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I wonder what engine work stand is suitable for I6/300 engine?. I bought one yesterday but I could not fit on the engine. It is Taiwan made U shape AX0010 with P/N 32017.
It is 02:00 PM down here, excuse me if this is late for you, but I wish if their is a pic, the bellousing bolts are at the top and sides, non in the bottom to make the load even on the stand attaching plate.
Btw it is 3 Am here but I'm up late due to being a college student needing to study for a bunch of tests I have tomorrow. I needed a break from all of it anyway.
A common mistake is to mount the block so the crank is on the same axis as the stand pivot. Mount the engine so the crank is a few inches below the axis of the stand so the center of gravity is roughly co linear with the pivot axis. That way the engine will not have a tendency to topple over when rotated on the stand.
Yes, that what happened with me, the engine is not straight mounted on the stand, looks like it is going to fall of the stand, don't know why, just the attaching bolts are not distributed evenly. I cannot rotate the engine 360Deg. see the pics and post your comments.
I ran into this when building a 7.3 IDI on an stand that seemed slightly sub par. It had enough of a weight rating, I just would have preferred longer legs. To get around it, I just used the engine hoist/crane to hold up the front end of it. I ran a few old head bolts into the front and chained them up to the hoist. To flip the motor, I had to remove the chain, turn it over, then reconnect. The stand had enough to hold the motor, I was just concerned it would tip if I had to put too much torque during the build.
I know this is a little old but because no one gave an answer and it may help someone later on I will try and help.
In the picture below you have the stand head on the motor upside down or 180 out. The 2 angled bolt slots go to the top of the motor. Where you have the 2 bolts in now are the ones you use.
The other 2 that go out to the sides go to the lower outside bolt holes. I can see 1 hole the arm should go into, the other arm should go in the same hole on the other side.
Also as a starting point to get the motor centered so you can rotate it the center of the stand head would be close to the cam center line.
I bolt the arms loosely in the bell housing holes first then bolt the stand head to the arms. With every thing hand tight I then center the stand head where I need it then tighten all bolts. A little oil or grease on the stand head tube so you can rotate it easy and slide it into the stand base making sure I use the pin to keep it from turning.
How the arms should be
Dave ----
ps: I do have 1 cheap stand I bought to only hold a motor for degreasing and painting because my other 2 stands had motors on them, anyway the head/arms did not fit it right so I could not get the motor centered to rotate it. It did not even sit straight up it was a little off to 1 side.
Hi,
I had this problem when mounting my 4.9l to a stand of similar design, I found that you have to make sure to lock the head in place first with the pin then center the engine using a cherry picker / chain fall and make sure that you move the sliding arms that bolt to the bell housing holes so that they are symmetrical (evenly spaced) so that it holds the engine properly and straight. It is a little challenging which sounds funny but the way the bolt pattern is you really have to take your time and get it lined up right then get everything tight BEFORE you try to rotate, then it will work fine. I did it with a complete engine intakes and all what FUN.
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