coolant test - additive needed???
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: California
coolant test - additive needed???
Wondering when others have needed to add the coolant revitalizer to their systems.
I just had the 'check coolant additive' message come up for the second time @ 27,999 miles. Went by the dealer to have them check it. They only dipped the primary system reservoir. I was told that I should have the coolant system flushed/refilled as the strip indicates that it doesn't pass the last two tests.
I told them I'd add the coolant revitalizer myself. I purchased two quarts & planned to put just put to add to the primary & secondary systems. I figured no big deal to add revitalizer @ around 33k & 66k with a flush/refill @ 100k.
Now though......I'm wondering if they actually did interpreted the test correctly. I'm thinking I might be buying the strips & testing myself.....
I just had the 'check coolant additive' message come up for the second time @ 27,999 miles. Went by the dealer to have them check it. They only dipped the primary system reservoir. I was told that I should have the coolant system flushed/refilled as the strip indicates that it doesn't pass the last two tests.
I told them I'd add the coolant revitalizer myself. I purchased two quarts & planned to put just put to add to the primary & secondary systems. I figured no big deal to add revitalizer @ around 33k & 66k with a flush/refill @ 100k.
Now though......I'm wondering if they actually did interpreted the test correctly. I'm thinking I might be buying the strips & testing myself.....
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
Likes: 118
From: Tallassee, ALabama
I would question them as to the reason they say it needs flushed. What the actual test results where. Makes on wonder if they used the correct test strips for the orange ELC coolant.
If you buy the coolant revitalizer, make sure you get the VC-12.
The primary system requirements
48.0 fl. oz. (1.4L) per addition if required
Secondary system requirements
16 fl. oz. (473mL) per addition if required
If you buy the coolant revitalizer, make sure you get the VC-12.
The primary system requirements
48.0 fl. oz. (1.4L) per addition if required
Secondary system requirements
16 fl. oz. (473mL) per addition if required
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Senior User
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From: California
I guess I'm just not confident they did the test correctly and/or used the correct test strips.
I'm also questioning it because of my past experience with ELC. I changed out the Gold coolant in my 6.0 to Peak Final Charge. Had it in it for over 80k when I sold the truck. It was still testing good.
I guess it is possible I actually need the coolant revitalizer. I'm guessing they are saying flush/refill because it costs more money.
I'm also questioning it because of my past experience with ELC. I changed out the Gold coolant in my 6.0 to Peak Final Charge. Had it in it for over 80k when I sold the truck. It was still testing good.
I guess it is possible I actually need the coolant revitalizer. I'm guessing they are saying flush/refill because it costs more money.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
I fail to see why a truck with 105,000 mile coolant would need anything done that early. That's why I don't understand the check coolant light coming on at 15,000 miles for the first time. If the coolant is that unstable then maybe they should have stuck with the Ford Gold?
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 538
Likes: 45
From: Lansing, MI
I think the 15,000 mile light and subsequent lights are more for checking the coolant to make sure it hasn't been contaminated by someone topping it off with the wrong coolant type. If my memory serves me correct one test is for contaminants and the other to make sure the concentration of the active ingredient is sufficient to protect against freezing and boil over.
I checked both systems at 30K and both were good. At 60K next summer I'll check both again and probably add some revitalizer as I purchased it with my test strips a few years ago so have it on hand.
I checked both systems at 30K and both were good. At 60K next summer I'll check both again and probably add some revitalizer as I purchased it with my test strips a few years ago so have it on hand.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 85
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From: Fort Worth
I agree - the test can be a bit complicated ( I purchased both tests for myself). I have very little faith in the people that work for the dealership. 80% of the time I have had issues, so I am out of warranty and fine with that! Test it at another place or test it yourself -
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Senior User
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From: California
Just to update the thread/info.
Ordered the correct test strip kit from Acustrip. It is the ACU-R071 (also known as Ford Rotunda 328-071ELC). This kit is specifically for testing the amount of corrosion inhibitor in the coolant. I now know for sure that the dealer's mechanic didn't use the correct test strips. What the mechanic did was nothing like the procedure Acustrip instructions had me do. (example: putting the coolant sample in the vial & shaking it for 15 seconds)
As I think most of us expected, my coolant passed the test. In other words, the test showed that my coolant had a sufficient amount of corrosion inhibitor. No additive was needed.
As others have already said, if you have the dealer test, make sure the dealer uses the correct test strips & follows the correct procedures.
Ordered the correct test strip kit from Acustrip. It is the ACU-R071 (also known as Ford Rotunda 328-071ELC). This kit is specifically for testing the amount of corrosion inhibitor in the coolant. I now know for sure that the dealer's mechanic didn't use the correct test strips. What the mechanic did was nothing like the procedure Acustrip instructions had me do. (example: putting the coolant sample in the vial & shaking it for 15 seconds)
As I think most of us expected, my coolant passed the test. In other words, the test showed that my coolant had a sufficient amount of corrosion inhibitor. No additive was needed.
As others have already said, if you have the dealer test, make sure the dealer uses the correct test strips & follows the correct procedures.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
Likes: 118
From: Tallassee, ALabama
Here are photos of my test results
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 9,762
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Larry - That's the test my dealer used and I always passed after they realized they used the wrong one and added the wrong revitalizer to my 2011 6.7...
Which is what they were probably going to do to 2civicrr... Good catch 2civicrr...
Which is what they were probably going to do to 2civicrr... Good catch 2civicrr...
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Senior User
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From: California
Just for clarity on the coolant testing procedure as printed in the 2015 diesel supplement. I'm adding this post to the thread as there seems to be a change from the recommended/required test(s) in the 2011 printing.
There are two tests.
The first test is to test coolant concentration using the Rotunda tool 300–ROB75240 (refractometer). Same tool as the Robinair 75240.
The second test is uses the Rotunda 328-R071–ELC (Antifreeze Coolant ELC Contamination Kit). Same as the Accustrip ACU-RO71.
Note that there is no longer a test to check for the presence of nitrates. I can only think that they think people will no longer try use the wrong coolant or additives......
Looking around, it seems the Robinair 75240 is priced from approximately $45-$55. Hope that helps people with the current test(s) & testing equipment.
Added in edit for correct information: There is still a test for Nitrates. 3-Way HD Antifreeze Coolant Test Kit 328-2050-62291 or equivalent
There are two tests.
The first test is to test coolant concentration using the Rotunda tool 300–ROB75240 (refractometer). Same tool as the Robinair 75240.
The second test is uses the Rotunda 328-R071–ELC (Antifreeze Coolant ELC Contamination Kit). Same as the Accustrip ACU-RO71.
Note that there is no longer a test to check for the presence of nitrates. I can only think that they think people will no longer try use the wrong coolant or additives......
Looking around, it seems the Robinair 75240 is priced from approximately $45-$55. Hope that helps people with the current test(s) & testing equipment.
Added in edit for correct information: There is still a test for Nitrates. 3-Way HD Antifreeze Coolant Test Kit 328-2050-62291 or equivalent
Last edited by 2civicrr; Jan 4, 2017 at 12:49 AM. Reason: correct information
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,748
Likes: 118
From: Tallassee, ALabama
Just for clarity on the coolant testing procedure as printed in the 2015 diesel supplement. I'm adding this post to the thread as there seems to be a change from the recommended/required test(s) in the 2011 printing.
There are two tests.
The first test is to test coolant concentration using the Rotunda tool 300–ROB75240 (refractometer). Same tool as the Robinair 75240.
The second test is uses the Rotunda 328-R071–ELC (Antifreeze Coolant ELC Contamination Kit). Same as the Accustrip ACU-RO71.
Note that there is no longer a test to check for the presence of nitrates. I can only think that they think people will no longer try use the wrong coolant or additives......
Looking around, it seems the Robinair 75240 is priced from approximately $45-$55. Hope that helps people with the current test(s) & testing equipment.
There are two tests.
The first test is to test coolant concentration using the Rotunda tool 300–ROB75240 (refractometer). Same tool as the Robinair 75240.
The second test is uses the Rotunda 328-R071–ELC (Antifreeze Coolant ELC Contamination Kit). Same as the Accustrip ACU-RO71.
Note that there is no longer a test to check for the presence of nitrates. I can only think that they think people will no longer try use the wrong coolant or additives......
Looking around, it seems the Robinair 75240 is priced from approximately $45-$55. Hope that helps people with the current test(s) & testing equipment.
The 2015 and 2016 Ford Workshop DVDs do include the test for the Nitrates.
The test kit listed for Nitrates is
3-Way HD Antifreeze Coolant Test Kit 328-2050-62291 or equivalent
The contamination kit you list is correct
Antifreeze Coolant ELC Contamination Kit 328-R071-ELC or equivalent
As is the Robinair Battery/Coolant test refractormeter.
Battery/Coolant Refractometer ROB75240 or equivalent
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Senior User
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From: California
Larry,
Thanks for letting us know what the workshop dvd says. I checked my dvd & you are absolutely correct.
Please note that I cited the tests that were in the 2015 diesel supplement which is what owners are given and/or have access to as consumers. No where in any of the information we are given as 'owners' (2015 MY at least) does it specify the nitrate tests are needed. Why would Ford not let 'consumers' know there are still three tests?
Thanks for letting us know what the workshop dvd says. I checked my dvd & you are absolutely correct.
Please note that I cited the tests that were in the 2015 diesel supplement which is what owners are given and/or have access to as consumers. No where in any of the information we are given as 'owners' (2015 MY at least) does it specify the nitrate tests are needed. Why would Ford not let 'consumers' know there are still three tests?