Cracked heater line help
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New User
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Tucson
Cracked heater line help
It seems that the install of my Doug Thorley headers didn't go as well as I thought. Turns out the passenger side header melted the bracket holding the heater lines and then punctured one of the lines when it rubbed against the header. Right now I'm not sure what to do. I noticed the melted bracket and pulled the fender well, but that's when I noticed the leak. I guess some of the melted plastic was keeping it from leaking everywhere until I removed it. I live in AZ so the rear heater isn't really necessary so if a stop gap measure is to bypass it then I'm game but I can't find any info on how to do it. If the only real solution is to get the entire line replaced then I'm a bit hosed I guess. Any help is appreciated. 2001 V-10 4x4 BTW.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 11
From: West Virginia
Loop the hoses uses barbed male to male adapters from any parts store for an immediate fix. Not sure what you broke since I'm not familiar with the gasser engine bay but I'm sure you can fix it one way or another.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Tucson
I drained the heater line and put some high temp JB weld on it. I'm going to wrap the hose in a Mylar cover that's normally used for starters and then remove the plastic mount and throw some steel zip ties. I hate Shade tree solutions, and prefer a factory look, but I love the headers and those stock plastic brackets aren't going to work next to those headers.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 11
From: West Virginia
I don't know what you're working with without pics, but what you could do is replace the rubber lines and plastic fittings with steel or aluminum tube for the portion that runs near the headers. It's a solution oems have used for years (like my 6.0 coolant crossover, which transitions to steel where it runs behind the hot turbocharger.
Senior User
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 133
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From: Southern NM
I think his leak is in one of the aluminum portions. I had the same thing happen a couple years ago right after I bought my Ex. It seemed that the bolt from the plastic clamp had vibrated out, or PO had removed it for some reason (maybe while replacing the starter?) and the line rubbed my shock mount. Mine was a fairly sizeable hole, so I just cut the aluminum line at the hole and clamped a piece of rubber heater hose over it, then replaced the line in the clamp with a new bolt. I was in a hurry to get it done before a 1500 mile round trip for Christmas leave, and it did the trick. No leaks in over 2 years.
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New User
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: Tucson
You're right it's in the aluminum portion right in between my headers and the shock tower. In the stock location I only have about 1/8 inch of clearance between the header and heater line/bracket. When it melted the bracket the heater line fell on the header and it burned a hole in it. I repaired it with extreme heat jb weld and wrapped it with a Mylar cover designed for starters in high heat applications and then I re-routed it so I have about an inch of clearance. Hopefully the jb weld holds. We have a long trip ahead towing the camper.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 160
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From: Tempe
Those aluminum lines have (IIRC) 3/4 quick connect fittings. You can order replacements with barb fittings and just use 5/8! heater hose to fix. Or you can bypass them totally and just run lines to the firewall which is the front heater.
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