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Carb wasn't getting gas for some reason so I tried pouring some directly in and still wouldn't start. Finally I took a wrench and banged the fuel pump a couple times. Put in some gas in the carb and it started and idled fine. Hasn't had a problem since then I have started it again in normal temperature I.E. 60 degrees. Guess it was a fuel pump issue but does not make sense since I replaced the pump about 8 or so months ago.
Sounds like you have more than one problem. 2X on changing all the rubber fuel hoses. And I'm betting you still have points and condenser. If I'm right then you ought to change the condenser for a Ford Motorcraft one. V8 and I6 take part number C9AZ12300A (DC13A). Still available from Ford. We've had a gazzilion bad condensers on this forum the past couple of years. New and used.
Sounds like you have more than one problem. 2X on changing all the rubber fuel hoses. And I'm betting you still have points and condenser. If I'm right then you ought to change the condenser for a Ford Motorcraft one. V8 and I6 take part number C9AZ12300A (DC13A). Still available from Ford. We've had a gazzilion bad condensers on this forum the past couple of years. New and used.
I took a look at the rubber fuel hoses. None that I could see have any cracks but they do look very old so I'll get around to changing them even if they aren't the problem. Have to wait until I am home from college though. Can't do much in a dormatory parking lot. What does a condenser do exactly? I've never changed mine and frankly I've never heard of it
I took a look at the rubber fuel hoses. None that I could see have any cracks but they do look very old so I'll get around to changing them even if they aren't the problem. Have to wait until I am home from college though. Can't do much in a dormatory parking lot. What does a condenser do exactly? I've never changed mine and frankly I've never heard of it
The ign switch sends voltage to the + side of the coil. This voltage goes through the primary windings in the coil, creating a magnetic field in the coil, then back out the - terminal to the points and condenser in the Dizzy. Then to ground. When the points are closed the magnetic field grows. When the points open the condenser stores the EMF (Electromagnetic Field) coming from the primary windings in the coil as the magnetic field inside it crashes. This crash causes the higher voltage to come out of the coil via the secondary windings connected to the coil wire. Coil wire to Dizzy cap, then to spark plugs. I found this on google so you can see what I just typed. "A picture is worth a 1000 words".
Thanks Brian. Actually I got lucky. I did know already how it worked from High School Auto Mechanics 1973 1/2-75. But I goggled it thinking it would be quicker to copy and paste some one else's paragraph rather than typing all I did. Since I'm here at work. I'm pretty quick typing with my 2 finger poke method but....EEH. Then I found that video and things changed.
The condensor (capacitor) prevents arcing at the points themselves and increases the quality of the spark at the plugs. They have to handle a few hundred volts, not 12 volts as one might expect. The new ones are junk, mostly. If the truck is running good, leave it alone, even when its point replacement time.
I took it into one of the shops that works on old cars in town. They said it is probably a choke adjustment problem. I am going to have my brother look at it because he knows more than I do and it will save me money. I'll keep you guys updated
Update: my brother took a look, its not a gas problem so that's good. However it is a choke problem that he is going to have to look at when I come home from break for school. Also my air fuel ratio screws are all out of whack, does anyone know the proper way to set them up? I know sometimes you HAVE to hook up gauges but there have been times I have heard you can do it manually. Even with gauges does someone know how to do it? I am a mechanical newby and only know about the things I have had to fix In the past. Thanks!
Turn one screw in until it slows down then out until it slows down then put the screw in the middle. Same with the other side. First set the idle speed a slow as it'll idle. If it dies when putting into gear increase the idle speed.
Ya want to learn about how to do this light tinkering to fix your truck, ya got a get a manual that covers your vehicle & make time to read it then you'll be as smart as us.
Many times people forget about the rubber flex line joining the tank hard line to the frame hard line where it can crack an suck air causing a fuel starvation. Or a fuel leakage when parked.
Orich
And they can suck air but not leak fuel. I always check fuel delivery issues by putting a vacuum pump and a catch jar at the fuel inlet line by the pump. Any bubbles and poor return mean sucking air.
Update: my brother took a look, its not a gas problem so that's good. However it is a choke problem that he is going to have to look at when I come home from break for school. Also my air fuel ratio screws are all out of whack, does anyone know the proper way to set them up? I know sometimes you HAVE to hook up gauges but there have been times I have heard you can do it manually. Even with gauges does someone know how to do it? I am a mechanical newby and only know about the things I have had to fix In the past. Thanks!
boy howdy, you just stepped on a yard mine.
I can think of three different ways to get that done, from po boy ways to scientific ways. Give me a call, I'll tell ya about em. 469-371-5833
I used to have the same problem. Got rid of the points and dropped in a Pertronix replacement. Fixed my idle and gained another 500 rpm on the top end!
Hey guys, sorry for lack of communication I have been super busy with finals. I worked on the mixture screws and fixed them and now the truck does not die anymore! However the choke is still acting up but now that I am home I will have the tools and resources to be able to work on it. Thanks for all the help. I will let you know how the choke adjustments go.