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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Six Cyl Lifting Points?

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Old Nov 24, 2016 | 08:59 PM
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Six Cyl Lifting Points?

No eyes on the engine in our 55. Hood is off. Trans out. Where do most lift from? Easier with the fenders and front clip off I suppose.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2016 | 11:08 PM
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What is your situation and size of truck? F-600? LNT-9000? Cummins or Detroit 6 cyl engine? Engine hoist? Gantry crane? How much overhead room do you have? I would suggest forged eyebolts in place of headbolts/studs at opposite ends and sides of the engine connected to a spreader bar.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 05:06 AM
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F100. No overhead room restrictions. Engine hoist. Clutch and housing are still on, but could be removed to shorten things.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 10:49 AM
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If you have a typical engine hoist (cherry picker), you need to get the engine hooked up as close to the top of the block as possible, to get the oil pan to clear the radiator support. You'll have a LOT of weight way up high as it is, be sure your picker is sturdy! You'll need the picker at max reach. That's why a lot of people pull the front clip first.


 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 03:49 PM
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All great advice. And I will take the front support off. But is there a common place to hook the chain on these straight six's?
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 04:08 PM
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I 've always used an upper bellhousing bolt and a front intake/exhaust manifold bolt, substituting longer bolts to compensate for the thickness of the chain used.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 06:53 PM
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From: Bothell & Silverdale, WA
Here are a couple of suggestions.



I use an OTC load leveler. You can almost stand an engine on end, and adjust attitude as required.

 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MMB
I 've always used an upper bellhousing bolt and a front intake/exhaust manifold bolt, substituting longer bolts to compensate for the thickness of the chain used.
That's what I was looking for. That's what I will do. Taking off fenders now since they have to come off anyhow. Go figure that a 61 year old truck has rusty fasteners.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 07:09 PM
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That load leveler is cool. I had somewhere one of the screw type, and it kind of, well, sucked.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolfracing
That's what I was looking for. That's what I will do. Taking off fenders now since they have to come off anyhow. Go figure that a 61 year old truck has rusty fasteners.
Try TIGHTENING the bolts, with any luck they'll break in two. Goes a lot faster!

But it's easier to lift the whole clip off while together. Just undo the bolts to the radiator saddle, the ones at the running boards, remove all the wiring, and unbolt the inner fenders from the cowl and frame.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 09:20 PM
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Great tip. I have to do a lot of disassembly anyhow. Need to see what is savable and what is not. Illinois is a terrible place for anything that goes down the road. The left fender was worse than I thought. The passenger side looks better and may be salvageable. The cab is bad, but the truck came with a cab that is in good shape. And I have another box for it. I envy the stuff from the south and west. Inner fenders are pretty ratty. The front radiator support steel is all good, but the rest of the front not so much.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 01:11 PM
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...and once you have the front clip off, any bolt that won't break comes off easy with an angle grinder I disassembled a front clip in about an hour when it took me over a day while still on the truck.
 
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