TooManyToys (Jack) and I have batted around the idea of extended battery life, go figure. And with these truck eating them every few years, something to try... another battery to prevent as deep of a draw when glow plugs are on... it's killing them prematurely, at least in my opinion.

Another battery, added cost, pain installing it and so on... YEP. But, if I can run a set of batteries for 4-5 or even 6 years, not worry about low voltage inputs to the FICM during cold starts and most likely make the system more effective, you bet!



Used a battery box from the E-series vans, eBay deal for $30, almost new.


Lined up the top holes that were already there, 15 1/8" apart, 8.8 grade 10mm bolts with large washers and the nylock nuts. It's on there!
Plenty of room above and on both sides.



total time of box install, 30 minutes.


Waiting on cables. Box doesn't hang to low to drag on big bumps, not really noticeable and for the $300... I think its going to be a great mod!
Piece of mind... knowing I have some cushion when its cold as I know some of us sometimes wonder if the old girl is going to fire??!!

I'll update the thread when they arrive, should be near the end of the week. I'm also doing a 6.7 starter. I've already upgraded the alternator to the Leece-Neville 230A unit and done some cable upgrades to support all the improvements. I'll run a positive to the starter @9' and a ground to the block @9', both 2/0 cables. It will get an AGM battery, maintenance free type to match the other two up front.

An attempt to keep from toasting an FICM... and at $500+ for repairs to one, this is a drop in the bucket, preventive measures... you bet.

 

Cool Randy. Glad you're feeling better to work on it. The placement looks good.

Today I got home early, last night at 11:00p. There's something about cutting Christmas trees by the light of a tractor in the cold air. Maybe it's the two-stroke oil smoke floating in the headlight beams. Thank God not many neighbors.

If you can, charge up the batteries and do a start with two batts, noting the Vdrop off a pair of battery terminal, then while installing the cables recharge the batts and recheck the Vdrop if you will. The real notice will be the coldest days, whenever they occur. I really hope this has good results.

For anyone thinking about this, you probably need to have a 200a alternator, or the extra battery may cause a slower ramp up in voltage with something like a 140a. It may not, we're in experimental territory here. Randy's doing some first flight trials here.

 

I believe you and I talked about this when you where at my house. Glad to see it's getting done. I like the E series battery box. Good idea. I believe we were talking about it for using a inverter.

 

Hey Bill. I've talked to a lot of people about doing this, I just haven't depite having the box for years.

A few people have added these for use with inverters, isolating them from starting duties. I think Bismic has done this from long ago.

Wish I was there to help Randy.

 

Don't you mean a 6.4 starter?

 

6.7L starter also works, the only difference to a 6.4 is one bolt that is smaller.

 

Mike,
the 6.7 is cheaper used than the 6.4. Seems the price is up because they're getting bought up, maybe by 6.0 guys.
An 8mm bottom bolt and a 12mm-8mm sleeve bearing to take the slack.

 

Great job Randy! I'll be doing this as well. In fact I'm ready (I think) to purchase my cable upgrades today. Maybe I should wait for more input on this or should I just pull the trigger? I will post in the battery cable thread about my current game plan in a little bit.

 

Pull the trigger and you can add comments here... that's what's it's for.

Make sure you get a large enough cable, tinned eye and sheathing to protect the cable from chafing. Few tie wraps to finish it nicely. Alternator to battery positive, positive to postitive and the negative frame to block. Clean them to bare metal. Don't forget the one under the passengers side, cab to frame.

 

How large of a battery can that box hold? Maybe a 33 series? I have a KILLER inverter sitting on my shelf.

 

Thinking out loud here, if I was to add a 3rd battery I would also put the third on an isolator so when KOEO the third battery is not hooked in to the other two. Especially if you're running an inverter. I could see at least one of the batteries not agreeing with the others and drawing them down to it's level of charge.
A lower actual capacity (not advertised CA) battery seems to always drag down the other, they never bring the other one up.

 

The box holds a 65, same size as the truck comes with. My intention is to go with a 65, AGM to match my other two currently in the truck, no inverter.

And I agree with you Pete, isolate the battery for an inverter so you don't kill the truck, just that battery.

 

Pete brings up a good point. I think Randy's are not that old, but a good point in doing all this might be when new batteries are needed, then if like Randy you go to Advance, have them test the new batteries so you can get 3 that are close in CCA.

In use I expect them to wander, and there's nothing you can do about this.

Transit system electrical systems used to drive me crazy as every authority had their own way of doing things. Which was true for the rest of the bus as well and why buses are so expensive. LA different then NYC, different then D.C., different then Baton Rouge ......

Some a mixture of 12, 24 and 36 volts. Now where do you hook up the instrumentation for constant on supply. Oh,you don't, 'cause they throw the master switch every night, so you get permission from the safety dept to install another 12v battery in a compartment and try to isolate the ground from everything else, but still get recharged by way of an isolator. Tractor trailer fleets were relatively easy with just batteries in parallel as we have.

For the way Randy is setting up, you want the same battery size across all.

 

I've already replaced the passenger side cab to frame braided cable. I have planned for a 70"(5.83 ft.) 1/0 red positive to positive cable.
I'm unclear on whether I should go with a 4 ft. 2/0 black cable from driver's negative terminal to block or if I should do the 24" 1/0 piggyback cable to the frame and add another from frame to block? It sounds much simpler to replace the stock unknown (internal condition) driver side negative battery cable to frame rail doesn't it? I wouldn't need to go to the frame at that point or should I still go frame to block on the driver side. If so, what size there?
I've also planned for the 2ft. 4 ga red alternator to passenger positive cable piggyback(w/fuse and fuse block). Or should anything change with the plan for the 3rd battery?

 

No need to piggy back a negative driver to frame. Go driver frame to block for sure. I also did a negative passenger body to frame since the passenger negative is to the body. Add the piggy back alternator to passenger positive. I went 2/0 on everything for the upgrade to cables and the third will get 2/0 AWG 00 cables, both 9' on length.

Batteries are pretty new, Jun/Jul these AGMs replaced a 1.75 year old set of Advance Auto Gold series, 850CCA.

I'll have them test the CCA of these...
Do you think I should try to match the CCA remaining of these? Or just go AGM 65, 850s to match them battery for battery?