R&D lower studs & girdle, epic failure.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
ARP's own directions say to run the stud in hand tight, nothing about backing them back out at all. In fact they say if you loctite them to torque the nuts before the loctite dries. I'd expect the stud would turn itself in the rest of the way while torquing the nut anyways.
It may have been a casting flaw to begin with.
It may have been a casting flaw to begin with.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 7
the problem is that, now, that I have the ARP instructions, even tho the instructions are for a PS, im having a hard time believing that I actually caused it.
I need to chuck up the main caps on the surface grinder and indicate them.
perhaps that cap is flawed.
I need to find the issue before I run the girdle again
don't need another cracked block.
I got a turbo block coming this weekend
and slugs.
I need to chuck up the main caps on the surface grinder and indicate them.
perhaps that cap is flawed.
I need to find the issue before I run the girdle again
don't need another cracked block.
I got a turbo block coming this weekend
and slugs.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
What is the history on this block? Could it have frozen, or had a catastrophic failure at some point? Could the vibration be related via a bent crank (odd wear pattern in main bearings and maybe the rods on either side of bend)?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 7
I have had this engine for about 2 years.
was a remaned block at some point in its life.
it was torn apart after a cracked head issue.
it lived in Cali, very rarely did it see freezing temps.
was a remaned block at some point in its life.
it was torn apart after a cracked head issue.
it lived in Cali, very rarely did it see freezing temps.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 7
everything seemed fine,
I did plastigauge everything.
going through my posts on another forum,
main journals were = to or < .003
thrust was at .003 also.
im just a backyard wrench tho, with some background in machining.
I did plastigauge everything.
going through my posts on another forum,
main journals were = to or < .003
thrust was at .003 also.
im just a backyard wrench tho, with some background in machining.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 7
the bearings were a little discolored due to a round of coolant and water being in the oil. no scaring on the crank journals.
other than that, all bearings were in tact.
if I get out to the shop today, ill take a mic to that journal, hit it in a few places and see if its jacked,
other than that, all bearings were in tact.
if I get out to the shop today, ill take a mic to that journal, hit it in a few places and see if its jacked,
New User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Belton
I'm new to the IDI motor, but I have seen this same thing happen in a 302 block. The block was total blue printed port and polished. The ARP bolts for the head where torque in sequence. We ran it through the broken end process. The next day we were setting up on the dyno pull. We started the motor it ran fine just as we applied power we heard a noise and something was wrong. We had two head studs loosen and crack the block between to cylinders. They figure our what happen, and it was that they used oil to lube the bolts before putting them in. They said the oil had gotten hot and during the cool down it had cracked. This was a very expensive break this block was intended for drag racing.
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