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2008 E250 fuel filter leaking at connector

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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 09:49 PM
  #1  
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2008 E250 fuel filter leaking at connector

Sorry if this seems like a noob question, I'm only new to Ford.

I noticed fuel dripping from the inlet side connector of the fuel filter - is there an o-ring or something I should pick up before I go to change out the filter or will I need to get the line replaced? I can drive it to a shop now if I have to but I'm concerned if something's damaged I won't get it driveable and I'll have to have it towed.

 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 11:45 PM
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It looks like the connector is not all the way in. The fuel line should be aligned with the filter neck. Remove the clip and try to push the connector all the way in.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 08:01 AM
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I see that now - I wonder if someone tried to disconnect it to get at fuel. I found a cut evap line on top of the fuel tank the other day so I know someone's been under it.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 09:20 AM
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I was looking at this last night late on my phone, and could not tell. But I agree that is BENT< or pulled out for sure. The connection is not correct at best. Find fuel pump relay disconnect it, crank van over so it does not start a few times, and then see if you can push fitting on. DO NOT FORCE it. IN the case that its BENT inside the fitting you are going to have to carefully work on removing that fitting from the filter and check the integrity of the connector.
It may be as simple as NOT seated but it does not look correct
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 10:25 PM
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Thanks for the reply, so back to my original question, if it's damaged and I can't get it back on right, what am I going to need to repair it or is it something beyond fixing with a pair of ramps and a floor creeper? I'd rather not mess with it and make it undriveable.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by CWR032
I'd rather not mess with it and make it undriveable.
Leaking pressurized fuel = undriveable. People die.

Park that thing until you fix it.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 11:05 AM
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So how do I repair it if I can't push it back locked and straight?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 03:50 PM
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take it apart and replace the faulty parts as needed
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by vettex2
take it apart and replace the faulty parts as needed
If it were that simple I wouldn't be asking these questions.

Recap: I need to fix this myself if I can, I don't know what I'll run into if I break the fitting at the filter or what I'll need to do if that happens. If anyone has helpful comments on this issue I'd appreciate it.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 08:15 PM
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The way it is right now you can not go anywhere. As pressure builds up, chances are that the connector will unplug and you will be spraying gas all over the place. Engine will shut as no gas will arrive.

Do as explained above, relieve pressure in the system, buy a new filter and a filter fitting tool and replace the filter. If that fix it, great. If not, the connector is damaged and you need to replace it. That connector is crimped to flex hose that is crimped to a rigid line. It looks like a pain to replace since is a single long assembly. It seems that there are repair kits at the regular auto parts stores.

From this post update-on-fuel-line-quick-connect-repair :

I talked to several Ford and Mazda dealers in my area and they all stated they too have used the quick connect repair kits and it was one of them who gave me a hint on what to do. These kits are available at Pep Boys, NAPA and other places. They come with a replacement quick connect fitting attached to a length of fuel line and a barb for connecting the two fuel lines - your old one you cut and the new one. No clamps are included, the barb is supposed to hold. I cut my old line and spliced it but the line leaked at both sides of the barb. With the leak I parked the vehicle. I was not about to drive a car with a leaking fuel line. One dealer told me he has used the kits and he too had the leaking problem. He found the barb was too small for the existing Ford/Mazda 5/16 fuel line and suggested I go to a home improvement store and get a 5/16" i.d. barb fitting that is slightly larger than the supplied barb. I did. This barb was much harder to install. You have to heat the tubing (both the supplied tubing and that on the vehicle) in hot water to soften but once the barb went on and the tubing cooled it was tight and there is no removal. For added protection I installed high pressure fuel rail clamps. This splice is just as secure and strong as any other fuel connection on the vehicle.

These quick connect repair kits work but make sure the barb you use is large enough to hold. As I found, the ones supplied are not.

Although this fix appears to be working fine, with all the bending and flexing I did on the existing fuel line on my truck, I do plan to replace the line from the tank to the fuel filter with a new one. I've ordered one from the dealer ($90) and my next question is do I pull the bed or drop the tank to install it. I'm just afraid I may have weaked the existing flexible line by bending it and it could burst sometime.
This is a high pressure (highish, it is not a DI engine) and connecting the kit to the existing line will be critical.

Google is your friend.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by CWR032
If it were that simple I wouldn't be asking these questions.

Recap: I need to fix this myself if I can, I don't know what I'll run into if I break the fitting at the filter or what I'll need to do if that happens. If anyone has helpful comments on this issue I'd appreciate it.
here's the deal: YOU have to take it apart and look at it.
you have the info. Now you must actually do something. If it's broke, you need to fix it
no one on any board is going to fix it for you
if you can't handle it, tow it to a mechanic

you seem paralyzed by analysis
 
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by GreeVan
Do as explained above, relieve pressure in the system, buy a new filter and a filter fitting tool and replace the filter. If that fix it, great. If not, the connector is damaged and you need to replace it. That connector is crimped to flex hose that is crimped to a rigid line. It looks like a pain to replace since is a single long assembly. It seems that there are repair kits at the regular auto parts stores.
Thanks, this is exactly the type of knowlegeable reply I was looking for. I did plan on replacing the filter but I wanted to know what to plan for in case I can't get it back together. And I did Google for quite a while before I came here and asked, it never would have occurred to me to look for a repair kit for a crimped line, that's something I can have on hand to get done in one try without worrying about disabling the vehicle.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by vettex2
here's the deal: YOU have to take it apart and look at it.
you have the info. Now you must actually do something. If it's broke, you need to fix it
no one on any board is going to fix it for you
if you can't handle it, tow it to a mechanic

you seem paralyzed by analysis
I'll explain the issue once more before I block you (Gratz on being my first block here, btw) since your reading comprehension prevents your understanding of the issue as I have described.

You seem to think I want to have my hand held through this; I'm just trying to be prepared before I tackle it so I can move the vehicle or drive it up on my ramps or (worst case scenario) take it a short distance to a mechanic if I decide it's something I can't handle. I did not want to take it apart and look at it without being prepared, which I feel I can do now no thanks to you.

And it's none of your business if I decide to drive it.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 08:37 AM
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OH MY !
Go ahead and drive it.
I stand by what I said.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2016 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CWR032
I'll explain the issue once more before I block you (Gratz on being my first block here, btw) since your reading comprehension prevents your understanding of the issue as I have described.

You seem to think I want to have my hand held through this; I'm just trying to be prepared before I tackle it so I can move the vehicle or drive it up on my ramps or (worst case scenario) take it a short distance to a mechanic if I decide it's something I can't handle. I did not want to take it apart and look at it without being prepared, which I feel I can do now no thanks to you.

And it's none of your business if I decide to drive it.

WOW...........

With posts like this, I'm glad my day job has kept me busy (and out of town) and off this board

didn't realize that vettex has done more wrenching than studying 'Reading Comprehension' like a lot of us have been there, done that.

Here one for ya Vettex to drown your sorrows.
 
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