Jammed ignition cylinder, how do i remove it?
#1
Jammed ignition cylinder, how do i remove it?
I just need to get the thing to where I can turn it over.
Ú
The cylinder turns and will turn on the glow plugs, but won't let the truck start.
How the hell do I get this lock cylinder out? I already pulled the steering wheel.
It's a 1990 F250 with a tilt column
Ú
The cylinder turns and will turn on the glow plugs, but won't let the truck start.
How the hell do I get this lock cylinder out? I already pulled the steering wheel.
It's a 1990 F250 with a tilt column
#3
#4
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove the plastic shrouds around the column.
Turn key to "ON" ("RUN") position.
Insert a small punch, awl, etc. into the cylinder release hole in the casting next to the side of the key cylinder casting barrel. This releases a spring-loaded pin that stops the key cylinder from being removed. With the pin held IN by constant pressure on the tool you are using, the other hand can pull out the cylinder. To re-install a cylinder, some you have to push the release pin in while installing, some just snap in, don't remember what years.
1990 was known for a plastic rack-piece that breaks/strips, that connects the rod that gets turned by the key cylinder, down to the actual ignition switch. Luckily, I never had a 1990
EDIT: You can look up the ignition key cylinder on Rockauto, one of the pics will show the side of the cylinder that has the spring-loaded pin sticking out the side. When installed, the pin sticks into the hole in the casting, preventing the cylinder from being removed. The pic will give you an idea of where to look on the casting for the hole to put the tool into.
The fact that you can turn the cylinder at all, shows that all the cylinder's locking pins ("tumblers", to some - but they're not, they are pins acting in pairs) are stacking up correctly, so I doubt your issue is the key cylinder itself... more likely what it is connected to. Maybe that plastic rack broke such that part of it is jamming when turning far enough forward. Just a guess.
#5
To get the key cylinder out:
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove the plastic shrouds around the column.
Turn key to "ON" ("RUN") position.
Insert a small punch, awl, etc. into the cylinder release hole in the casting next to the side of the key cylinder casting barrel. This releases a spring-loaded pin that stops the key cylinder from being removed. With the pin held IN by constant pressure on the tool you are using, the other hand can pull out the cylinder. To re-install a cylinder, some you have to push the release pin in while installing, some just snap in, don't remember what years.
1990 was known for a plastic rack-piece that breaks/strips, that connects the rod that gets turned by the key cylinder, down to the actual ignition switch. Luckily, I never had a 1990
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove the plastic shrouds around the column.
Turn key to "ON" ("RUN") position.
Insert a small punch, awl, etc. into the cylinder release hole in the casting next to the side of the key cylinder casting barrel. This releases a spring-loaded pin that stops the key cylinder from being removed. With the pin held IN by constant pressure on the tool you are using, the other hand can pull out the cylinder. To re-install a cylinder, some you have to push the release pin in while installing, some just snap in, don't remember what years.
1990 was known for a plastic rack-piece that breaks/strips, that connects the rod that gets turned by the key cylinder, down to the actual ignition switch. Luckily, I never had a 1990
#6
#7
To get the key cylinder out:
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove the plastic shrouds around the column.
Turn key to "ON" ("RUN") position.
Insert a small punch, awl, etc. into the cylinder release hole in the casting next to the side of the key cylinder casting barrel. This releases a spring-loaded pin that stops the key cylinder from being removed. With the pin held IN by constant pressure on the tool you are using, the other hand can pull out the cylinder. To re-install a cylinder, some you have to push the release pin in while installing, some just snap in, don't remember what years.
1990 was known for a plastic rack-piece that breaks/strips, that connects the rod that gets turned by the key cylinder, down to the actual ignition switch. Luckily, I never had a 1990
EDIT: You can look up the ignition key cylinder on Rockauto, one of the pics will show the side of the cylinder that has the spring-loaded pin sticking out the side. When installed, the pin sticks into the hole in the casting, preventing the cylinder from being removed. The pic will give you an idea of where to look on the casting for the hole to put the tool into.
The fact that you can turn the cylinder at all, shows that all the cylinder's locking pins ("tumblers", to some - but they're not, they are pins acting in pairs) are stacking up correctly, so I doubt your issue is the key cylinder itself... more likely what it is connected to. Maybe that plastic rack broke such that part of it is jamming when turning far enough forward. Just a guess.
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove the plastic shrouds around the column.
Turn key to "ON" ("RUN") position.
Insert a small punch, awl, etc. into the cylinder release hole in the casting next to the side of the key cylinder casting barrel. This releases a spring-loaded pin that stops the key cylinder from being removed. With the pin held IN by constant pressure on the tool you are using, the other hand can pull out the cylinder. To re-install a cylinder, some you have to push the release pin in while installing, some just snap in, don't remember what years.
1990 was known for a plastic rack-piece that breaks/strips, that connects the rod that gets turned by the key cylinder, down to the actual ignition switch. Luckily, I never had a 1990
EDIT: You can look up the ignition key cylinder on Rockauto, one of the pics will show the side of the cylinder that has the spring-loaded pin sticking out the side. When installed, the pin sticks into the hole in the casting, preventing the cylinder from being removed. The pic will give you an idea of where to look on the casting for the hole to put the tool into.
The fact that you can turn the cylinder at all, shows that all the cylinder's locking pins ("tumblers", to some - but they're not, they are pins acting in pairs) are stacking up correctly, so I doubt your issue is the key cylinder itself... more likely what it is connected to. Maybe that plastic rack broke such that part of it is jamming when turning far enough forward. Just a guess.
Trending Topics
#8
That could be. I've only seen pics of it. The Full-Size 1978-1996 Bronco Forum here has folks that have replaced those parts on 1990. I remember seeing pics, and pretty sure some text on how to get it centered properly. I didn't pay too much attention, as I have been spared at least THAT issue!
#9
I'm thinking the Youtube video 88_FORD linked to may be exactly your problem. Have you removed the plastic cowling around the steering column? Two screws accessible from the bottom side if I remember correctly.
Once you get that plastic cowling removed, take pliers and push that rod forward as the guy in the video does and see if your engine will crank over. If you find that rod broken, the part is called the ignition actuator rod. It's not easy to replace but doable.
Once you get that plastic cowling removed, take pliers and push that rod forward as the guy in the video does and see if your engine will crank over. If you find that rod broken, the part is called the ignition actuator rod. It's not easy to replace but doable.
#10
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,975
Received 3,102 Likes
on
2,164 Posts
#11
#12
#14
#15
I think I'm having the same problem as you.
I thought my key was just stuck and I can't get it out, but it is more than that.
I can't turn the key far enough back or to the accessory position, so I can pull the key out.
This just came out of nowhere, it was working fine, then not any more, and of course it has to do it in these freezing temps. not when it's nice and warm out.
It's on my 93 F-250, what do I have to do to fix this problem?
Thanks in advance.
I thought my key was just stuck and I can't get it out, but it is more than that.
I can't turn the key far enough back or to the accessory position, so I can pull the key out.
This just came out of nowhere, it was working fine, then not any more, and of course it has to do it in these freezing temps. not when it's nice and warm out.
It's on my 93 F-250, what do I have to do to fix this problem?
Thanks in advance.