FRONT BRAKE DRIVERS SIDE OUCH OUCH OUCH
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,787
Likes: 102
From: Georgia
Hey guys thanks great input. I spend a lot of money to make sure I'm never in cold weather. Truck tows heavy but has been babied otherwise. 42,000 miles. The pistons move freely in the caliper with a c clamp.
I think I'll give it a go. But I would sure like to know what happened. Those rubbers on the calipers look like they are torn not melted, agree?? The inside rotor surface is fine, a stuck caliper would have torn up both sides right? So, most likely answer is something got caught in there and caused the damage, right?
If that's the case I'll replace pads on both sides, turn (I hope) damaged rotor. Replace damaged caliper with brand new from Ford. Anybody see a need to replace the other caliper?
I'll stay out of the brake fluid discussion. I'm gonna change a good bit of it anyway. Thanks again for the input.
I think I'll give it a go. But I would sure like to know what happened. Those rubbers on the calipers look like they are torn not melted, agree?? The inside rotor surface is fine, a stuck caliper would have torn up both sides right? So, most likely answer is something got caught in there and caused the damage, right?
If that's the case I'll replace pads on both sides, turn (I hope) damaged rotor. Replace damaged caliper with brand new from Ford. Anybody see a need to replace the other caliper?
I'll stay out of the brake fluid discussion. I'm gonna change a good bit of it anyway. Thanks again for the input.
Hawkerpilot05
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 180
Likes: 7
From: MN
I have had vehicles since 1984. Only greased the brake slide pins when brakes were changed. Never had an issue until my F250. I had read about it in this forum but didn't think it would happen. Well, a locking brake caliper happened twice and at the most inconvenient time. I now do it yearly and l flush the brake system every 5 years. May have to do with living in the salt belt of MN, bur who knows.
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
From: Western NY
I always do calipers in pairs. If you go ford reman, they come without bolts, sliders or brackets. That rotor looks like it got pretty hot. Me I would put 2 new rotors on. If you turn one, then you have to turn the other. Do you have a shop that still has a brake lathe ?
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
I just put new pads on my truck, i noticed that the inside left front was not wearing well. For sure want to replace both and sides and do rotors both sides even if the other side looks good. Need to keep them mated. I also did a fluid flush. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. If you are doing any towing, heat up the brakes heating and cooling will degrade the fluid at some point. Its cheap insurance i try to do all my vehicle every two to 3 year. The slides are supposed to be greased every 15,000 that is a little overkill. there are hardware clips on the pads that hold the pads in place, they get rusted up and stuck in place. You can buy replacement hardware(if your not doing the pads) and Advanced Auto parts.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,226
Likes: 63
Pads and rotors from Advance Auto in June 2016, $206.
Rotors are s bit of a pain to get off, but can be done in the driveway.
Wouldn't waste my time trying get them cut or ground.
Reman calipers as well - TWO of them.
Rotors are s bit of a pain to get off, but can be done in the driveway.
Wouldn't waste my time trying get them cut or ground.
Reman calipers as well - TWO of them.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 9,762
Likes: 115
I always do calipers in pairs. If you go ford reman, they come without bolts, sliders or brackets. That rotor looks like it got pretty hot. Me I would put 2 new rotors on. If you turn one, then you have to turn the other. Do you have a shop that still has a brake lathe ?
I'm with everyone else. New rotors/pads/calipers. On the good side, I'd at least do new pads - if you are not **** like some of us (me) and don't want to do the good side.
I used to flush the brakes. But now I do regular inspections and if something seems awry I'll deal with it. Granted, I no longer under the illusion I will keep a vehicle for a long time, which is of course, my choice.
I'm betting you got some debris in the brake caliper/pad area and that caused your failure.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,180
Likes: 83
From: Georgia
With 42k on the truck, I would replace the bad caliper with a new one from Ford, not a reman, see if the rotor can be turned, if not, replace it as well(Actually Stanley, as heavy as you tow, I'd probably go ahead and replace that rotor as it will be made thinner if you turn it and much more prone to warp with the heat cycles and stress you'll put on it) . New pads on both sides and grease the slide pins on both. Hell, for that matter, I'd check the back ones while at it. Can't hurt.
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Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,787
Likes: 102
From: Georgia
I stopped at my regular shop and ask about turning the rotor. He says they can do it but recommended replacement of rotor and caliper and of course pads on both sides. Guy has been at this a long time so I asked about new caliper or rotor on the good side. He says replace the bad and drive it, if it pulls do the other. Made sense but seemed like a lot of extra work. So the longer we talked and the more I thought about it I'm just gonnna let him do it. I'm just too old for that stuff.
As to greasing the pins this is my third super duty, two four bys and one two by and I've never greased them except when changing pads. never had a problem in 15 years but I don't ever ever do snow or slush.
Thanks again for all the help.
As to greasing the pins this is my third super duty, two four bys and one two by and I've never greased them except when changing pads. never had a problem in 15 years but I don't ever ever do snow or slush.
Thanks again for all the help.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: California
My 2001 F250 had a stuck front caliper (passenger side) in the first year. Ford fixed it under warranty.
My 2004 F350 Dually had a stuck front caliper twice. Ford fixed it in, if I remember correctly, my second year of ownership (2006). I fixed it myself at about 110k miles (third set of front pads).
There were plenty of threads on it being a problem on both the 7.3 & 6.0 forums. Slide pins would be dry and/or scored. Calipers would be stuck or very difficult to 'slide'. As the brakes got bigger and better able to dissipate/absorb heat, there seems to be less threads on the problem(s).
If you're going to lube the caliper slide pins, I'd use sil-glyde. It is a silicon lubricant that seems better able to handle the high temps. It was recommended by Ford for the 'fix' in their TSB if I remember correctly. TSB also specified using new caliper slide pins.
As already posted, many manufactures do recommend flushing the brake fluid at specific intervals.
Those boots look like they are damaged by heat to me. We would see that damage on our brake calibers from our race car (production class sedan - enduro races).
My 2004 F350 Dually had a stuck front caliper twice. Ford fixed it in, if I remember correctly, my second year of ownership (2006). I fixed it myself at about 110k miles (third set of front pads).
There were plenty of threads on it being a problem on both the 7.3 & 6.0 forums. Slide pins would be dry and/or scored. Calipers would be stuck or very difficult to 'slide'. As the brakes got bigger and better able to dissipate/absorb heat, there seems to be less threads on the problem(s).
If you're going to lube the caliper slide pins, I'd use sil-glyde. It is a silicon lubricant that seems better able to handle the high temps. It was recommended by Ford for the 'fix' in their TSB if I remember correctly. TSB also specified using new caliper slide pins.
As already posted, many manufactures do recommend flushing the brake fluid at specific intervals.
Those boots look like they are damaged by heat to me. We would see that damage on our brake calibers from our race car (production class sedan - enduro races).
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
My 2001 F250 had a stuck front caliper (passenger side) in the first year. Ford fixed it under warranty.
My 2004 F350 Dually had a stuck front caliper twice. Ford fixed it in, if I remember correctly, my second year of ownership (2006). I fixed it myself at about 110k miles (third set of front pads).
There were plenty of threads on it being a problem on both the 7.3 & 6.0 forums. Slide pins would be dry and/or scored. Calipers would be stuck or very difficult to 'slide'. As the brakes got bigger and better able to dissipate/absorb heat, there seems to be less threads on the problem(s).
If you're going to lube the caliper slide pins, I'd use sil-glyde. It is a silicon lubricant that seems better able to handle the high temps. It was recommended by Ford for the 'fix' in their TSB if I remember correctly. TSB also specified using new caliper slide pins.
As already posted, many manufactures do recommend flushing the brake fluid at specific intervals.
Those boots look like they are damaged by heat to me. We would see that damage on our brake calibers from our race car (production class sedan - enduro races).
My 2004 F350 Dually had a stuck front caliper twice. Ford fixed it in, if I remember correctly, my second year of ownership (2006). I fixed it myself at about 110k miles (third set of front pads).
There were plenty of threads on it being a problem on both the 7.3 & 6.0 forums. Slide pins would be dry and/or scored. Calipers would be stuck or very difficult to 'slide'. As the brakes got bigger and better able to dissipate/absorb heat, there seems to be less threads on the problem(s).
If you're going to lube the caliper slide pins, I'd use sil-glyde. It is a silicon lubricant that seems better able to handle the high temps. It was recommended by Ford for the 'fix' in their TSB if I remember correctly. TSB also specified using new caliper slide pins.
As already posted, many manufactures do recommend flushing the brake fluid at specific intervals.
Those boots look like they are damaged by heat to me. We would see that damage on our brake calibers from our race car (production class sedan - enduro races).
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,226
Likes: 63
I stopped at my regular shop and ask about turning the rotor. He says they can do it but recommended replacement of rotor and caliper and of course pads on both sides. Guy has been at this a long time so I asked about new caliper or rotor on the good side. He says replace the bad and drive it, if it pulls do the other. Made sense but seemed like a lot of extra work. So the longer we talked and the more I thought about it I'm just gonnna let him do it. I'm just too old for that stuff.
As to greasing the pins this is my third super duty, two four bys and one two by and I've never greased them except when changing pads. never had a problem in 15 years but I don't ever ever do snow or slush.
Thanks again for all the help.
As to greasing the pins this is my third super duty, two four bys and one two by and I've never greased them except when changing pads. never had a problem in 15 years but I don't ever ever do snow or slush.
Thanks again for all the help.
Under warranty the manufacturer will almost always change out calipers as an "as needed" basis.
For customer pay we always recommended axle pairs for calipers as well.
If one caliper is bad, it is reasonable to believe the other caliper is somewhere between new and failing, so change it, make all things equal.
Rear axles leave a little more leeway for someone not wanting to spend the money, but the fronts ?
If you rotors have hot spots on them, turning won't work anyway.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,664
Likes: 188
I've always had brake issues (caliper freezes) on my 08 2011 ..fronts first starting at 22 k.. bought rebuilt calipers and new aftermarket rotors. Wagner Thermo Quiet's.. just my driving style.. Get's them hot and hit a puddle? who knows...They upgraded the brakes since 2011..not sure what year but my 2016 hopefully will or is better... still driving my style and got 45k so far ok with just a squeak or squeal...once in a while on right front but no pulsing or pulling yet.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,787
Likes: 102
From: Georgia
Just to close this out. I let my local guy do it and told him to spend whatever he thought needed to be spent to get the truck right. Saved me a lot of money I think. He turned the rotors, replaced the pads and said its good to go. I'm in florida now, just towed down and everything is fine. I'm the problem. I guess I'll pay closer attention to the front brakes now. This is my third super duty and I did not expect them to be that worn at 42K but they were. It stops OK but I suspect my trailer brakes might need attention and I'll check that out when I get home.