I read a post by 'cpnhgnjnky' dated '18-Sep-01, 01:06 AM'
( https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID39/1539.html )
in which the writer states that there may be some recall on loose ignitions.

"I don't know how well this got around since the recall happened during the tire thing. Inside the steering column is a small ignition bracket that has a tendency to break. Ford is just initiating the recall as of now you have to order the part and pay for the labor but then you will be refunded the cost once the recall campaign comes completely on line. The problem that this bracket gives you is you can't shut the vehicle off. OH YEAH MAKE SURE YOU KEEP THE RECEIPT. Thank-you for your time."

Now I just bought an ignition / door lock / key set thinking that would fix the problem, but after reading the post I'm willing to bet there's a broken bracket to blame for my loose ignition switch. Has anyone fixed the problem themselves (if so, please describe the process of getting at it), or heard of it becoming a recall?

Thanks!

 

I have a similar problem in my ignition. Mine will shut off (knock on wood) but i can remove the key any time i want like going down the road for example. The small rollers in the ignition just keep on rolling till i align them up to set the key in. I have yet to replace it but by god them *******es at my local dealership better doo it right. But when i get it done, if u dont have urs done by then ill letcha in on the process

 

Thanks for that bit of knowledge.

Well, I actually think I have two problems... the one you describe (where the tumblers are obviously a little worn and the insides of the key-ignition just aren't right), and that the whole key-ignition is loose within the column (which I am betting was the problem the 'recall-that-hasn't-happened' was about).

EaSTxCOwboY, why not do it yourself?

Others: I still need some help here...

 

Does your rig still start? If it is so loose that it wont start it could be other things. I had to replace a part in the steering column called the ignition actuator. Usually when the fords get to about 90-120K this part seems to fail on all of them. When It breaks your key will feel loose and will not push the rod which inturn turns the ignition on.

If you want to replace the ignition switch you can just do it yourself (extremly easy) and buy the unit at NAPA for 15.00. It really is not worth doing all of the recall BS!

 

Much thanks, brett_d (and that's a real nice lookin' truck).

Ok, so while I'm in there playing around with the key-ignition thingy, is the actuator rod an easy to get to easy-change-out?

I'll just order one from Ford and throw it in there if I can.

by the by, what did you use to mount the CB antenna up straight on the driver's side? My mount attaches to the hood, but the hood is tilted at that point so the whip points a bit out to the side of the truck.

(Actually i'm looking for a way to mount it at the front end of the bed)

Thanks!

:-X12

 

You can actually see the actuator from the top of the steering column. It is actually a piece of metal that slides back and forth within the column. If it is not broke you can take some wd40 and spray it in the hole that it slides in. After you remove the plastic collar around the column you can see the protrusion through the column (the column is perfectly round except for the protrusion on the top of the column).

The mounts that I used are firestik. I bought them from bills2way.com. they mount to the fenderwells rather than the hood. since the fenders are slanted towards the front of the truck you have to put some washers on the front of the mount so the antenna is straight up. I used this on both the passenger and driver's side...

 

Oh and to replace the actuator isn't that fun. You need to have a special tool to remove the pivots if you have tilt steering. Or you can make one.... Tell me if you need to replace the actuator and i'll inform you how to make the tool.

 

hey i am having the same problem on my 1988 ford f150, you don't by chance have any diagrams on the steering column do you??? just got tis truck about a week ago and have found several things that the other owner just rigged up half a##. it has approx. 226k. since the speedo wasn't hooked up and i'm trying to figure out how to replace the lights inside the instrument panel what is the easiest way to replace those bulbs.

thanks

 

Southern, that's a good question - and one I haven't got to yet, either. Maybe it deserves a new post in the '87-'96 forum? I only have 84,000 on my truck but it seems to have a dim, or out, instrument panel light, too.

Some steering column break-down drawings can be found in truck manuals. I have the Clifford's manual and that manual does describe how to change out an ignition key-cylinder, but it doesn't cover the actuator at all.

I haven't got to playing with the steering cloumn yet, so I'm not sure if I have to replace the actuator rod. But...

does anyone know how to get the front corner light lenses off '93 trucks? There are two screws at the top of it, but once they are out it is aparently still attached somewhere. (I have a corner light out so I need to change it.) I remember looking at trying to change the lenses in a 1992 F-150, but the plastic trim was already cracked from someone else who took the two screws out and couldn't get the ornery contraption off.

 

My ignition is gettting loose in my '96 also I think part of it is due to the fact that I have a lot of keys on my ring, both the other ford tuck ('95) and the ford car I had did the same thing but they went bad before the waranty's were up.

as for the CB mount I just got mine at the local CB shop or a truck stop it was angled correctly and everything it mounted to the fender in side the eng. comp and stickes through the gap on the hood easy to install.

 

I’m not sure if this problem I’m having is the same, but it seems related.
I can turn the ignition cylinder without a key in it, but it does not start the vehicle or anything.
Also I’ve been having a problem with the vehicle starting, I turn the key to the start position, and it pauses for a second than starts no problem, but yester day I went to start it, turned the key, held it for a couple seconds nothing happened, then tried it again and started no problem. I was thinking it was the starter relay, but not sure now.

Also I can take the key out when it’s running.
Does this seem to be related to the problems in the other posts?

 

Madman, you are describing the same prob I had. I had to replace the lock cylinder. I paid the dealer to do it because I was unsure about messing with the air bag. Good Luck.

 

madman666 - Initially I almost said no, but then I reread your post.

Yes, you really should think about changing the cylinder soon. The problem apparently (according to posts here) can lead to a no-turn-off situation, which can be a real bad thing if you're far from home. SUre, you could pull the battery cable, but then you have to get it towed... :-X23

In buying parts, reading posts and talking to the rather helpful Ford parts department, I've neded up with three things...

1.) A key lock/ignition set (might as well get new keys that fit everything... the set comes with two keys that fit the two door locks and the ignition

2.) an actuator rod (again, from info from both posts around here and the Ford dealership)

3.) some ~$5 "upper" (as it was called by the parts dept.) bearing for the system. This bearing is something I haven't read about in posts, but the dealership said it was a common selling part (in fact they just sold the one in stock right before I called, so I had to wait on mine).

I will probably open it up within the next week to week and a half.

(all posters - forget about the front corner lens question I had earlier... I found I didn't have to take the lenses off to get to the corner light, but I still needed long needle-nose pliers to get into the little hole to turn the corner bulb's socket counterclockwise and out.)

The CB antenna - well, after thinking about it, it struck me that i'm a little stuck with what mounts I can get for it. I have a real nice antenna (a K40), but it requires its own style of base. I'll probably stop at a CB shop on my way home Monday.

 

Just a reminder before you tear into it.... If you have tilt steering you will need a special tool to get to the actuator rod. I had to make one myself..... To make the tool you need a 6mm bolt that is about 2-3 inches long, a nut, and a washer. There is two different pitches on the threads and I believe that it is a .20 pitch (if not it is a .25 pitch). There are two pivots that need to be pulled out with this tool.

When you tear into it pull the pivots just far enough that they do not come out of the column. Then it will release the tilt joint. It will still be connected to the steering column. What you need to do is tilt the steering all of the way down and take some thing to pry a bit on the column. While prying you should be able to remove the actuator without tearing down the entire steering column. This might take two people.

Otherwise tearing down the column will take another hour or so..... Also before you install the actuator grease it up with some white lithium grease. Other types of grease break down too quick and get "Gummy" causing the same problem all over again.....

Good Luck!

 

I recently had some trouble with my ignition switch. I had noticed it getting harder to get the key in ond out, and it was hard to turn the key. One day, while I was out running some errands, my key wouldn't even go into the blasted thing! I just went down to AutoZone, bought a whole new switch for about $13.00. Took about 45 minutes to replace. Wouldn't you know, it happened when my husband was out of town working, it was dark, and raining! Interesting experience, if not exactly pleasant.