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I was changing out my batteries today and the terminals are shot.
No more adjustment in them. Last time i did batteries this was the case so i was able to shave 1/16'' between where the two ends touch.
Well now I'm back to the same situation and I would like to replace all the terminals.
Any good ideas or brands to go with ? Not looking for the cheesy kind like walmart sells.
Also curious as to how i will do the positive connection on the passenger side where the two wires go into the one terminal.
Suggestions, ideas, photos are all appreciated !!!!!!
Thanks Denny !
If new cables were in the budget i would go that route for sure !!! But sadly not the case ! I found these https://www.delcity.net/store/Flag-B...inals/p_804157
They also come with straight, left and right elbow connections.
Wondering if anyone has had any experience with them or not.
I was in a similar position as you were not too long ago. I was going to go with a new set of cables from custombatterycables.com but instead opted to replace my terminals. I went with the military style terminal (Standard BP36P/BP36N) and soldered copper lugs onto the cables. Wonderful setup IMHO, much easier to add a cable in if needed, and wire it to a junction block, distribution post, or what have you. I will try and dig up the receipt to get exact costs/lug sizes. Total cost was less than $50 IIRC.
custom cable look nice but at 277 bucks that a lot of mula to me.. the 2/0 cable is nice but might be overkill for most. Anyone know the amp draw from batteries when starting and I think that mostly handled off the passenger side battery. ?? A 2/0 cable can handle 200 amps for a distance of 7 ft which I am guessing is more than a starter pulls for the what 10 seconds it takes to start.
I was in a similar position as you were not too long ago. I was going to go with a new set of cables from custombatterycables.com but instead opted to replace my terminals. I went with the military style terminal (Standard BP36P/BP36N) and soldered copper lugs onto the cables. Wonderful setup IMHO, much easier to add a cable in if needed, and wire it to a junction block, distribution post, or what have you. I will try and dig up the receipt to get exact costs/lug sizes. Total cost was less than $50 IIRC.
got info bud? As Baker did, ive shaved the clamps to get more force but have now, succumbed to a crack developing on the l99. Hate to pony up 3 bones for a wire loom where all thats needed are "ends".
Still not cheap if you need all 3, but OEM factory quality ... but if its only 1 that you need to replace its manageable and like most say if the originals made it 20 years....why go with anything else?
Still not cheap if you need all 3, but OEM factory quality ... but if its only 1 that you need to replace its manageable and like most say if the originals made it 20 years....why go with anything else?
Define cheap? I had one of the cables for my Excursion that was Obsoleted so I went with the F350 one. It seemed to hook up good except one of the leads that came out of the negative was a little different length. Granted it all worked out but here is my question. Parts are being obsoleted. What happens if they stop manufacturing it and the NOS are all done when you are ready? Is that still cheap? I'd get it today and install it while you can.
custom cable look nice but at 277 bucks that a lot of mula to me.. the 2/0 cable is nice but might be overkill for most. Anyone know the amp draw from batteries when starting and I think that mostly handled off the passenger side battery. ?? A 2/0 cable can handle 200 amps for a distance of 7 ft which I am guessing is more than a starter pulls for the what 10 seconds it takes to start.
for giggles one day i put my DC amp clamp on the positive cable by the starter and set it to store max reading.... on a 75*ish day in SoCal peak draw was ballpark 600amps. there is MANY factors in amp draw for just our trucks starter, but thats a one helluva cup of juice.
Define cheap? I had one of the cables for my Excursion that was Obsoleted so I went with the F350 one. It seemed to hook up good except one of the leads that came out of the negative was a little different length. Granted it all worked out but here is my question. Parts are being obsoleted. What happens if they stop manufacturing it and the NOS are all done when you are ready? Is that still cheap? I'd get it today and install it while you can.
In this case cheap would be the option that was discussed about reusing the cables and crimping/soldering ring ends while purchasing new military style screw terminals ....as the OP said he wasn’t looking at spending the $300 for the full custom cable replacement but this clocks in around $215 before shipping so that’s still significantly more than the new terminal option, however if it were only 1 or 2 that needed replaced presently perhaps the $60-100 price point would have been more in line with what the OP was willing to spend to correct the problem and still have OEM replacement.
Im a proponent of stocking/replacing as many wearable parts as my budget allows with OEM / mororcraft while we still have parts available to us but everyone’s budget is different.
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