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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 08:59 PM
  #1  
sobconners's Avatar
sobconners
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Transmission Options

I have a 1968 ford 250 camper special.

We're about to replace the 360 with a 390. Rear end is 4.10s

Transmission is a NP435 4 speed manual transmission.

I'm looking for options to improve some highway cruising and mid range towing.

I looked at the gear vendor add on which would be perfect if it didnt cost $3000.

Other options?

Rich
 
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 09:12 PM
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A Tremec TKO-500.. fifth gear is 0.68 and with your 4.11 rear gear would put the final drive ratio at 2.79... PERFECT for highway cruising.

I ordered my TKO from Modern Driveline and spec'ed a shortened Ford input shaft so no adapter plate was needed and it bolted straight to where the NP435 was. The stock linkage stays stock. The Tremec is about an inch longer than a C6. You'll need to move the trans crossmember back about one-inch and use the coupling shaft from a C6-equipped long bed.

In 2013, my total cost was $2800 which included a new clutch package, reverse pigtail, trans mount isolator, Hurst shift arm, white 5-speed shift ball, Hurst shift boot and bezel, pilot bushing... and like three bottles of Dexron III ATF.

A five-speed is waaay better than a GVO unit behind a manual transmission. No buttons to engage or disengage.... Just shift and drive like normal.

For more info, read through my 70's build thread linked in my signature.

Oh... welcome to FTE.

.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 10:20 PM
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One of the reasons I thought a GVO unit might be better is I've often found I wanted a 3.5 gear.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 05:49 PM
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Mike in Ohio
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
A Tremec TKO-500.. fifth gear is 0.68 and with your 4.11 rear gear would put the final drive ratio at 2.79... PERFECT for highway cruising.

I ordered my TKO from Modern Driveline and spec'ed a shortened Ford input shaft so no adapter plate was needed and it bolted straight to where the NP435 was. The stock linkage stays stock. The Tremec is about an inch longer than a C6. You'll need to move the trans crossmember back about one-inch and use the coupling shaft from a C6-equipped long bed.

In 2013, my total cost was $2800 which included a new clutch package, reverse pigtail, trans mount isolator, Hurst shift arm, white 5-speed shift ball, Hurst shift boot and bezel, pilot bushing... and like three bottles of Dexron III ATF.

A five-speed is waaay better than a GVO unit behind a manual transmission. No buttons to engage or disengage.... Just shift and drive like normal.

For more info, read through my 70's build thread linked in my signature.

Oh... welcome to FTE.

.
Was yours originally a manual truck, I have a 69 with a 460 and a c6 and was thinking of swapping in a ZF but am wondering about the trans tunnel. Body work is far from my strong suit.

Did you have any clearance issues with Tremec? How would it be for occasional towing?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 06:27 PM
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Biggest Problem is your FE engine. Transmission options are very limited.

Hio silvers recommendation of the TKO-500 is probably the best option for you.

The way many of us say it is, you can either spend money on a transmission, or spend money on an adapter kit. Either way, you're not getting out of the spending money part...
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 06:40 PM
  #6  
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HIO Silver
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by Mike in Ohio
Was yours originally a manual truck, I have a 69 with a 460 and a c6 and was thinking of swapping in a ZF but am wondering about the trans tunnel. Body work is far from my strong suit.

Did you have any clearance issues with Tremec? How would it be for occasional towing?
No clearance issues with a TKO. Fits perfect and is a bolt on if ya follow my recommendations above.

I don't tow with my 70... but a 3.27 first gear and a 3.89 or 4.11rear gear is what you'll want to get the RPM in the sweet spots.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 07:10 PM
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I tow fairly heavy (4,000lbs+) fairly often (several times a month) and I can say that the 4.11 diff gears are the best towing modification ive done to the truck.

I have a 2.40 first gear ratio( automatic) and it could definitely be lower. So a 3.27 in the TKO should be pretty darn good. Low enough to get going, but high enough to be useable.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 07:19 PM
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NV4500 is another option...
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 08:11 PM
  #9  
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck
NV4500 is another option...
Ah yes! I forgot about that one. Our good man Orich has one in his truck if I remember right...
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
No clearance issues with a TKO. Fits perfect and is a bolt on if ya follow my recommendations above.

I don't tow with my 70... but a 3.27 first gear and a 3.89 or 4.11rear gear is what you'll want to get the RPM in the sweet spots.
I think my rear end is a 3.63.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike in Ohio
I think my rear end is a 3.63.
I doubt it is 3.63 but should be close (3.54ish maybe?).

I prefer to gear my rear end to where I want my overall ratio and then gear the tranny/t-case down for whatever first gear ratio I want. That way you don't have to have the parasitic loss from O/D.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 09:20 PM
  #12  
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
Originally Posted by 1972RedNeck
I doubt it is 3.63 but should be close (3.54ish maybe?).

I prefer to gear my rear end to where I want my overall ratio and then gear the tranny/t-case down for whatever first gear ratio I want. That way you don't have to have the parasitic loss from O/D.
It's null either way. You end up with the same final. It just moves the point of stress. Gear the axles lower and the transmission higher. Takes stress out of the ujoints/ driveshaft/ transmission.

3:1 is 3:1 no matter how you get there....
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 351Cleveland C4
It's null either way. You end up with the same final. It just moves the point of stress. Gear the axles lower and the transmission higher. Takes stress out of the ujoints/ driveshaft/ transmission.

3:1 is 3:1 no matter how you get there....
Overdrive takes more power than a higher rear end gear. It's not much of a difference, but there is a difference.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 10:10 PM
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From: On the Edge of the Desert
And the lower rear gear makes up the difference.

It's math, it don't change....
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 10:14 PM
  #15  
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I understand what you're getting at though.

Yes, there is less torque coming off the tailshaft with an overdrive gear, but a lower gear takes less torque to produce the required wheel torque.

Lower transmission gear, more torque, higher axle gear, requires more torque....


You end up with the same thing in the end.


However, it has been my experience that a lower rear gear and higher trans gearing works better. I've had it both ways, and lower axle gears just work better for me. Even having a higher overall ratio....
 
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