Jammed ignition cylinder, how do i remove it?
#16
12-20-2016, 12:10 PM
I think I'm having the same problem as you.
I thought my key was just stuck and I can't get it out, but it is more than that.
I can't turn the key far enough back or to the accessory position, so I can pull the key out.
This just came out of nowhere, it was working fine, then not any more, and of course it has to do it in these freezing temps. not when it's nice and warm out.
It's on my 93 F-250, what do I have to do to fix this problem?
Thanks in advance.
I thought my key was just stuck and I can't get it out, but it is more than that.
I can't turn the key far enough back or to the accessory position, so I can pull the key out.
This just came out of nowhere, it was working fine, then not any more, and of course it has to do it in these freezing temps. not when it's nice and warm out.
It's on my 93 F-250, what do I have to do to fix this problem?
Thanks in advance.
Hey guys, I think you were right about the ignition actuator. What's the best way to pull the rest of the steering column stuff? Or the best walk through yall have seen?
#17
12-20-2016, 12:29 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,975
Received 3,101 Likes
on
2,163 Posts
here ya go Ben.
Originally Posted by jas88:
This is my personal write-up from the last time I did mine:
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
Originally Posted by jas88:
This is my personal write-up from the last time I did mine:
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
#18
12-20-2016, 12:41 PM
here ya go Ben.
Originally Posted by jas88:
This is my personal write-up from the last time I did mine:
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
Originally Posted by jas88:
This is my personal write-up from the last time I did mine:
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
Also, how is the weight going? I haven't been frequenting FTE in a long time.
#19
12-20-2016, 02:11 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,975
Received 3,101 Likes
on
2,163 Posts
me thinks you are on the rite track with the actuator. if you want to go one step further to test, take the ignition switch down from the column and push the rod hole in the switch to see if it engages the starter. if it does, 99.999% the problem is the actuator.
the weight loss is going the wrong way. sitting on my asterisk all day long with no exercise has me back up to 290.
the weight loss is going the wrong way. sitting on my asterisk all day long with no exercise has me back up to 290.
#20
12-20-2016, 03:54 PM
me thinks you are on the rite track with the actuator. if you want to go one step further to test, take the ignition switch down from the column and push the rod hole in the switch to see if it engages the starter. if it does, 99.999% the problem is the actuator.
the weight loss is going the wrong way. sitting on my asterisk all day long with no exercise has me back up to 290.
the weight loss is going the wrong way. sitting on my asterisk all day long with no exercise has me back up to 290.
Can ya point me to what you mean by the rod hole in the switch? I'm not totally sure
Can you
#21
12-20-2016, 04:23 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,975
Received 3,101 Likes
on
2,163 Posts
when you take the ignition switch down from the column, you will see where the rod that goes up through the column goes into the switch. when you turn the key, it pushes the rod down which moves the switch.
with the switch off the column but plugged in, you can move the slider on the switch where the rod goes and manually start the truck.
i usually use a small screwdriver to move the switch slider.
with the switch off the column but plugged in, you can move the slider on the switch where the rod goes and manually start the truck.
i usually use a small screwdriver to move the switch slider.
#22
12-21-2016, 12:18 PM
when you take the ignition switch down from the column, you will see where the rod that goes up through the column goes into the switch. when you turn the key, it pushes the rod down which moves the switch.
with the switch off the column but plugged in, you can move the slider on the switch where the rod goes and manually start the truck.
i usually use a small screwdriver to move the switch slider.
with the switch off the column but plugged in, you can move the slider on the switch where the rod goes and manually start the truck.
i usually use a small screwdriver to move the switch slider.
#23
12-21-2016, 12:40 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 60,975
Received 3,101 Likes
on
2,163 Posts
#24
12-21-2016, 03:38 PM
I did unscrew the blinker stalk and there is no 10mm bolt there, there's like a 5 mm bolt or some tiny size like that
#25
10-06-2017, 02:08 PM
Can't turn ignition back from ON
This is for a ford F250 2006
the key came out while the truck was running and now the key won't go back in
ive had to pull the fuel pump fuse to turn the vehicle off
ive drilled out the bottom pin thinking the cylinder should just pull out but I can't pull it out
please help
my van is already down and this is my sisters truck I borrowed
the key came out while the truck was running and now the key won't go back in
ive had to pull the fuel pump fuse to turn the vehicle off
ive drilled out the bottom pin thinking the cylinder should just pull out but I can't pull it out
please help
my van is already down and this is my sisters truck I borrowed
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
march
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
20
01-02-2014 07:46 AM
48fordf3
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
10-27-2010 03:32 AM