Electrical help needed- Fuel selector switch
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Electrical help needed- Fuel selector switch
So i picked up an awesome 300 6 carb'd F 150
The previous owners were carpenters and not mechanics by any means! This truck sat for 15 years and I am gonna use it as a dirt bike hauler....
But the problem I need help with is that I need a fuel gauge. The previous owners diked ALL but one wire on the back connector. I have searched for the wiring diagram and cannot find the one that I need-
I have a pyramid 5 pin connector- Couple colors are Red, brown, Yellow (that one is still connected
I cannot located the diagram for the 5 pin. This is for the dual tank selector switch (Which I am assuming just swapped the gauge reading since I have a manual selector under the driver seat.)
The previous owners were carpenters and not mechanics by any means! This truck sat for 15 years and I am gonna use it as a dirt bike hauler....
But the problem I need help with is that I need a fuel gauge. The previous owners diked ALL but one wire on the back connector. I have searched for the wiring diagram and cannot find the one that I need-
I have a pyramid 5 pin connector- Couple colors are Red, brown, Yellow (that one is still connected
I cannot located the diagram for the 5 pin. This is for the dual tank selector switch (Which I am assuming just swapped the gauge reading since I have a manual selector under the driver seat.)
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
1st welcome to the forum
2nd we need a little more from you to help you like what year is your truck as the wiring can change between years.
That stock switch you are talking about if the one on the dash besides flipping the sending units in each tank to work the fuel gauge it also should move a valve on the inside of the frame by the tanks to let fuel be pulled from 1 tank or the other.
From the sounds of it the selector valve on the frame stopped working so the PO added the manual valve under the seat and did not bother with the sending units to send the tank level to the gauge.
If you pull the sending unit wire from each tank and ground it, key on and see if the gauge moves to full. Ground 1 wire at a time and flip the switch between wire grounding so you know if the switch & wiring are working.
Dave ----
2nd we need a little more from you to help you like what year is your truck as the wiring can change between years.
That stock switch you are talking about if the one on the dash besides flipping the sending units in each tank to work the fuel gauge it also should move a valve on the inside of the frame by the tanks to let fuel be pulled from 1 tank or the other.
From the sounds of it the selector valve on the frame stopped working so the PO added the manual valve under the seat and did not bother with the sending units to send the tank level to the gauge.
If you pull the sending unit wire from each tank and ground it, key on and see if the gauge moves to full. Ground 1 wire at a time and flip the switch between wire grounding so you know if the switch & wiring are working.
Dave ----
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It is a 1985 Early one- Single Barrel YF, Emissions removed.
The switch is the one on the heater panel to the farthest right. I would not be surprised one bit if he added a manual selector.
So on the backside of that selector- I have 5 pins- ALL wires are cut clean except yellow on that feeds back to harness so I am not sure grounding them out would help. I bet there is no power going to the float in the tank.
The switch is the one on the heater panel to the farthest right. I would not be surprised one bit if he added a manual selector.
So on the backside of that selector- I have 5 pins- ALL wires are cut clean except yellow on that feeds back to harness so I am not sure grounding them out would help. I bet there is no power going to the float in the tank.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
With out the 85 wiring diagram it is hard to say but most of the time the yellow wire is the fuel gauge wire.
So give the sending wire(s) a ground and flip the switch to see if the gauge works.
The other thing you can do is use a test light on the sender wires at the tanks. With the test light on the wire(s) 1 at a time and flipping switches between them, the test light should blink if the switch is sending power to the sender.
Dave ----
So give the sending wire(s) a ground and flip the switch to see if the gauge works.
The other thing you can do is use a test light on the sender wires at the tanks. With the test light on the wire(s) 1 at a time and flipping switches between them, the test light should blink if the switch is sending power to the sender.
Dave ----
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I think @85lebaront2 might have the wiring diagrams (or EVTM) for the 1985/86, I shall ping him and maybe he'll chime in.
"Emissions removed" might very well freak out the computer (yes, this is a computer-controlled engine) resulting in the ignition timing not advancing, resulting in spectacularly lame engine performance. The computer has nothing to do with the dash gauges or tank selector, just saying you might be woefully underimpressed with the performance of this thing.
"Emissions removed" might very well freak out the computer (yes, this is a computer-controlled engine) resulting in the ignition timing not advancing, resulting in spectacularly lame engine performance. The computer has nothing to do with the dash gauges or tank selector, just saying you might be woefully underimpressed with the performance of this thing.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
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From: Exmore, VA
I have the 86 EVTM on my google drive here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...3gyTUVzSDYxTFU
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...3gyTUVzSDYxTFU
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New User
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Thank you for that link. That wiring diagram matches what I have inside mine with colors. Now hopefully I can get a working gas gauge here soon!!!
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Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Exmore, VA
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