Has anybody recently purchased one of the fuel valves? MSRP: $146.56 // FTEpartsguy.com price: $79.14.

 

Found that price in another posting that was old. The price I am finding now is $270+. It also sounds like the replacement valves are of a newer design. I can get an electrical valve for under $100 to do the switching. Just have to figure out the wiring. I like original for diagnostic reasons but I can switch if I have to.
So, should I bite the bullet and get the pressure operated "original" valve, or the electric, inexpensive one. Oh, the PO just stopped using the rear tank, I think due to a hole in the bottom. Pulled the bed on this truck to fix both tanks. The front was leaking from the bottom also. Found bad repairs on both tanks. The rear was empty for some time. It looked like an old war zone when I pulled the pump sending unit, It was junk.
So two new tanks are in and when I follow the lines to inspect the rest of the system I see there is no tank selector valve. I go to my favorite auto parts web site and it shows a valve that switches electrically. I order it, it shows up, I go to install it and get the closer look (the closer look I should have done before I ordered the electrical valve) I can't find the electrical plug for the valve. Then I notice, the PO cut the lines and got an adapter to connect the front tank lines only to the hi-pressure pump. I continue to hunt for the plug, removing the harness cover back both ways thinking the PO wired up the front pump only, leaving the wires cut and taped in the harness cover. NOPE! I fall back and regroup, (I go to the web and this site). I find the selector valve I am supposed to have mounted under the truck is a pressure operated valve. While looking this info up I see prices for this valve as low as $79.14, so I try to find this price today and all I can find is a price over three times that.
I'm thinking of how to wire in the electric valve, but I am wanting to use a pressure operated valve.
Have any of you guys switched to the electric valve? Is there a place that sells the pressure operated selector valve for under $100? Has the new style press. op. valve worked longer than the original? It has been a long time since this truck was produced.
Okay, my book is done. I will wait for input.

 

No one is going to know, as you didn't post the part number. There are several different types of these valves, one has 3 the other has 6 ports.

If it's this: E9TZ-9189-A .. Fuel Tank Selector Valve-6 ports / Marked: E9TB-9F271-AA / Obsolete ~ 1 available NOS

1987/89 F150/350; F(Super Duty) & Ranger.
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There's another type: F1UZ-9B263-B (replaced E7TZ-9B263-A & F1UZ-9B263-A) .. Reservoir & Fuel Tank Selector Valve-Does not contain filter / Marked: E7TA-9B263-AB or F1UA-9B263-AA / Ford just obsoleted it.

Last MSRP: $290.02 - Dealer net cost: $159.51.

Misc. applications: 1987/89 F150/350 & F(Super Duty) / 1988/91 Econoline / There are 65+ available NOS

FTEpartsguy was Ed Olson, parts manager of Horizon Ford in Seattle. He had a stroke in January 2011, had to retire, so there's no longer an FTEpartsguy.

 

I have 1988 F250 302 with dual tanks and just recently got a new fuel selector valve from Amazon. It's a Ford-made part that's re-designed apparently. paid about $80 as I recall. It works great, got about 3K miles on it now in a couple months.

 

Duh! Part number F1UZ-9B263-B is what I'm looking for. Josiewales, is that the part you bought?

 

I looked to see what the discount price was from that dealer in MN .. and it said...no longer available.

But, they do have 1 available, so you could call and ask how much. Last MSRP and dealer net cost edited into post #3.

 

OK. Checked my records. 10-17-2016 I had F1UZ-9B263-B replaced, so I had it for a couple weeks before that. Paid $134. Got it here -

https://www.amazon.com/F1uz9b263b-Re...s=F1UZ-9B263-B.

It's 6-port, non- electric, OEM Ford. Came in a couple days after I ordered it.
Works fine.
It says now "in stock" "$164.87"
I got mine immediately when I saw it mentioned here, so cost me less and was available then.
YMMV

 

Thanks for taking the time to send that info, I have to make up my mind now on if I want to spend that, or redo the fuel feed system to the electric valve.

 

Well. after trying to get one from the salvage yard, thinking I would take it apart and verify its operation then install it. I have decided to buy a new one. Should have it on the 30th. While I have heard of some of the new valves not working for very long I think it may be from dirt in the lines or tanks. I have two new tanks and will have clean lines, so we shall see.
Thanks to josiewales and NumberDummy for their input.

 

Thanks again to josiewales. New valve is in place, fuel lines are hooked up, pressurized the system and I can now run on both tanks and read their levels.
Did notice that the engine cuts out at 2k plus RPMs, while on the front tank. When on the rear tank I get no sputter or cutting out. There is a new pump in the rear, I'm thinking the front pump is on its last leg. Going to see if it happens again tomorrow. If it does, I will get a new low pressure tank pump.