have in my irritation when the d ring went cranked the leaving dodo out of it maybe probably not helped the starter out.
After it it started it ran fine. Shut it down a few times and it restarted fine on its own. Just came back from a half hour ride it ran normal.
open circuit for all the odd cylinders glow plugs
p2291 icp too low engine cranking
p2614 camshaft circuit open
p2617 crankshaft circuit open
wtf
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
Likes: 18
From: NW IA
All that cranking likely caused those last two codes, and likely the first one.
Don't wig out just yet on those two
Double check the plug for the passenger side on the GPM
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,872
Likes: 952
From: Kaufman TX
White smoke from the exhaust, hard start, glow plug codes.
Just a theory but I think you may have a glow plug issue causing the hard start, It's not exactly warm in Taxachusetts. Un-burned fuel exiting the exhaust (which will be white), and all the cranking set off the other codes.
Once you actually got it fired up, it ran fine...
Check the GPM harness like Navi said. Perhaps even check continuity if need be. It might need a GPM but I wouldn't just rush to throw that part at it.
Just a theory but I think you may have a glow plug issue causing the hard start, It's not exactly warm in Taxachusetts. Un-burned fuel exiting the exhaust (which will be white), and all the cranking set off the other codes.
Once you actually got it fired up, it ran fine...
Check the GPM harness like Navi said. Perhaps even check continuity if need be. It might need a GPM but I wouldn't just rush to throw that part at it.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
I agree...it's a glow plug issue. White smoke, sputtered and popped a few times and you shut her down. Tomorrow morning, either hold the starter until she coughs to life or plug it in to help the start.
Mine was doing the same thing with 3 bad plugs.
Mine was doing the same thing with 3 bad plugs.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 705
Likes: 12
From: Taxachusetts
Thanks guys
after all the crap that's been going on I went straight to the sky is falling mode.
Ill give it a few days