Grille restoration

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Nov 15, 2016 | 11:24 AM

DoggedTired

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: Oct 2014

Posts: 34

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From: St. Louis, MO

Grille restoration

I picked up a '61 grille that I want to put on my truck. Overall it is in really nice shape but has some pitting and a some pin holes, well slightly bigger than pin holes. What is the best way to restore this? I don't think it will ever be a show quality grille but I would like it to be a really nice driver grille.

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Nov 15, 2016 | 11:32 AM

NumberDummy

Ford Parts Specialist

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 88,826

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From: Simi Valley, CA

1961: Standard Cabs have a painted steel grille, Custom Cabs have a chromed steel grille.

Nov 15, 2016 | 01:31 PM

TA455HO

Lead Gopher

Joined: Aug 2012

Posts: 10,043

Likes: 1,595

From: Seattle

I'd say either back it up with a copper plate and weld it with a MIG on low settings so you don't burn it up too much and grind it gently and slowly

AND/OR

use some USC All-Metal which is a filler that works directly on metal and looks about like metal once it hardens.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...%20all%20metal

You can read the reviews on Amazon. Biggest complaint is it can't be powdercoated.

https://www.amazon.com/14060-All-Met.../dp/B0082LFAI6

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Nov 18, 2016 | 03:26 PM

Jeff64F100CrewCab

Senior User

Joined: Dec 2011

Posts: 157

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It could be metal sprayed like this shop in Sacramento does:
American Stripping Company INC. Metal Spray

Nov 20, 2016 | 01:32 PM

graybubba

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Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 18

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Grill restoration

I had the same issue with my 1964 F100 grill. First I tried gas welding the perforations. Didn't work well at all- the metal had become too thin and would therefore burn through in some places without patching the hole. Best method I tried was sand-blasting both sides of the area, primering with epoxy, applying a fiberglass patch to the backside of the perforated area and then filling the front side with a good body filler. I finish-sanded to 600 grit and finally finished with urethane and topcoat to the desired color. That process seems to work pretty well where both sides of the affected area are accessible for treatment.

Good luck with whatever method you try.

Nov 20, 2016 | 03:41 PM

Mattrod68

Tuned

Joined: Apr 2011

Posts: 346

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From: Salinas

all metal is a qualit product i would use that or have someone braze fill it

Nov 22, 2016 | 12:25 PM

TA455HO

Lead Gopher

Joined: Aug 2012

Posts: 10,043

Likes: 1,595

From: Seattle

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mattrod68

all metal is a qualit product i would use that or have someone braze fill it

I love All-Metal. If I'm not sandblasting then first I pass a file through the hole to roughen the edges slightly and remove any rust. Then I back up the holes with tape and apply a layer or two on top making sure not to build it up too thick. I've filled 1" round holes in 16 gauge sheetmetal that were cut for a trailer plug, for example, and afterward tried fairly hard to push the thin plug out with my thumb and it was solid. Can't do that with most other fillers like Bondo. If you build it up too thick you can cheese grate it like bondo while it is still not set. But, once it is set it is just about as strong as metal. Get out the sanders or grinders to shape it then. I like it because if you are working next to paint on the same panel there is no risk of burning the paint like when welding.

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