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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 11:04 PM
  #46  
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Randy,

Part of my hangup of all my vids is when I upgraded my software on both my iPad and iPhone it opened the gates to iCloud. And while it may have taken days to upload to the sky, my home connection is so slow I get timed out trying to retrieve those back. Unless I hang in the middle of HD as a guest. Somehow though, I can view the one vid on my iPhone without downloading. I'll show it to you.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 11:11 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by BjornF16
My first thought when reading the service manual regarding glow plugs was: I'm glad I didn't get the 14.9v DC Power alternator.
Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
I've seen up to 14.7 with the L-N.
Might be something to keep an eye out for.

On the GPCM it is basically a bunch of solid state relays that also
have a controller in the same housing. The controller gives feedback
to the PCM if one of the plugs is out of expected range.

Do the older trucks with the solid buss bar set a code for each bad
plug or just for the side? (being lazy I could look it up).

One other thing to toss at you all. Anyone know what RPM they test
the rotating assemble in the alternator up to?

I just don't want to read about some guy over speeding it and having
it fly apart and cause problems or huts someone.


Now some speculation. You would think that if the GPCM can monitor
the outputs that it could also tell the PCM that it is off do to high input voltage.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2016 | 11:57 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Do the older trucks with the solid buss bar set a code for each bad plug or just for the side? (being lazy I could look it up).
Just for the bank. And most older trucks don't even have that. My understanding is that the shunt (if that is what you meant by buss bar) was only on California Emissions equipped trucks.


Originally Posted by Yahiko
One other thing to toss at you all. Anyone know what RPM they test the rotating assemble in the alternator up to?
I just don't want to read about some guy over speeding it and having
it fly apart and cause problems or huts someone.
The big black L-N that a few of us have has a continuous RPM rating of 12,000 RPM (alternator RPM... divide by pulley ratio to derive engine rpm). The intermittent RPM rating is 14,000 RPM, with a 1% MAXIMUM duty cycle at 14K. The 230 amp output rating is taken at 6,000 RPM.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 12:18 AM
  #49  
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I got to thinking about the MAX rpm back when I went to the smaller pulley
on my 140A that I have now. If the UPS package gets here early I might take
the truck over and see just what speed that 140 is turning at.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 05:30 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
I've seen up to 14.7 with the L-N.
But you're running undersized pulley?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 06:01 AM
  #51  
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I've run both back and forth for my testing.

I'm not too worried that companies like Ford, Bosch or L-N would not have designed and tested for max engine rpm and a margin.

Thanks for posting the L-N spec Y2K.

Pulley ratios for both 7.3 and 6.0 for 2003 are in the service manual page in my post #20.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 11:30 AM
  #52  
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Here's a tid-bit of info from Remy. So according to the article, what I see is normal for a stock situation and one can expect to see the low voltage readings during initial startup while glow plugs are operating.
here's the link: Remy Upgrade Helps Solve 6.0L Ford Low Voltage Concerns | Remy Auto Parts
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 12:18 PM
  #53  
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Pete,

I agree with all that, and that's the way I thought everything stood.

Maybe I took what you were saying in the wrong context at the start of this discussion and we've developed a long thread about nothing. I thought the point you were driving was that the reason for the low volts on later models was the PCM controlled the main alternator to be off, until the GPs were off, or a 10-15 second delay. That I don't see, but with the initial high current to the batteries until they slow down acceptance, the volts can be low, even with a 140a.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 12:31 PM
  #54  
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87Crewdually - perhaps Ford installed anemic alternators by design, to save the glow plugs.

To the extent that the alternator in Remy's example is not capable of producing any more than 1400 watts, which ultimately drags system voltage down during glow plug demand because the alternator can't keep up, there is a built in restriction of available power that the glow plugs can greedily consume... a power deficit that could prevent them from burning out quicker.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 12:49 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
Pete,

I agree with all that, and that's the way I thought everything stood.

Maybe I took what you were saying in the wrong context at the start of this discussion and we've developed a long thread about nothing. I thought the point you were driving was that the reason for the low volts on later models was the PCM controlled the main alternator to be off, until the GPs were off, or a 10-15 second delay. That I don't see, but with the initial high current to the batteries until they slow down acceptance, the volts can be low, even with a 140a.
You got me right Jack. Like I stated earlier awhile back, I think I got the info mixed up as far as the PCM controlling the main, when actually it controls the second one in a dual alternator configuration.
As far as glow plugs go I'm not commenting only because I don't KNOW much pass diagnosis. An IDI diesel system I'm much more familiar but that doesn't help since the systems are different since they were all linked together to the solid state controller that read resistance in the plugs themselves to figure on time. On those if you had a quick flash of the wait light usually meant you had 2 or more glow plugs bad.
I'm not concerned with glow plugs on these. All I'll say is ONLY USE MOTORCRAFT PLUGS. So many people for affordability and convenience have used an aftermarket plug in the IDI's and they do not last. the tips would swell and get stuck and break off in the cumbustion cup. Then the tip would fall in the cylinder and get consumed usually damaging valves and or piston tops. So I still preach MOTORCRAFT Beru plugs only.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 01:20 PM
  #56  
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Oh, I agree with only using the Motorcraft plugs.

It became an interesting thread though. The entire anemic alternator/PCM controlling discussion is what got me started doing the alternator video like 16 months ago, actually I think more. And I'm still not done with the damn thing. There'll be two owners of 6.0 by the time I finish.

Y2K, if I can hang out in a high speed WiFi access long enough to download from my cloud I can show how the 6.0 PCM limits it. I know I'll at least be able to show Randy.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 11:56 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
I've seen up to 14.7 with the L-N.
After running a few tests today, I'm very curious to know what the circumstances were when you saw 14.7 on the L-N?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 03:03 AM
  #58  
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Don't forget the loss of about 0.5V with the SGII.
If that was the tool doing the reading then that might
add some to that amount.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 10:29 AM
  #59  
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As before,

Volts; Glow Plug amps; time; Alternator amps. Recorded March 10, 2016.

For higher resolution, tap the top YouTube label, and in YouTube up the quality off the top right three dots.

 
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 10:31 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Don't forget the loss of about 0.5V with the SGII.
If that was the tool doing the reading then that might
add some to that amount.
That is a significant voltage drop.
 
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