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I guess you did not understand what warning brake light in reference.
Not talking about rear brake lights!
But one small dash warning light, surely would not use a 40amp reset trip relay.
Orich
That was used as an example of the type not the actual one, common sense here. And yes the tail lamps actual and the warning light could be on a fused circuit that would not self reset. Later on when CB's were used both were on the same circuit/CB.
That was used as an example of the type not the actual one, common sense here. And yes the tail lamps actual and the warning light could be on a fused circuit that would not self reset. Later on when CB's were used both were on the same circuit/CB.
Well since you were stating facts from some unknown source with out having posted a link to it. I surely did not want to just assume anything of your post as you seem too know.
I tried looking under the highway transportations vehicle brake wiring codes
but can't find anything as you listed.
Thanks for the additional comments. I plan on inspecting and replacing all of the burned wiring. The ignition switch looks okay.
Don't just look at the ignition switch externally. Unplug the wiring from it and inspect the terminals in the wiring and the switch. Your 71 should have the better blade terminal switch. But I'm suggesting to be over cautious. We are talking electrical fires here. IMHO better to be over cautious. Electrical fires burn Bumpsides. And Bumpside's lives matter.
Don't just look at the ignition switch externally. Unplug the wiring from it and inspect the terminals in the wiring and the switch. Your 71 should have the better blade terminal switch. But I'm suggesting to be over cautious. We are talking electrical fires here. IMHO better to be over cautious. Electrical fires burn Bumpsides. And Bumpside's lives matter.
Yes Sir Mr. Jeff, Fires from melting wires our sure hard to put out if you don't get the battery power disconnected fast.
My 71 had the old pin ign. switch that was a brain teaser for a good number of yrs for those morning first startups.
With out having a wiring diagram for the starting circuit back then.
I was stuck in old skools way of thinking of the resistor blocks way of thinking.
Did not think then of checking voltage in stating cranking mode at the coil.
But did notice weak a spark while in cranking mode which, I never put in enough time to find out why. Always made sure that. I had a good battery to get it started in the morning.
It was not much of a problem of hard starting after adding the big 50k Acell coil as, I new it was a band aided over what I did not know then was a bad ign. switch with low voltage in the cranking mode.
Only when my ign switch key tumblers got so warn out I added a new lock cylinder that still was having trouble of not staying in the on position an shut off while driving from the few keys on my key ring.
So bought a new switch that form a loco NOS seller her in SJ as, I open the box it had a installation sheet and showed a replacement pig tail.
While installing the new pin switch noticed how burnt the plug looked.
So tried to start it on a rainy cold Saturday mid morning an still it almost started but would not.
I returned to where, I had bought the switch an asked do you have the pig tail plug for this switch yep $9for pigtail an $9key cyl.+ $23 for switch for the oem ign so $41 bucks had never been spend better to get my truck up to it's full fast morning starts every time after the new pigtail & pin switch was replaced.
Never wishing this hard starting to happen to me or anyone who may be the next owner be it my son or not. I have since then replaced the whole ign switch with the upgrade flat blade terminal ignition switch. And has been great every since.
Orich
Well since you were stating facts from some unknown source with out having posted a link to it. I surely did not want to just assume anything of your post as you seem too know.
I tried looking under the highway transportations vehicle brake wiring codes
but can't find anything as you listed.
Orich
If I remember right It falls under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards and Regulation and or the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act, And before it was federally mandated it was regulated by individual states in the their motor vehicle acts and regulations. Some of the stuff before being legislated was driven by litigation.
You seem to remember a lot when your telling me this an that of this info.
The Brake system failure dash warning lite only becomes a hot circuit with a little little 2 candle power brake system failure, that has nothing to do with rear brake lights.
If the little dash light had to be connected an hot with out the key on and the brake system had a failure then it would "Keep" the dash warning light on while the ign. switch is in the off position. Running down until the battery is dead.
I'm sure your to trying to make your point! But is only for the vehicles rear brake lights an not tight into the brake failure system light, I am referring to with these bumps classic trucks.
Post your link of this dash light having to be hot whit the ign. switch off.
per my earlier post above. Then, I will cook up so crow for tonight instead of turkey.
Until then it just you pushing your thoughts of may be a later time slot of yesteryear.
I'd think you could at least post of a supplied link to it back you up.
As you broth it up and stated many sources with out proving anything "like zip"
Orich
I inspected all the brake components and brake lines and found a leaking wheel cylinder on the right rear. I decided to replace the wheel cylinders and brake pads on both the left and right rear since it looked like they needed it. I replaced all the burned wiring behind the dash and in the engine compartment. The brakes are great and everything seems to be working properly except after bleeding the front brakes a couple of times the brake warning light on the dash is still on, so the pressure differential valve is still not centered.
You'll have to figure out what circuit (front or rear) the spool is shifted towards and open a bleeder on the opposite circuit to shift the pressure differential valve spool back to center.
Since the rear brakes are the first to be bleed out, there's a very good chance that's the side the spool is shifted towards.
What, I came across back in 1978 is following the book manual my soon found the little slide spool piston wound not shaft to the center positions it did not move any.
So with the brakes stopping an bleed okay, I just left it for like 30 yrs then when replacing all the wheel cyls. shoes an new front drums along with all brake rubber & hard lines. This was when, I tackled brake valve block. CRAP filled the inside of it and had to be cleaned out so it would move.
Orich
Bleeding the brakes is what can cause the value to not be centered. You need to apply enough pressure to the opposite side to center the valve. If you get it centered there is tool to lock the valve while bleeding so this doesn't happen. On the off chance the valve is stuck I'm not sure if it can be un stuck
