The E4OD in my new beater E-350 has seen better days.

The PO told me it has a "reverse issue", especially when hot (i.e., reverse does not want to work).

When it's been sitting overnight reverse works normally, but if it's even slightly warmed up, you can put it in reverse and nothing happens. If you give it a little gas, it revs then BANG goes into reverse.

Fluid is dark and smells burned. Because of that I'm assuming it's not something as simple as MLPS, TRS, or filter having come loose.

So assuming it needs a rebuild, I'm curious how difficult a job it is to swap an E4OD on these things. This is behind a 5.8L. I've heard they're pretty heavy, but I've got a transmission jack.

I figure I can find an under-150k E4OD for $500, which for a beater van isn't too bad. I'd rather do that than spend $2k+ to rebuild this one.

 

It's pretty straightforward to swap. There isn't anything really unique. It does weigh about 270 pounds.

 

Okay. I figured it wouldn't be too difficult, especially with no transfer case to deal with, etc.

As far as rebuilding an E4OD myself -- and taking into account I've never rebuilt a transmission before but have rebuilt engines -- how feasible would you say that is? Are there specialized tools I would need to purchase, or just a rebuild kit and standard tools (and of course a very clean, well-lit area to work)?

 

It can be done with standard tools, but it can be a struggle without a way to press the clutches together enough to seat the snap rings. Get a really good manual. You can get one at https://www.atsg.us/atsg/

 

Thanks, I'll look into those.

 

Many moons ago I took the plunge into rebuilding the C-6 in my Impala eating Galaxie. I bought a "Motor's Transmission Manual" which covered about 10 trannies in detail. It was about $125 back then. Like Mark said, there are a few sub assemblies such as clutch packs that will go easier with a press or at minimum a helper with improvised tooling but you can certainly do it. I went through 3 different C-6's and a C-4 and they all worked fine.I had a friendly shop clean my cases and wash/agitate the converters for me.

 

Why not just flush out the old ATF and replace the trans filter and see if that fixes it?

 

I probably will do just that. In my experience, though, that rarely fixes problems like these and can often make things worse. However, all I've got to lose is the cost of four gallons of ATF and a filter kit, and an hour or two of my time.

 

Because it will not fix it.

 

Idk man, it's worth a shot.
Say if that's the original ATF or if it's the wrong kind (my C6 had type F in it and it shifted like crap when I first got it) after I did a flush it shifts soo much better now.

 

not the same issue

 

That indicates a damaged clutch.

After changing the fluid and filter it is almost guaranteed that this trans will fail. On the other hand, if you don't change the fluid and filter it is almost guaranteed that this trans will fail. Your call.

 

To take it further, pretty much any transmission is going to fail at some point. It's just a question of how long you can push it with good maintenance.

As far as I'm concerned, this one has already failed. That's why I was able to get the van for $300. No big deal, I'm not unhappy about it, since I knew what I was getting into. After all, I trailered the van home since the PO advised me not to drive it (he seemed to recall reading somewhere that driving it in this condition could cause further damage).

On second thought, I think I'll just save the $70 on four gallons of ATF and a filter kit for now, and use that to give whatever replacement trans I find a drain-and-fill treatment. Doesn't seem like there's much to be gained from doing it now.

 

My Jeep's tranny was fixed with fresh fluid but it seems like the Ford stuff doesn't have a similar hope. Any particular reason why? I figured the XJ stuff is so light duty its not really slipping that bad, and vans are heavy etc.

 

Kind of related...I had a 4WD Bronco ( classic OJ model ) transmission catch fire twice