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Jammed ignition cylinder, how do i remove it?

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Old 12-10-2016, 05:55 PM
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Jammed ignition cylinder, how do i remove it?

I just need to get the thing to where I can turn it over.
Ú
The cylinder turns and will turn on the glow plugs, but won't let the truck start.

How the hell do I get this lock cylinder out? I already pulled the steering wheel.

It's a 1990 F250 with a tilt column
 
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Old 12-10-2016, 06:03 PM
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Old 12-10-2016, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 88_F0RD
I don't think it's the pin. The key still does stuff, it just won't engage the starter. I don't mind starting the thing with a screwdriver, I just don't want to have to drill out my ignition cylinder .
 
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Old 12-10-2016, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselCamper
...........How the hell do I get this lock cylinder out? I already pulled the steering wheel.

It's a 1990 F250 with a tilt column
To get the key cylinder out:
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove the plastic shrouds around the column.
Turn key to "ON" ("RUN") position.
Insert a small punch, awl, etc. into the cylinder release hole in the casting next to the side of the key cylinder casting barrel. This releases a spring-loaded pin that stops the key cylinder from being removed. With the pin held IN by constant pressure on the tool you are using, the other hand can pull out the cylinder. To re-install a cylinder, some you have to push the release pin in while installing, some just snap in, don't remember what years.

1990 was known for a plastic rack-piece that breaks/strips, that connects the rod that gets turned by the key cylinder, down to the actual ignition switch. Luckily, I never had a 1990

EDIT: You can look up the ignition key cylinder on Rockauto, one of the pics will show the side of the cylinder that has the spring-loaded pin sticking out the side. When installed, the pin sticks into the hole in the casting, preventing the cylinder from being removed. The pic will give you an idea of where to look on the casting for the hole to put the tool into.

The fact that you can turn the cylinder at all, shows that all the cylinder's locking pins ("tumblers", to some - but they're not, they are pins acting in pairs) are stacking up correctly, so I doubt your issue is the key cylinder itself... more likely what it is connected to. Maybe that plastic rack broke such that part of it is jamming when turning far enough forward. Just a guess.
 
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Old 12-11-2016, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Torky2
To get the key cylinder out:
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove the plastic shrouds around the column.
Turn key to "ON" ("RUN") position.
Insert a small punch, awl, etc. into the cylinder release hole in the casting next to the side of the key cylinder casting barrel. This releases a spring-loaded pin that stops the key cylinder from being removed. With the pin held IN by constant pressure on the tool you are using, the other hand can pull out the cylinder. To re-install a cylinder, some you have to push the release pin in while installing, some just snap in, don't remember what years.

1990 was known for a plastic rack-piece that breaks/strips, that connects the rod that gets turned by the key cylinder, down to the actual ignition switch. Luckily, I never had a 1990
Is it "on"? I thought it was accessories position? Would a paperclip not be strong enough to engage the pin?
 
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Old 12-11-2016, 12:36 AM
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I'm pretty sure it's "ON", though I occasionally have brain dropouts

A paper clip is a bit wimpy, I've always used something stouter, that I was sure was pressing in good and solid.

See all of my EDIT above.
 
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Old 12-11-2016, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Torky2
To get the key cylinder out:
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Remove the plastic shrouds around the column.
Turn key to "ON" ("RUN") position.
Insert a small punch, awl, etc. into the cylinder release hole in the casting next to the side of the key cylinder casting barrel. This releases a spring-loaded pin that stops the key cylinder from being removed. With the pin held IN by constant pressure on the tool you are using, the other hand can pull out the cylinder. To re-install a cylinder, some you have to push the release pin in while installing, some just snap in, don't remember what years.

1990 was known for a plastic rack-piece that breaks/strips, that connects the rod that gets turned by the key cylinder, down to the actual ignition switch. Luckily, I never had a 1990

EDIT: You can look up the ignition key cylinder on Rockauto, one of the pics will show the side of the cylinder that has the spring-loaded pin sticking out the side. When installed, the pin sticks into the hole in the casting, preventing the cylinder from being removed. The pic will give you an idea of where to look on the casting for the hole to put the tool into.

The fact that you can turn the cylinder at all, shows that all the cylinder's locking pins ("tumblers", to some - but they're not, they are pins acting in pairs) are stacking up correctly, so I doubt your issue is the key cylinder itself... more likely what it is connected to. Maybe that plastic rack broke such that part of it is jamming when turning far enough forward. Just a guess.
The other thing it could be I think, is that the little gear that goes in the end of the ignition cylinder that engages things came out at one point, and I didn't know exactly where it was supposed to start, so I figure it might not be centered right so the ignition cylinder and the gear aren't in the right place if that makes sense. I could always start it using a screwdriver, but I don't know why it's weird now.
 
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Old 12-11-2016, 12:59 AM
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That could be. I've only seen pics of it. The Full-Size 1978-1996 Bronco Forum here has folks that have replaced those parts on 1990. I remember seeing pics, and pretty sure some text on how to get it centered properly. I didn't pay too much attention, as I have been spared at least THAT issue!
 
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Old 12-11-2016, 03:18 AM
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I'm thinking the Youtube video 88_FORD linked to may be exactly your problem. Have you removed the plastic cowling around the steering column? Two screws accessible from the bottom side if I remember correctly.

Once you get that plastic cowling removed, take pliers and push that rod forward as the guy in the video does and see if your engine will crank over. If you find that rod broken, the part is called the ignition actuator rod. It's not easy to replace but doable.
 
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Old 12-11-2016, 08:46 AM
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ignition actuator. not actuator rod. the actuator rod is what goes from the actuator down to the ignition switch.
 
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Old 12-17-2016, 05:58 PM
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So I tried putting a punch in the hole, did nothing. Might have been to small.

It's too cold out to check again (-9F), but if a punch will not get it out of the column, any other ideas?
 
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Old 12-17-2016, 06:14 PM
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get another steering column?

I had to do that once for a Jeep I had,

the key cylinder just would not come out.

shouldnt be too hard to remove the whole steering column and replace,

could probably get another one for $50 from a junkyard.
 
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Old 12-17-2016, 08:13 PM
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I just replaced that chunk of the column for the same reason

you can have it if you want
 
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Old 12-17-2016, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Rollingscrapmetal
I just replaced that chunk of the column for the same reason

you can have it if you want
That would be awesome. How much do you think shipping would be?

It doesn't still have the lock cylinder in it does it?
 
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:08 PM
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I think I'm having the same problem as you.
I thought my key was just stuck and I can't get it out, but it is more than that.
I can't turn the key far enough back or to the accessory position, so I can pull the key out.
This just came out of nowhere, it was working fine, then not any more, and of course it has to do it in these freezing temps. not when it's nice and warm out.
It's on my 93 F-250, what do I have to do to fix this problem?
Thanks in advance.
 


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