Over Heating Engine.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 345
Likes: 23
From: WACO
Over Heating Engine.
1953 original 215 CID. Completely rebuilt. Probably got about 3000 miles on it. 160 degree thermostat. Never run above 170 even on hot days. Radiator clean when restored. Then it started running hot. I don't drive it very much. Always keep 50/50 coolant/water in it. Pulled radiator. Shop "boiled" it out. Took for a ride. Didn't help. Had to pull over and let it cool off before getting home. 212* I run a coolant flush and flushed radiator several times. Installed new 160 degree thermostat. Temp still ran up to 190* with ambient temp in the mid eighties. Got home and let it idle for several minutes. Temp climbed up to 200* Only simple thing I haven't done is replace radiator cap. Hoping/thinking it shouldn't be head gasket or head. Or it would still running up to 212* at highway speed.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 345
Likes: 23
From: WACO
Yes. No. Yes. Yes. Thanks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,074
Likes: 101
From: Marana, Arizona
Is this just a sudden occurrence?
If radiator has been rodded out (not just flushed), water pump good, belt not slipping, shroud in place, good T-stat maybe its a gauge or wiring problem.
Is it boiling over or just a high gauge reading?
If radiator has been rodded out (not just flushed), water pump good, belt not slipping, shroud in place, good T-stat maybe its a gauge or wiring problem.
Is it boiling over or just a high gauge reading?
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,514
Likes: 398
From: W. Central FL.
What 49r said /\. Check temperatures with an infrared thermometer. Check temperatures at the thermostat housing, top of radiator, and various places along the radiator top to bottom. Post results.
Edit: Is the heat riser opening?
Edit: Is the heat riser opening?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 345
Likes: 23
From: WACO
Themostat is installed correctly. Definitely over heating. No gauge malfunction. Using after market mechanical gauges. When I had to pull over to let it cool off. Radiator was gurgling and puking coolant out of over flow tube.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
If there is cleaning solution residue in the system (detergents, acids, whatever) it can cause foaming, lack of heat transfer, etc. Try a good clean water flush and refill.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey Woodsmoke,
Good to see a member from Waco on here. Nice truck... I'm up in Waco weekly visiting my kids. I'll keep an eye out for you.
You may want to PM Mike who is up in Stephenville - he just finished his
truck & he may have some thoughts for you. A link to his thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...road-trip.html
I don't have the same engine set up you have... but I had an overheating problem (common in Texas).
I tried a cooler thermostat, new radiator fluid etc. Our's came down to (2) basic issues:
1) Timing - If your timing is off or your carb. is running lean it can cause you to run hot. I'd make
sure you check both the timing & the carb.
2) Air Flow - We were running north of 210 degrees - I wasn't comfortable. So... I tried everything
& finally we gave up & went for maximum Air Flow. We picked up a big 18 inch Mark VIII style 2 speed
electric fan (V8 Thunderbird). Cruising at 180 degrees now.
Good luck up there in Waco.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
(160 degree thermostat isn't going to do the trick - thermostat just opens sooner but the engine will still go straight to it's normal operating temp. Id run what ever the stock thermostat is for the engine).
Good to see a member from Waco on here. Nice truck... I'm up in Waco weekly visiting my kids. I'll keep an eye out for you.
You may want to PM Mike who is up in Stephenville - he just finished his
truck & he may have some thoughts for you. A link to his thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...road-trip.html
I don't have the same engine set up you have... but I had an overheating problem (common in Texas).
I tried a cooler thermostat, new radiator fluid etc. Our's came down to (2) basic issues:
1) Timing - If your timing is off or your carb. is running lean it can cause you to run hot. I'd make
sure you check both the timing & the carb.
2) Air Flow - We were running north of 210 degrees - I wasn't comfortable. So... I tried everything
& finally we gave up & went for maximum Air Flow. We picked up a big 18 inch Mark VIII style 2 speed
electric fan (V8 Thunderbird). Cruising at 180 degrees now.
Good luck up there in Waco.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD)
(160 degree thermostat isn't going to do the trick - thermostat just opens sooner but the engine will still go straight to it's normal operating temp. Id run what ever the stock thermostat is for the engine).
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,074
Likes: 101
From: Marana, Arizona
3000 miles of being OK, and now all of a sudden its over heating? You confirmed you definitely have a clean radiator and have plenty of air flow through it. That leaves coolant flow.
You have a new T-stat, water pump, belts and good coolant. Gauges are good. I would verify flow. Not sure about this engine but, I have seen water pumps have impellers fall off. I have seen bottom hoses suck shut at higher revs. Head gasket or casting crack can put compression in cooling system blowing coolant out too.
Good luck and please let us all know what you end up finding. I hope it doesn't get too expensive for you.
You have a new T-stat, water pump, belts and good coolant. Gauges are good. I would verify flow. Not sure about this engine but, I have seen water pumps have impellers fall off. I have seen bottom hoses suck shut at higher revs. Head gasket or casting crack can put compression in cooling system blowing coolant out too.
Good luck and please let us all know what you end up finding. I hope it doesn't get too expensive for you.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 815
Likes: 29
From: Richland, WA.
Just a thought have you checked the hoses? I've seen them swell up on the inside and cause restricted flow. Can you put a pressure tester on the radiator and see what pressure it gets to. We have all seen head gaskets let loose to water jackets and leave oil unscathed. If all seemed good, I'd maybe try back flushing through the heater hoses. You didn't get some of the funky Dexcool coolant in there did you???
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: Stephenville Tx.
was the block vatted? If not there could be some rust scale blocking some holes an causing it to run hot. I popped the back bottom freeze plugs on my 302 and flushed it out the best I could before installing my new radiator. If the old radiator has been rodded and cleaned it should be working good. I think I would do the same stated above and check flow. Lots of bubbling would or could be a sign of a head gasket problem. You can also turn the heater on and see if that wont help cool it down a little. I think I would order or purchase a new water pump gasket and pull it off and check it out. Whats that the pressure on the cap 5# ??
good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
mike
good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
mike
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 815
Likes: 29
From: Richland, WA.
Fordf348. to answer your question that. Rodded out is when the radiator shop removes the tanks from the radiator, be them like on my 54 would be top and at least and hopefully bottom and then run a rod like a welding rod down through the cooling fin. this will remove scale and other build ups reducing flow as well as cooling ability. then they are done they resolder the tank and check for leaks.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,074
Likes: 101
From: Marana, Arizona
Kurt nailed it. I have seen plenty of radiators that were flushed with acid or various cleaners that "look" brand new inside. After flushing mine the brass inside looked new.
The tubes typically plug up down lower. Unless the tanks are removed and a cleaning rod pushed through each tube, it will not be clean.
My 4 row brass core had a tag showing it was last serviced in 1996. It looked clean and my engine did not run hot here in Tucson. I had it rodded out because the cooling system was NASTY before I cleaned it out. The shop told me the radiator was in great shape but 50 or 60% of the tubes were plugged.
The tubes typically plug up down lower. Unless the tanks are removed and a cleaning rod pushed through each tube, it will not be clean.
My 4 row brass core had a tag showing it was last serviced in 1996. It looked clean and my engine did not run hot here in Tucson. I had it rodded out because the cooling system was NASTY before I cleaned it out. The shop told me the radiator was in great shape but 50 or 60% of the tubes were plugged.
