Trying to avoid spending a lump of money. I just spent 2k on a trans rebuild about a month ago

 

I could be wrong but I think there was a replacement of the turbo oil feed line on the '03 motors and also the turbo oil drain tube.


It sounds like your turbo bearings are seized due to heat caused by a loss of lubrication flow on the input or the output side of the turbo bearings. Without the turbo spinning you will have a significant drop in power. Basically you are baking the turbo unevenly each time you drive the truck, not a metallurgist but I can guess that the situation is not ideal though the most important parts being your turbo bearings are already destroyed.

The '03 turbo and turbo pedestal and intake manifold (holding the turbo pedestal) are unique to '03 motors, all three components replaced on '04 and above motors.

Risks are many, here a few that come to mind:
- By running the motor you are at risk of fire on the firewall as heat builds at the exhaust side of the turbo.
- By running the motor you are at risk that a sliver of bearing material comes free and drops into the motor, so I would not attempt to spin the turbo. This could grenade many components in the block.

Good luck.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DXLSM5M/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481665122&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=03+6.0+turbo+rebuild&dpPl =1&dpID=51w%2BU9AfIwL&ref=plSrch




87crewdually is this every thing I need to rebuild it? i see many rebuild kits they're all different components

 

I would of removed it by now to check what's binding and to verify if it is just worn bushings.
That appears to be the correct kit. Don't forget the updated drain I talked about in post #6. I'm not sure if the new hard feedline fits the early 03's.
DRAINTUBE

Did you have oil coming out of the feedline?

 

Correct, the early build turbo rear bolt is vertical and higher up vs horizontal for the later build, later being the easier one to remove simply due to the lack of room back there when they are rusted stuck or really stubborn and a cheater bar is needed.

 

I didn't get a chance to mess with it last night. I'm going to check tonight when I get home. If I'm not getting oil to the turbo, whats this mean. what should I check next. Sorry if I'm asking to much, just trying to learn and get my truck running right again. thanks everyone.

 

If no or low oil flow to the turbo then it's possible the line is bad.
You need to also be concerned with the drain tube. The first version had a kinky bend in it that would let oil coke up and burn and over time could clog the tube from draining.
Let's get the unit off and inspect to know for sure what went wrong. How many miles on this engine/turbo?

 

[QUOTE=87crewdually;16791827]If no or low oil flow to the turbo then it's possible the line is bad.
You need to also be concerned with the drain tube. The first version had a kinky bend in it that would let oil coke up and burn and over time could clog the tube from draining.
Let's get the unit off and inspect to know for sure what went wrong. How many miles on this engine/turbo?[/QUOTE



it's got 220k everything's stock except injectors and trans rebuild. I did notice oil build up under the turbo, and inside the intake pipe right at the beginning of turbo is like a black oily tar. almost like what you would use to seal a roof on a mobile home.

 

The oil under the turbo doesn't look fresh though looks as if it's been accumulating over time.

 

In your case I would not try to rebuild the turbo yourself, just replace it with the one Jack (Too Many Toys) referenced above and make sure, even if your are getting oil out of the turbo oil feed line to update it with the new solid line and the updated drain tube as well, you will be money ahead in the long run.

 

Is it possible that it just needs a good cleaning? I almost got it out only do like 30 minutes a night wotk8ng on it. But but I sprayed it with carb cleaner and it has the play it supposed to and spins freely with no problems I'm going to take it out on Saturday when i have time and check out the internals. from what I can tell everything seems to be alright. And and I do have oil com8ng through the feed line sprayed everywhere the cup didn't work lol. Is it possible it got stuck because I didn't let the truck completely warm up before driving it the day it happened and I'm a little past due for an oil change.

 

Just because you have broken free the turbo and it spins freely does not indicate that it will work, or work for long. Significant rotation that relies on unrestricted flow of oil across good bearing surfaces - at minimum your oil flow has to be validated and those bearing surfaces are potentially pitted from a seizure which will generate excessive heat and fail again.

How overdue for an oil change are you?

Other thoughts:
It would take something sizable like a bolt or a wooden dowel jammed into the turbo to prevent it from turning, or seized bearings.

A bit of grime on the turbo intake tube is probably not enough to cause bearing seizure or stop the turbo from spinning. It might induce some minor cosmetic wear over time, but not enough to stop the turbo from spinning. That grim comes from the crankcase ventilation which is a connection between the turbo intake tube and the drivers valve cover.

In theory, the Oil filter will remove most particles large enough to cause problems on the internals of the motor or the turbo bearings - BUT, the oil filter itself degrades over time and can release particles into the oil path, that could flow directly to the turbo bearings. This is one of the many reasons folks are so passionate about changing oil and filter frequently.

 

that makes sense, I'll check it out Saturday. And and it's been 6000 miles since the oil has been changed.

 

Okay guys so I changed the turbo changed the oil, put new coolant in. Started truck up took a few cranks then it started died out. It's been about a month since it's been ran so kinda usual I thought. So cranked it again and it started was letting oil and coolant pump around then it started making kind of a weird noise sounded like air not metal or a clicking so I **** shut it off as it was getting louder but now truck won't start any ideas.? I was reading a form earlier on powerstroke.org. And a guy had similar problem after turbo swap but his didn't start at all some one replied to him saying " the air in the high pressure oil system has to be bled out. There is supposed to be a fuse for the ficm. That you can pull then crank over a bit and replace the fuse and it should be good to go. So ima try that in the morning any one got any other ideas or suggestions to look into? Thanks

 

The FICM relay is #302 in the box drivers side firewall.