Hello. My truck in my signature had a lift on it when I purchased it and I'm not sure how much of a lift it is. I purchased a 5th wheel camper and my truck is too high to tow it properly so I am looking to lower it to help with better 5th wheel and gooseneck towing. I will also be going down a tire size from a 315 to a 285. I am concidering going with X Code springs from Ford. I was wondering if anyone has a truck with a fairly new set of Ford XCode springs that could get a measurement form the axle to the frame to show what the ride height is. A pic of the points that you are measuring from would be great also if possable. I don't want to lower my truck more than needed so knowing what the ride height will be before hand would be great. If needed what it the best method of providing a little more height than the X Codes will provide? Thanks in advance for any help or opinions.

 

bump to the top.

 

4 1/2" to the bump stops. I had the crappy stock springs with split leaves, and they sagged something fierce. I was at 2 1/2" from the bump stops. Cody surveyed a bunch of 7.3Ls in his shop, and the noses on all those 4X4s averaged about 4" to 4 1/2" from the bump stops.

 

Thanks for the info and pictures. I went out to my truck and I have a little over 7" between the bump stops and where they hit. It sounds like if I went with the X Code springs I would be lowering my truck approximately 2.5". 1" lower with the smaller tires and 2.5" with the springs will give me 3.5" total drop in height. That height height should work out good with my 5th wheel camper and my gooseneck trailer. Now I am going to need to find a factory original track bar bracket and a factory pitman arm as my truck has a drop track bar bracket and a drop pitman arm.

 

While reading this, one thing is a little fuzzy: I'm referring to the front of the truck, but I'm unsure where you are with front vs. rear.

 

I am talking about the front of the truck in this post. I guess I left out that I will be lowering the rear by adjusting the height of my rear block the same amount as whatever my front winds up being lowered. In the rear I made custom lift blocks with traction bar mounts built into the block to stop the axle wrap I was having. I will be cutting down the blocks in the rear to match the front after it is done. If it turns out as it seems I will be cutting the rear blocks 2-2.5" shorter. I currently have OEM Ford C Code springs for a F350 Dually in the rear.

 

It sounds to me like you'll end up at stock 350 height in the rear. I'll be acquiring the OUO traction bars with the F350 4" blocks to move my 250 into 350 mode. [OUO Traction Block & Traction Bar - Riffraff Diesel Performance]

I already have traction bars but they are the wrong type. Few believe me when I tell them axle wrap is an issue with these trucks, but those who have installed traction bars know what a huge help they are.

It sounds like you and I are shooting for the same goal - prepping our trucks for a 5er, but we're going at it from opposite directions.

 

My traction bar/block setup idea is similar to the link you posted. Between the heavier duty C Code springs and the traction bar setup I made I get absolutely no axle wrap or wheel hop when I mash the skinny pedal and unleash my 400+ horsepower with my 315-75-16 tires I am currently running. Before my traction bars with my wider tires, the axle wrap was bad enough to break 2 leaf springs.