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I noticed the water pump has one bolt that goes into the water jacket, and it's different than the other 3. At first I thought someone had simply grabbed a bolt that was handy, but again this was just another little indicator that this was a low mileage engine that has never been apart save for a previous attempt to fix the intake manifold leak.
Does anyone know what the reasoning is behind this bolt being different? The other 3 bolts are clear zinc plated with a ridge around the perimeter and an "F" in the center. This bolt has the 3 grade 5 hashes and an "N" in the center. It appears it was also phosphate coated rather than zinc.
Another constant frustration I have is there is no consistency in what "Ford Corporate Blue" is. I have a pristine snorkel I use for comparison purposes and I've had a tough time finding a close match. I'm not seeking perfection, but if I can tell at a glance it's not right, it's hard to accept it. I think the paint darkens over time from heat cycling and perhaps that's where this "Dark Ford Blue" color comes from, but I have found no documentation indicating there were ever 2 different Ford Corporate Blue colors.
I've got all the parts now to start putting things back together, so hopefully I can start posting some pics soon.
The PPG code for the corporate blue is DAR 13358 for an acrylic and DDL 13358 for a lacquer. Google it and you will get a couple of hits on it. That's if you are using a spray gun.
I bought NPD's version of 13358 in a rattle can and it looks way too dark to me, and also a little too purple. The blue in your pics is very close to what is in the rattle can, but that is much darker than the color of old breathers and snorkles I have with original paint.
I decided to go with Dupli-color "Old Ford Blue". It is very close to the original paint I have samples of and unless you hold them side by side in the sunlight you can't tell a difference.
I noticed the water pump has one bolt that goes into the water jacket, and it's different than the other 3. At first I thought someone had simply grabbed a bolt that was handy, but again this was just another little indicator that this was a low mileage engine that has never been apart save for a previous attempt to fix the intake manifold leak.
Does anyone know what the reasoning is behind this bolt being different? The other 3 bolts are clear zinc plated with a ridge around the perimeter and an "F" in the center. This bolt has the 3 grade 5 hashes and an "N" in the center. It appears it was also phosphate coated rather than zinc.
1) 42999-S .. Bolt-Water Pump to Block / 3/8" -16 x 1 1/8" long.
OK, thanks ND. I hadn't noticed that they weren't all the same length (and you didn't say whether the 3 are shorter or longer than the odd bolt out), but I still don't understand why. When I get home I'll look to see if the 3 blind holes need a slightly shorter bolt to prevent bottoming out.
I bought NPD's version of 13358 in a rattle can and it looks way too dark to me, and also a little too purple. The blue in your pics is very close to what is in the rattle can, but that is much darker than the color of old breathers and snorkles I have with original paint.
I decided to go with Dupli-color "Old Ford Blue". It is very close to the original paint I have samples of and unless you hold them side by side in the sunlight you can't tell a difference.
My garage is a cave this time of year. The pics do make it look a little dark. Let me bring some light on the subject. It's actually quite a bit lighter than it looks in those first pics. The nice thing about mixing your own is you can control the sheen with some flattening agent. And, of course, it's catalyzed so it should hold up better.