37s on level no rub offset
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 286
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From: Bothell Wa
I would like to see how this looks with 20x9 and a 0 or +1 offset. Anyone have pics???
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
The picture is a little deceiving. No flares needed.
20x9, +20 offset are perfect. I went to the shop and mounted up a 0 offset and they got way to close to bumper and inner fender. +20 with 37/12.5 are perfect for me. If I had to do the level kit again, I would probably go with a 3 inch. There is still a lot of rake in the truck with a 2 inch level. I'd probably go with the WICKED LEVEL. (google it) they look really nice. A larger level would give you even more room.
20x9, +20 offset are perfect. I went to the shop and mounted up a 0 offset and they got way to close to bumper and inner fender. +20 with 37/12.5 are perfect for me. If I had to do the level kit again, I would probably go with a 3 inch. There is still a lot of rake in the truck with a 2 inch level. I'd probably go with the WICKED LEVEL. (google it) they look really nice. A larger level would give you even more room.
Can't seem to get a straight answer.
Thx,
ysgi
New User
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
The picture is a little deceiving. No flares needed.
20x9, +20 offset are perfect. I went to the shop and mounted up a 0 offset and they got way to close to bumper and inner fender. +20 with 37/12.5 are perfect for me. If I had to do the level kit again, I would probably go with a 3 inch. There is still a lot of rake in the truck with a 2 inch level. I'd probably go with the WICKED LEVEL. (google it) they look really nice. A larger level would give you even more room.
20x9, +20 offset are perfect. I went to the shop and mounted up a 0 offset and they got way to close to bumper and inner fender. +20 with 37/12.5 are perfect for me. If I had to do the level kit again, I would probably go with a 3 inch. There is still a lot of rake in the truck with a 2 inch level. I'd probably go with the WICKED LEVEL. (google it) they look really nice. A larger level would give you even more room.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
I looking at going to Toyo 37x12.5r20 mt tires too. How are you reprograming your speedo, odometer and correction transmission shift points?
Ford computer does not go larger than 275/65r20...the largest tire size they offer (which is what's currently on my truck). I'm worried about the 37's in transmission shift points, speedo, odometer, navigation, etc. if it can not be reprogrammed. The 37's cause a 7.5% error.
What did you guys do?
Since you cant enter a larger tire size in Ford computer than the 275/65r20, luckily I have 3.55 rear end...can Ford dealer re-flash computer to 3.31 rear end?
This would correct all but about 0.5% error which is close enough.
Ford computer does not go larger than 275/65r20...the largest tire size they offer (which is what's currently on my truck). I'm worried about the 37's in transmission shift points, speedo, odometer, navigation, etc. if it can not be reprogrammed. The 37's cause a 7.5% error.
What did you guys do?
Since you cant enter a larger tire size in Ford computer than the 275/65r20, luckily I have 3.55 rear end...can Ford dealer re-flash computer to 3.31 rear end?
This would correct all but about 0.5% error which is close enough.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 996
Likes: 193
From: AZ
Hypertech's In-Line Speedometer Calibrator Module
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17098083
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17098083
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 996
Likes: 193
From: AZ
I can't say - perhaps you'll contact Hypertech or one of its distributors. I posted it because I'll want to have the speedo/odometer accurate once I run larger tires.
Last edited by MagicMtnDan; May 2, 2017 at 12:54 AM. Reason: changed "can" to "can't"
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 996
Likes: 193
From: AZ
The picture is a little deceiving. No flares needed.
20x9, +20 offset are perfect. I went to the shop and mounted up a 0 offset and they got way to close to bumper and inner fender. +20 with 37/12.5 are perfect for me. If I had to do the level kit again, I would probably go with a 3 inch. There is still a lot of rake in the truck with a 2 inch level. I'd probably go with the WICKED LEVEL. (google it) they look really nice. A larger level would give you even more room.
20x9, +20 offset are perfect. I went to the shop and mounted up a 0 offset and they got way to close to bumper and inner fender. +20 with 37/12.5 are perfect for me. If I had to do the level kit again, I would probably go with a 3 inch. There is still a lot of rake in the truck with a 2 inch level. I'd probably go with the WICKED LEVEL. (google it) they look really nice. A larger level would give you even more room.
Positive offset brings the tire/wheel inboard more which would help keep the tire from sticking out. But I would think it would increase the likelihood of rubbing.
When I spoke to a shop about running 37x13.5" tires on a BDS 4" Radius Arm lift they recommended -24.
From TireRack.com:
The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types (measured in millimeters).*
"The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel."
Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
Positive
The hub mounting surface is located in the front half of the wheel closer to the wheel face. This tucks the entire wheel in toward the brakes and vehicle suspension. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front-wheel drive cars and newer rear-wheel drive cars.
Negative
The hub mounting surface is located in the back half of the wheel closer to the back lip flange. This moves the wheel out away from the vehicle brakes and suspension. "Deep dish" wheels and wheels for lifted trucks are typically a negative offset.
If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. Often, when changing the width of the wheel, the offset will also need to change to maintain proper clearances inside the wheel well. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We test fit thousands of different vehicle and wheel size combinations to confirm which ones work correctly. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.
*Backspacing, similar to offset, is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the inside lip of the wheel (measured in inches).
A graphic from the interweb:
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 996
Likes: 193
From: AZ
The picture is a little deceiving. No flares needed.
20x9, +20 offset are perfect. I went to the shop and mounted up a 0 offset and they got way to close to bumper and inner fender. +20 with 37/12.5 are perfect for me. If I had to do the level kit again, I would probably go with a 3 inch. There is still a lot of rake in the truck with a 2 inch level. I'd probably go with the WICKED LEVEL. (google it) they look really nice. A larger level would give you even more room.
20x9, +20 offset are perfect. I went to the shop and mounted up a 0 offset and they got way to close to bumper and inner fender. +20 with 37/12.5 are perfect for me. If I had to do the level kit again, I would probably go with a 3 inch. There is still a lot of rake in the truck with a 2 inch level. I'd probably go with the WICKED LEVEL. (google it) they look really nice. A larger level would give you even more room.
I'm still trying to understand how you can run a 2" level kit with 37" x 12.50" x 20" tires on a 20" x 9" wheel with +20 offset and not rub.
No one I've spoken to at Level kit or suspension kit companies say that will work.
I'm not doubting you - I want it to be true - I just want to know more about this and be sure you have no rubbing and you didn't do any trimming or bumper extensions, etc.
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 57
Likes: 5
Help me figure all of this out. I will be ordering new F250 this fall and have been making plans. I want to run 37x12.5x18 but am not willing to do it if I can’t correct things to where speedo/odometer/shift points are accurate. If my calculations are correct, I could order 3.55 gears and 275/65/20 tires and replace wheels and tires with 37x12.5x18 giving me an effective gear ratio of 3.27. If there were an easy enough way to make the computer think I have the 3.31 gears, this would only be off by ~1%, which is close enough. Is it possible to simply change the gear ratio in the computer? Or is there an easier way to accomplish my goal of keeping speedo/odometer/shift points accurate? I still can’t determine if the hypertech device does anything for shift points and it seems like there should be an easier way than removing the dash when most of this could be fixed with computer programming as long as your effective gear ratio isn't ridiculous.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 996
Likes: 193
From: AZ
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 996
Likes: 193
From: AZ
The picture is a little deceiving. No flares needed.
20x9, +20 offset are perfect. I went to the shop and mounted up a 0 offset and they got way to close to bumper and inner fender. +20 with 37/12.5 are perfect for me. If I had to do the level kit again, I would probably go with a 3 inch. There is still a lot of rake in the truck with a 2 inch level. I'd probably go with the WICKED LEVEL. (google it) they look really nice. A larger level would give you even more room.
20x9, +20 offset are perfect. I went to the shop and mounted up a 0 offset and they got way to close to bumper and inner fender. +20 with 37/12.5 are perfect for me. If I had to do the level kit again, I would probably go with a 3 inch. There is still a lot of rake in the truck with a 2 inch level. I'd probably go with the WICKED LEVEL. (google it) they look really nice. A larger level would give you even more room.
This is from Wicked Customs website:
2017 Ford F-250 3.0" Premium Leveling System
Premium System Contents
(2) 3.0" "W" Coil spacers
(1) Track Bar relocation bracket
(2) Radius Arm drop brackets
(2) Front Factory Shock Extensions
(1) Steering stabilizer drop bracket
(1) Grade-8 hardware bag
(1) Brake Line Brackets
What is the difference between the "premium" leveling system and the Leveling System?
The leveling system is an amazing product, but it is designed for the consumer that accepts minor changes in his/her suspension and overall performance. This "Premium" system maintains all factory alignment specs, Axle placement/centering & Factory castor angles using precision designed, bolt in brackets. This premium system in most cases will not void your factory warranty, nor will it effect ride quality or steering comfort at any & all applicable speeds and roads.
What is the biggest improvement with the premium leveling system
Alignment, Simple as that. The alignment is set to factory specifications but with 3.5" of lift. This means you lose nothing in terms of drive-ability, steering, or comfort with this system. Your truck will be just as plush and amazing as it is now, but with our premium system installed.
Tire Recommendations:
35": Factory/10"/12"/14"* wide wheels
37": Factory/10"* wide wheels
*Requires 1" bumper spacer system located in our "Bumper spacer" section
$798.00
2017 FORD F-250 & F-350 3.0" PREMIUM LEVELING SYSTEM - WickedCustoms
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 71
Likes: 3
I'm still trying to understand how you can run a 2" level kit with 37" x 12.50" x 20" tires on a 20" x 9" wheel with +20 offset and not rub.
No one I've spoken to at Level kit or suspension kit companies say that will work.
I'm not doubting you - I want it to be true - I just want to know more about this and be sure you have no rubbing and you didn't do any trimming or bumper extensions, etc.
No one I've spoken to at Level kit or suspension kit companies say that will work.
I'm not doubting you - I want it to be true - I just want to know more about this and be sure you have no rubbing and you didn't do any trimming or bumper extensions, etc.
here is my breakdown:
8” wide = 203.2mm
203.2 / 2 = 101.6mm (0 offset)
101.6 + 40 offset = 141.6mm (from hub to inside rim lip)
———————————————-
9” wide = 228.6mm
228.6 / 2 = 114.3mm (0 offset)
114.3 + 20 offset = 134.3mm (from hub to inside rim lip)
———————————————-
134.3 - 141.6 = -7.3mm offset from stock rim or moves the inside of the tire 0.29” out from the truck more then the original rims.
———————————————-
This makes a lot of sense because EpicCowlick on one of his very informative videos mentioned that a 0.25” wheel spacer on stock rims solved the rub issue. this offset gives a slight bit more then that.