Having that extra spring also stiffens/strengthens when cornering, and being adjusted the same, it may not eliminate, but surely reduces the cornering effect.

What I am saying is not being connected to one another doesn't eliminate the stiffening effect it has on cornering, IMO of course.

 

I'm not talking about trailer sway at all. I'm talking about the truck wandering and the trailer making it worse. I'm talking about getting the steering box, bushings, ball joints, etc. right and tight. If your truck wanders without a trailer, no point in putting 10K on the back. But people talk about the Hellwig sway like the magic cure all that you can't live without, which it aint. It's nice, but it doesn't fix the actual problems if you have steering wander.

 

I think we are in perfect agreement here.
My point was that the rear bar shouldn't be thought of as something to tame a poorly behaving trailer. Sometimes less experienced folks can read "sway" and get crossed up between trailer sway and the sway (or body roll) that you mentioned. The rear sway bar (or anti roll bar) will make a big improvement to reduce the body roll but I don't think it's what folks should be leading off with if they are fighting wander, for that issue attention needs to be on the front end components first.

 

Totally agree, except about "Hellwig".
Anti-roll bars have always been helpful in vehicle handling and needed more when trying to control a lot of weight.
Ford cheaped out on the Ex by omitting a rear bar.
As a minimum the F250 rear bar should be added.
Ford would not have included one on the F250 for fun.
It's all about cost when deciding to include a rear bar, or a radiator trans cooler in 2000, or V10 spark plug inserts, or finned aluminum diff cover in 2008 ...

 

Check for a radiator trans cooler.
I've read early production models had it omitted.
If you only have the add-on cooler in front of the radiator you should upgrade to the 5R110 cooler for sure.
You wouldn't have to have get a new radiator, but for towing you need more cooling.
Not "needed", but, check your hitch sticker.
The load ratings are ok for your trailer - 10k/1k lbs, but the newer models have larger mounting bolts which kicked up the hitch rating to 12.5k/1,250 lbs.
Check for which exhaust Y-pipe it has.
I've noticed on ours the trans shifts less on shallow grades and off the line acceleration is improved with the SPD Y-pipe.

 

Well the trailer in the OP just sold, so now I have time to better prep the truck and continue the search for a trailer. Thanks for all the info. The road master RAS is an intriguing option, but I will do some more research before making a final decision.

 

I would 2nd the Roadmaster Active suspension in addition to the anti sway bar. My first X was a 2WD which really drove well-no wander, etc Roadmaster is designed to have an anti sway component in addition to strengthening the springs.

Another issue with an X, even the 2WD is rear steer or "spring wrap" There are articles on here about it. In a nutshell, the rear axle is supported by leaf springs which can torque forward if you hit the right size bump. The result is you may visit a neighboring lane. There is a product called Radius rods which are designed to keep the rear axle from torquing too much. However, if you look at the Roadmaster suspension, you'll notice they point out that their product addresses rear steer as well. I use both of these plus mine has a factory anti sway bar but I used Hellwig on others...and I don't even tow. I overkill everything as it is my nature. I did tow an 8000 lb Bobcat a couple of times with my 2WD (Hellwig and Radius Rods). Starting and cruising, I didn't know it was there. Stopping was another story as the trailer they had it on had no brakes---Holy sheeeaatt! Based on that experience, make sure the X's brakes are top notch-not that you will be towing a travel trailer with no trailer brakes--I hope. The factory brakes--well they suck to be honest. Also, in any instance, be sure to torque your lugnuts to around 160-165 ft/lbs. The rotors tend to warp if you don't and your foot gets a massage when you put on the brakes. It would be even more critical with trailering a heavy load.
If confused, follow Tom's advice. He tows a large mobile home--why mess with a trailer-ehh??

 

The main problem with the Excur 2WD rear leaf springs is Ford installed a lower rated spring than used in the F250 to "soften" the ride. The Excur is heavier than an F250. I think the target market was soccer Moms or large families, not heavy weight towing. Higher weight capacity springs should be the starting point for handling the higher loads. Higher weight rated springs are thicker and will have less tendency to wrap-up.