Needed to remove a pilot bearing from a crankshaft. Have read many times about this method, and finally got to try it.




I used wheel bearing grease. Kind of wish I had tried the bread trick instead. Less mess.


The grease was messy, but I covered with a rag and mostly limited the splash. I had a needle bearing, but it worked just as well. Both of these guys might have considered cutting the threads off the bolt for faster result.

 

Cutting off the threads was my very-first thought.

The closer the fit, the more pressure exerted behind the bearing or bushing.

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Thx Bill, but...


The FiberFix resin got on my skin. How do I get it off?


We're sorry to hear that, didja try your sawzall? If all else fails, any residue you can't get off will be gone after a couple days (along with your skin).

 

3.27-3.28 min is superduty dash

 

Good eyes, there, Justin!

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This is an endorsement more than a how-to. Have you guys tried these yet? My charming bride stopped into an O'Reilly's today and surprised me with a tub. I guess I've been leaving a bit of a mess around the sink lately. These work fantastic on your hands. Better than any waterless hand goop, and way more convenient too.

 

they work all right, good if your out and about and away from water. me personally i like regular "orange" hand cleaner, or lava brand (bar or liquid). as far as "waterless cleaners...meh don't care for them.

 

Drilling out rivets. EAA Video Player - Your Source for Aviation Videos

 

That whole EAA series could be helpful to amateur metal-workers.

Thanks for that URL, A&P.

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Agree Marv.

While on the topic, I've never seen this idea.

 

This guy has the Tao of Steve. Just need to add a little dry humor.

 

You may have seen the morning news about a house fire in Pacific Palisades. A total loss, of a million dollar plus home.


Now the preliminary report is that it was caused by spontaneous combustion of rags used by the homeowner while staining his deck.


In my experience, too few people know that this can happen, or they think it is a very rare thing that won't happen to them. Painters and woodworkers tend to know. The casual DIY'r often doesn't.


So I post this so that our FTE family won't make this mistake. Any paint or finish that cures by means of a chemical reaction can spontaneously combust. That includes the drying oils, like linseed or other penetrating oils, just about any varnish or urethane type of finish, and all oil based paints. Not only can the rags you used to apply or cleanup the products combust, but even the sanding dust from prepping surfaces can do this, particularly if you sweep it up into a pile. Often this kind of thing will happen when the rags are disposed of in trash cans. What makes this more sinister, is that often it will be many hours after you worked on a project, after you've gone home or to bed. No spark or other heat source is needed. The chemical reaction within the product creates its own heat. Obviously a lot of heat.

 

Very helpful Bill, thx.

 

The danger of this happening was taught to us in grammer school here in the LAUSD, but that was in the '50's.

Fat chance they still teach it yet today.

Which begs the question, "What DO they teach?"

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