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valve shimming?

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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 09:32 AM
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valve shimming?

Alright guys, was tooling with my quad and it hit me about doing this to our trucks. Does are valves have a bucket style where they need shimming(using stock springs)? I'll be "in there" early next month doing injector orings/coil shimming and thought, might as well check valve clearance.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 09:50 AM
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Geeesh!!

You KNOW that I'm doing the same planned work later this month... why... WHY do you have to ask these kinds of questions that might end up coercing me to do even MORE work and spend MORE money while I'm "in there"?

Seriously, though. Good question, even though I may not want to see the answers!
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 10:57 AM
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The lifters are hydraulic...so, I would think that unless you are upgrading to the heavy aftermarket springs....then no. You're fine.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 01:36 PM
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I agree with Dan. If you want more seat pressure you could add a shim. But check the clearance between the coils when the valve is open. This would in fact add pressure open and closed. If I were to do this, I'd change the springs instead.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 01:40 PM
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Unless you planned on upping the rev limiter or swapping to a hotter cam why would you do this?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 03:32 PM
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In relation to my quad, to reset the manufacture tolerance of the valves opening.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 03:50 PM
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I take all of these inputs to equal "No. Don't waste any time on this issue." At least for me, I'm happy with that. I've got enough to do already without adding to my "Do to truck" list.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
In relation to my quad, to reset the manufacture tolerance of the valves opening.
But the tappets, or lifters, in your quad are not hydraulic...they are solid...correct? In your quad my guess is they have a valve clearance spec. It is apples and oranges.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 10:12 PM
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When I went with the stronger 910 valve springs on mine, they came with a couple different shims. You chose which ones you wanted to install with the springs. When I pulled the stock ones out, I could compress them with my bare hand. I could not come close to compressing the 910s with my hand. Truck runs great with the 910s and my higher HP mods.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 08:14 AM
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Say something about this photo
Nick, besides the spring themselves and the shims, was there anything else in the "kit"...aka, buckets, caps..etc?
Found this last night....
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 08:46 AM
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[QUOTE=F250_;16794687]Geeesh!!

You KNOW that I'm doing the same planned work later this month... why... WHY do you have to ask these kinds of questions that might end up coercing me to do even MORE work and spend MORE money while I'm "in there"?


f250, ..e can't run out of ideas, or else the misses will have is doing things against our wils😉
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 08:55 AM
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I know... it's for our own good. I'm just giving you a hard time.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 10:14 AM
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The question I have is this. How are you planning on adjusting the valve lash? Shimming the springs is not going to change the lash.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2016 | 01:21 PM
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some ATV engines have pucks under tappet or tappet shims that ride on the cam to adjust the lash
 
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Old Dec 17, 2016 | 09:07 AM
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There are 2 types of shim that are associated with the valve train, valve spring shims can be used to get the correct installed height & therefore correct seat pressure, normally used with high performance valve springs.
Overhead camshaft engines sometimes use buckets with shims to set the valve lash.
Our trucks come with neither, but the former could be used if you're building something really hot.
HTH & happy Christmas to you all.
 
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