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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Towing a CCLB

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Old Nov 23, 2016 | 11:56 AM
  #16  
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fordf350man
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Registration is definitely expired about 5 months now.

I know AAA pays their drivers little. If they gives me grief Ill slip him a $20 and that always seems to take care of it.

I have had them haul other projects of mine and they haven't given me grief about the registration yet but with my luck it might be the one time they do.

And yes they always try and get me to tow it to the nearest AAA authorized shop. I always have to say no!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2016 | 01:08 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Nothing Special
Sounds like you've got a good, safe option, but here are some thoughts I have about flat towing (having done a lot of it with CJ5 and my '71 Bronco).

Steering on the towed vehicle is no problem if the alignment isn't screwed up. It's a HUGE problem (steering going to opposite lock on corners) if the camber is off.

That said, steering the combination can be very difficult with an empty F-250 towing a CJ5 (the towed vehicle wants to go straight, taking the back end of the truck with it on turns). I'd hate to think about towing a 1 ton crew cab with a half ton. You could do it if you went really slow, but it could go south on you in a hurry too.

Braking is pretty "interesting" towing a CJ5 with an F-250. You can't stop very quickly and if you try it tends to lock the trucks back tires and jackknife. Again I wouldn't recommend doing it with the towed vehicle greatly outweighing the towing truck. (And now I have my Bronco set up with "towed" brakes to keep it legal and safe).

Towing 30 miles at low speed is very unlikely to cause a problem with a transfer case or manual trans, and probably not even an automatic. However, for longer, higher speed tows, I'd always drop the driveshaft with anything:
  • Automatics are lubed by the pump on the input shaft, so they are the worst to tow with the driveshaft in place.
  • Manual trans are splash-lubed, but the countershaft is the only thing really down in the gear lube, and it doesn't turn when you tow with the trans in neutral, so I sure wouldn't risk that either.
  • Ford transfer cases of this vintage are lubed by a pump that's driven from the output shaft, so they should be able to be towed with the driveshaft in place (and the transfer case in neutral to protect the trans). But dropping the driveshaft is cheap insurance, so I'd still do it.
I wouldn't worry too much about towing a 6500 lb truck with a 5000 lb rated tow bar. It might get you in trouble with your insurance company if there was an accident, but there's usually plenty of safety factor in designs for that much overloading.

Like GoinBoarding said, I'd be leery about towing a truck that heavy with the towbar bolted to the bumper. There are some serious forces involved in horsing a flat-towed truck through corners. I don't see a stock bumper holding up well to that.

When I've tried to rent a tow dolly from U-Haul they wanted to know what I was towing on it and what I was towing it with. They pretty much said "no" to anything involving a full-size truck on the dolly. They MIGHT rent it to you if you told them you were towing a 2WD F-150 with an F-350 dually, but I'm not even sure of that. And standard size tow dollies probably wouldn't fit a full size truck. There are oversize dollies that will, but I'm not sure how available they are to rent.
I appreciate the info Nothing Special. Makes sense to just drop the driveshaft(s) most times to be safe if a longer tow.

Well AAA has a lag time for this purpose exactly. I have to wait one week before I can take advantage of these 100 mile tows so it will be next week sometime before I get them out here and get it up to the ranch.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2016 | 08:01 PM
  #18  
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Easiest solution..

Upgrade to AAA PLUS and you get (3) 100 miles tows a year
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 03:35 PM
  #19  
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You got it, pay for a tow. Or AAA. Don't flat tow that big truck with your little truck, if it goes well, it will be freaky and you will wish you towed it. If it goes bad, you will wish you towed it.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 06:32 PM
  #20  
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Do the brakes work? If they do throw a battery in it so you got lights, get someone that can steer and brake and hook a tow strap to it. Last time I checked it's still legal here in the state if I'm not wrong. Is that an option for you?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 07:26 AM
  #21  
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To tow bar or not to tow bar...

Rent the tow dolly.... much safer. Uhaul has a wide edition tow dolly that does great for 1 tons. I have hauled my 1 tons from West Coast to East Coast dozens of times during breakdowns. Very safe. If you want to feel safer rent their 1 ton box van to tow it. Never an issue on 2500 mile trips and I've literally done it dozens of times. If it were me I'd rent their truck too... a one ton tows a one ton nicely. Never would I ever use a tow bar on a bumper. Always take the bumper off and bolt to the frame. Worst case scenario if your towee truck has oversized tires you can generally goto the junk yard and get the factory narrow tires and wheels for dirt cheap and bolt them on the front. Good luck
 
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Old Feb 16, 2021 | 11:46 AM
  #22  
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Given that he was asking over 4 years ago, his luck, either good or bad, has probably already happened.
 
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