Hiall,

Ijust purchased a new 2016 F-150 Crew Cab with the 5.0L V8 yesterday and afterdoing some looking around when I got home I am very upset. My previous truckwas a Toyota Tundra 5.7L and I was looking for something with a little bettertowing capacity and fuel economy. I went to the dealer expecting to go tosomething like a F-250 Super Duty, but was told that a F-150 with the 3.5LEcoboost would tow close to 12,000 lbs. As we were looking around, they had a2016 F-150 Crew Cab with the 5.0L V8. My first question was…what is the towingcapacity of this truck with the 5.0? Both salesman we were talking checked andcame back with “the towing capacity is 11,100 lbs”. I really liked the truckand ended it buying it based on the 11,100 lb towing and the 21mpg highway mpg.

WhenI got home I was learning about the truck and going by the specs., the Crew Cabwith the 5.0L V8 and 3.55 rear end has a tow capacity of only 9,000lbs. Is thisright? And if so do you think I have any recourse from being told the wronginformation? We pull a travel trailer that is about 5,600 lbs dry and I like tohave the extra capacity for my ATV’s and such.

Any help you can give me would be great.


Best regards

Jim

 

what does it say on the Drivers Door.. that is the real number. and only the real number.

you can try to return it.. pointing out your discussion with the salesman.. all salesmen LIE.. or deceive . or both. its ALL about the Sale.. my opinion.

 

Where does it state the towing capacity on the door? The tire and loading sticker shows the payload and air pressure. The federal sticker shows gross weights.

 

Check out this link. http://www.fleet.ford.com/towing-guides/

Also, check sticker inside driver's door for payload. That number usually runs out before towing capacity. Work backwards starting with available payload.

Good luck.

 

Things might not be as bad as you think. Sure, your salesman lied to you, and you were a sucker not to check on that yourself, but take a deep breath before you do something rash.

The 2016 F150 SuperCrew 4x4 with the 5.0L CAN be rated up to 10,800 lbs. Your truck differs from that truck in very few ways. Same transmission, same brakes, same brake controller, same integrated trailer stability control, same engine witht eh same power. Axle ratio and springs are the ONLY MEANINGFUL differences. You may sometimes need to drop down an extra gear, but that transmission is excellent, and it shouldn't worry you. If I was in your situation, I would just forget the tow capacity.

There's a chance you may run out of payload capacity, that's the only thing I would be worried about, and honestly, I wouldn't be loosing much sleep about that.

Enjoy your truck.

 

couldn't have said it better.


the only reason the 5.0 isn't rated higher in towing is because the 3.5 maxes out the capabilities of the truck, and in order to sell the 3.5 it has to be able to "do more" than the 5.0, or what's the point.


go back 6 years, and my 2010 with the 5.4 and 3.55's is rated to tow the same as your truck, yet it makes less power and has less torque.


they play so many games with those tow ratings, it is disgusting.


I would at least try it out before I took the hit on an early trade in. The 5.0 likes to rev to make the power, so don't be surprised if you are pulling hills at 4,000 rpm. that's where the power is.

 

If you want towing capacity check your owner manual. Start at page 263, then find where ever your truck falls. As a shortcut your Gross Combined Weight Rating ranges from 12000lbs to 16200lbs. Take however much your truck weighs, and subtract that from your GCWR.

 

He did that. That's how he knows he can tow 9000 pounds.

 

Then I suggest you correct the people telling him to check the door sticker for towing capacities.


To his questions: Congratulations, you were had by the dealer. Talk to a lawyer for recourse options. They will have a better idea of state and local laws. Odds are good you're stuck with your purchase. Learn from your mistakes, and do better research next time. Get what the dealer is saying in writing, otherwise everything they say is meaningless.

You say your trailer is 5600lbs dry, add about 1000 lbs for cargo and luggage leaving you with enough capacity in the trailer for three 700lb ATV's. You could probably put a fourth in the bed without issue. If your truck squats too much install airbags.

If you want to upgrade the capacity of your truck to max out your tow rating install a set of 3.73 gears in the axle, or axles if you drive a 4x4; along with the appropriate set of springs. Or, buy an old F250. My 1995 F250 has an 18500lb GCWR to my mother's 2016 F150 16100lb GCWR. Go whichever route is cheaper.

This is, of course, all limited by the trailer hitch you have installed.

 

Really? I did that. Chuck's First ford told him to check the door sticker. But I did go back and double check the federal sticker and make sure that the GCWR had not been added for this year.

 

Are you SURE the door sticker gives TOWING capacity? I thought it only had GVWR and gross axle ratings.
Also, in all those papers that you sign when you buy a vehicle you are agreeing that you are taking AS IS and no warrantees, express or implied, UNLESS noted and documented.

 

You're right.

 

Just reading back through this, it appears the OPs actual trailer weight loaded is never a known, just a guessimate. As we say so often, you gotta weigh it! Hard to tell if he even had a problem from the get-go.

And the OP has never posted back. Wonder if he is still following this thread?

Steve

 

Probably not.