so i have a 73 f100 390 FE, i don't think my points are holding up at higher rpm, i know a pertonix kit seems the way to go, but have any of you guys put an msd box in, or a 1 wire dizzy, kinda related but is there a way to see if my points are running 12 volts? i don't have the pink wire that everybody says should be there.

 

If 12v were getting to your points, they would burn in about 15 minutes. Ask me how I know. An old fashioned dwell meter should be able to tell you what voltage you are getting to your points.

I didn't mind my points, but my original Pertronix Ignitor has been ROCK SOLID and the truck runs ever so smooth with it since installed.

 

I'd prefer to go with a Duraspark system, but you can trigger the MSD box with your points, and never have to pull the dizzy.
Pertronix would work well too, but I would prefer the first two options, in that order.

I put a Duraspark on a '68 Cougar 289/302 one time, and it was a nice improvement.

 

i have a duraspark box but not the harness is there a way to wire it it i also think i have a duraspark dizzy

 

You have to match the wiring harness to the specific module. 1974/79: There are SIX different DuraSpark modules.

Modules are identified by a colored plastic square (aka grommet) located above where the wires feed out. What color is your module?

 

If it is any help I just installed the dura spark II in my 55 but it has a 77 400 the PO had cut off all the pig tails so I purchased new the new box has a four and two prong on it and then I bought the females ends and wired up like it was from the factory and yes mine was the blue restraint. If I can do it you can do it. I also went with new coil as I did not know what all the people had done to the truck.Duraspark II -- The Ford V-8 Engine Workshop

 

I am using a DS2 distributor with an MSD 6a box and an MSD TFI street blaster coil, on a 78 engine. I run straight 12v to the TFI, and have for several years. It works very well, with spark plug gaps opened to .055. I also had the DS2 recurved, which means nothing more than changing the springs on the advance mechanism to weaker ones so the advance comes on quicker.

On the MSD site there are many diagrams that will show you how to splice into the oem wires and hook up the unit. The one caution I would give is that with the DS2, is to know whether the trigger module has the magic words: Made in China. If so, dependability is gone. I went on ebay and found a NOS motocraft one. But I don't like to be left stranded. Motocraft=20+ years. China=maybe 3 years.

I have several friends who use the DUI (Davis Unified Ignition) dizzy. They love it. Don't be fooled by the Chinese ones selling for around $120. The Davis unit uses a superior trigger mechanism, and it has the GM style advance in the top of the dizzy for easy access. Yes, $365 is a hefty price. If you buy one, get Taylor wires, not the 'live wire' set they try to sell you. The Taylor wires are better.

With the DS2/MSD combo I have quite a few wires dangling about, which the DUI would eliminate, but it's fine with me.

 

I just saw that Davis sells a Duraspark dizzy too!

The HEI probably can't be beat in terms of simplicity, but will never look as good in there, as would a Ford, or Ford-style, dizzy.

Just my two pennies...

 

Points ignitions tend to be more of a maintenance headache, but rarely fail suddenly in service as can happen with any semiconductor ignitions. If you decide on one of the semiconductor ignitions, always carry a backup. I've had MSD, Duraspark, and GM's HEI all fail suddenly on me in service. Some semiconductor ignitions seem more comfortable when the voltage regulator is also solid state. You'll probably get more voltage out of some of the high energy systems. The Duraspark I systems used in the CA 1977-79 cars should have a bit more secondary energy than the Duraspark II. Also most of the semiconductor devices are heat sensitive, so try to keep them as cool as possible.

 

I found it very interesting and perplexing that at the end of the third paragraph in the link you posted, the writer states that the grease should be applied to the end of the rotor. I have never heard that. Can you please explain?

 

And which tip/contact? The top tip for the coil, or the side tip for the cylinders?
It doesn't sound like it would matter. I'd think the difference would be infinitesimal if anything at all.
A good test would be to measure the current or voltage at a spark plug on a DS system without the grease, and then again after adding the grease.

 

"This compound should also be applied to the tip of the distributor rotor."

I too would like to hear a clarification of that one. I'm wondering if it might have been a "clunky" way of saying to put it on the end of the distributor's shaft under the rotor.

 

Points work fine, the problem is most point distributors are worn out mechanically by now and loose as a goose. They are a mechanical system therefore there can not be any slop in the distributor shaft and bushings or the dwell will never be stable. The advance plate also gets sticky or erratic, vacuum advance diaphragm leaky, etc.

A fresh tight distributor will make a huge difference in how the engine runs, and curving the advance equally so.

Finally new contact points and condensers available at most of the usual outlets today are junk and nothing but trouble. Use good quality NOS Echlin or Standard electrical parts, or Motorcraft. If you have an old condenser laying around from "back in the day" use that for now. Most mechanics in the points heyday would leave the condenser alone if the engine was running good even when replacing points.

 

They mean the actual tip of the rotor, probably to stop crossfire? Or corrosion maybe.

The felt pad under the rotor, in the distributor shaft, gets ONE drop of oil every 5000 miles or somesuch. The ridges in the distributor shaft are supposed to hold the oil and lubricate the advance plate and other innards and keep things moving smoothly.

Don't forget a light coat of cam grease, so the point rubbing block doesn't wear down. New points will need checked right after installation and they wear in a bit.

Set the points with a feeler gauge just so it will start. Then use a dwell meter and set the point gap whereever it needs to be, get the dwell set to spec, because that's what counts.

 

I would only use MSD if you can get a older part before they were all made in China, MSD now stands for "my spark disappeared" their race ignitions are the only US made components they sell, I had a MSD module last about 100 miles and the stator made it about 1000 miles on a brand new distributor, but my 20 year old MSD 5A box is still going.
Got nothing better to do, google; msd my spark disappeared.